Oooops, did I just f*** up? Crank bolt etc.

[Error404]

if the engine is loose theres no point in locking the flywheel over the normal crank lokcing tool - the whole engine needs restraining.

I'd use spink's method, but again I loosened mine before i took it out the car - even then with a 6 foot scaffold bar on the end of a 3/4" breaker bar I swear me and my neighbour almost lifted the front of the car off the ground doing it - if yours has been tightened to spec with thread lock and the proper torque and been on there for years I recon you're looking at well over 1000lbft to crack it off again. Good luck

[WidowmakerS2]

if the engine is loose theres no point in locking the flywheel over the normal crank lokcing tool - the whole engine needs restraining.

I'd use spink's method, but again I loosened mine before i took it out the car - even then with a 6 foot scaffold bar on the end of a 3/4" breaker bar I swear me and my neighbour almost lifted the front of the car off the ground doing it - if yours has been tightened to spec with thread lock and the proper torque and been on there for years I recon you're looking at well over 1000lbft to crack it off again. Good luck

Oh, okay. I'll leave it where it is and find another one then.
Gonna try to make a crank locking tool like Djones'. I'm just hoping the bolt isnt very tight.

[Jamo]

Heat, Heat, Heat, works a treat

[lind4hl]

i had to use the VAG tool and an 1½m pipe on the tool, they are bolted tight thats for sure!

[terrybullwon]

Tough one, locking crank is difficult.
I found heavy duty impact air gun worked for me but you need a crank locking tool and someone to steady engine.

Good call Jay this is how mine came off. Also you can make something up with teeth to stop the flywheel turning i did this also.

[Graham]

I agree, a seriously ballsy rattle gun will do it, you will need the compression of the engine though, if the head is off to will have to lock the crank some how, a nice 1" rattle gun should do it though. I cant see any easy way with leverage, unless you use a large reaction arm very close to the breaker bar, so the reaction arm rests on the floor and the breaker bar is 30 degrees clockwise from the reaction bar.
Then push down on the breaker bar, you should be working against the floor and whole weight of the engine--that'le work.
same principle of undoing two fittings in mid air un supported.
If you need a drawing to explain give me a bell.

[philS2]

we used to use an 8mm stemmed engine valve,heated up halfway down and bent at 90degrees.then just put the thing in one of the bolt holes.the valve head then goes onto the ring gear.only downfall is,that it's only on one tooth.oh and now and again it slips due to teeth with rounded valleys.

[chezz]

Heat, Heat, Heat, works a treat

Excessive heat will probably damage the Harmonic dampers rubber membrane and could cause distortion in the damper, which will then upset the balance of the crank and so on...

[4WheelDrifter]

I had an engine that was very stubborn. I tried a 10' scaffold tube that I normally use, but holding the the actual engine still was very difficult.
In the end I locked the crank using a crowbar lodged in the flywheel bolts as usual, then got a 1" impact gun on the bolt. It made easy work of it. Unless I'd already loosened it.

As always a good tap with a hammer can help to crack any thread lock.
Be careful with heat, as said it can damage the damper/pulley, crank seal, so on.

Never lock the crank on one flywheel tooth. Have you seen the ring gear on its own? I wouldn't trust it.

[Graham]

I'd go easy with heat as well, its good on non moving bolts such as suspension bolts and tie rod adjustment turn buckles, not too good on rubber components, or the crank seal as heat will travel down the crank bolt into the crank possibly melting the seal or doing damage to the oil pump.