wgfv dead....or no power feed

[andyg plym]

almost managed to sort out my boost problems now and at least i have mechanical boost back, ive tried 2 wgfv and neither work,or at least no power to them. it used to clickity click all te time which reading old posts is normal, but now neither do anything.
already checked fuses,inspected and cleaned wires,but nothing.
dont have a multimetre to check resistance etc, so any other way i can check power to it?

[andyg plym]

anyone?

[AndyP]

12v bulb and a couple of wires? Otherwise invest in a multimeter, they are invaluable and you can get a decent one for £25.

[s2_bo]

You can get a multimeter for about £10 from machinemart in Plymouth that should work.

[andyg plym]

im worried it could be more to it, i know i could test it but want to know wot other factors may be stoppin it workin

[AndyP]

I had a bit of a falling out with the manager at our Machine Mart and now I can never return

[AndyP]

im worried it could be more to it, i know i could test it but want to know wot other factors may be stoppin it workin

Could be something simple like a broken wire, if you had a MM you could test all the wires for continuity.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=multimeter&minprice=5&maxprice=20

[andyg plym]

il invest at weekend!

[newsh]

Take the valve off and try connecting 12v across it, it should clickety clack like a mad thing. I use an old motorbike battery and a couple of thin bits of wire so if I accidentally short them together I wont blow myself up

[Faheemo]

Output Test from VAG COM will also click the N75 On and OFF repeatedly.

[Knight Rider S4]

I would put vag.com on it and go through out put test leave it on N75 test (this sends pulses to the WGFV to test its working via the ECU) while this is happening check every connection and wiring lead to the bulk head ..If you have a spare WGFV plug that into just to make sure the one you have on is working (if that makes sense)

[Mikes2]

I've seen dead WGFVs twice on different cars and on both occasions it was wiring issues.

The wiring ends up at the ecu but there is a multiplug behind the headlight down in the depths of the loom. just before the plug, the wiring can be broken. Not sure if heat or vibrations / catching on the trims causes it

[Knight Rider S4]

As this was the issue on my Avant ...we ended up fixing this at Errol ah?

[4WheelDrifter]

You can run the output tests by connecting the diagnostic terminals as you would for the blink codes, but before you turn the ignition on IIRC.

[Mikes2]

As this was the issue on my Avant ...we ended up fixing this at Errol ah?

Yes, although somebody had been there already and attached one of the wires to ground.

output tests normally follow on directly after codes. If you read fault codes, you can trigger the output tests by jumpering the connector after the codes have finished