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go on guys, just a thought
how difficult and what parts will i need?
seen a 16valve avant sitting in someones drive for a while and thinking of knocking on with a small offer
Was gonna post just what mark said. Late cabrio got the ADR engine so there must be mounts that work. The ADR engine loom from cabrio might even be a good starting point for a nice clean install. The turbo version will have different ecu pinout and some extra sensors to wire in but the bulk of connections should be useful with loom putting hhe ecu in right place ...
Iv had 2 1.8 20v now 1 NA and the other one a 1.8t sport. 1st engine (NA) had 2 engine failures within 1000miles first head gasket went then the oil cooler went that was 83k miles FSH (specialist). 2nd the 1.8t sport which im about to start re building the oil pump has failed and the bottom end is knocking at 107k miles has FASH to 90k miles and one specialist at 101k miles, most oil changes donne at 5k miles as per audi and i did it at 103k when i bought it just to be on the safe side. still of that opinion? . . . . . . . . . . . Look up oil pump failures on the 1.8 20v engines you will be amazed, the AA guy told me he tows no less than 1 per week with the same problem, VAG have extended the waranty on this problem to 8 years as long as you can prove all oil changes at 5k miles.
What i found out is they mad the oil sump to small so the oil gets turned over to quickly, meaning the oil breaks down quicker than normal and turns in to sludge and settles in the sump thus reducing the size of the sump more and the oil gets worse and worse every time.
After 3.5k miles my oil is still clean but it has still failed!
Iv had 2 1.8 20v now 1 NA and the other one a 1.8t sport. 1st engine (NA) had 2 engine failures within 1000miles first head gasket went then the oil cooler went that was 83k miles FSH (specialist). 2nd the 1.8t sport which im about to start re building the oil pump has failed and the bottom end is knocking at 107k miles has FASH to 90k miles and one specialist at 101k miles, most oil changes donne at 5k miles as per audi and i did it at 103k when i bought it just to be on the safe side. still of that opinion? . . . . . . . . . . . Look up oil pump failures on the 1.8 20v engines you will be amazed, the AA guy told me he tows no less than 1 per week with the same problem, VAG have extended the waranty on this problem to 8 years as long as you can prove all oil changes at 5k miles.
What i found out is they mad the oil sump to small so the oil gets turned over to quickly, meaning the oil breaks down quicker than normal and turns in to sludge and settles in the sump thus reducing the size of the sump more and the oil gets worse and worse every time.
After 3.5k miles my oil is still clean but it has still failed!
Whats your experience with this engine jamo?
Yep the sludge issue is a common problem on the longitudinal 1.8t's as opposed to the transverse ones due to the smaller oil capacity due to the different block and sump design. You're supposed to fit the larger oil filter which carries double the volume of oil of the original one. Likewise it is adviseable to run the 5w40 platinum instead of the crappy 5w30 longlife stuff. As the 5W30 is no good for sustained hard turbo use as it is not designed to operate at the required temperatures.
Other than that the transverse 1.8t's are the absolute nuts and don't suffer from teh problem as 1) they have a larger oil capacity and 2) they have a better chain driven oil pump design.
I must say in my experience the 1.8T is not that bad an engine compared to a lot of others in the range. The oil cooler is the same design as pretty much every other VAG engine so if it fails on the 1.8T it can and does fail on all the others too. I've sold two today neither of them for 1.8T engines.
The oil pump issue can be a problem but using decent oil goes a long way to helping, no disrespect to anyone but most independant garages and specialists will buy the cheapest oil they can get their hands on and there is a lot of cheap stuff about that really isn't worth the barrel it comes in (the chip fat that vauxhall sell comes to mind). the other thing that helps is changing the oil pickup pipe. Sounds like a big job but considering that most alloy sumped VAG engines need a replacement sump after 5-6 services when monkeys have overtightened the sump plug then it's not a lot of extra work to change it.
Having said that all that I would go with Gazza's suggestion, 16vt.
Ben
the best intentions are fraught with disappointment - gil grissom
Having bought a 1.8 20V Cabrio the other month, this is for obvious reasons a swap that I am thinking of as well..
With funds being not what they need to be to finance the swap I am holding off for now. If I can be of any help in the mean time with pics etc, please let me know.
my 1.8T 20v Coupe Quattro is the fastest and quickest 4cyl AWD car (VAG) in the entire USA/Canada/Mexico.
it is also the second quickest Quattro overall, as well, next to an S4 with VR6T.
there is nothing unreliable about a maintained motor.
mine does 10.05 @ 138 in the 1/4 mile, 0-60 in 2.45 seconds, and pulls 1.46 60' times. is 615 AWHP as well, on the low boost settings. it will be 9 second car next outing as we got booted from both tracks for going too fast without the license, etc.
i know you guys over there are all pumped up on 20v I-5 stuff, but good things come out of 4cyl too.
that said, if you want bolt in solutions you need to stick with the 058 family of motor, like ADR/AEB etc. the external waterpump motor.
if you want to build brackets then the internal water pump motors (06A family) could be used. this is what i run, with an AEB head.
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