I thought that the 1.8t's suffered from the oil pick up pipe blocking not so much the oil pump giving up it's self???? I know at about 100k they need a clean out of a new pick up pipe. Other than that it is one of the best engines that VAG have built and easy to tune with plenty off the shelf parts. In other words DO IT!
1.8t into 80 avant?
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Well yes the oil pick up relates to the sludge problem....
Got engine out just now and the sump has some thick carbon like sludge and a lot of grit, thats all i can report till the morning!
Fao Speeding-g60 im sure you have no problem with this above engine as you have a highly tuned well looked after machine which is obviously loved by your self, im just sharing my expirience with the engine as a daily driver!Probably the longet S2 project in history EVER!
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plenty of daily driven 400+ WHP cars around the states. plenty.
only real things to keep on top of is the timing belt tensioner setup, and the oil sludge problems were more due to operator error than poor design IMHO.
the AEB motor is the one notorious for sludge. but the bottom end is the same from 1975 thru 2000 (minus the ABA block) in that it is the 058 family of block with external water pump. so the same oil pump, the same pickup tube, that we have been using for 25 years. why would using it as a 1781cc 1.8T instead of a 1781cc MK1 rabbit make any difference at all? it wouldnt.
other thing i would (and do on all my motors) is ditch the hydraulic timing belt tensioner setup, first thing. it is a notorious break item. run a 9A/16v manual tensioner pulley. how many of those you seen or heard of break? i never have personally. but the amount of TB failures due to tensioner issues with the hydraulic setup is great. and as we all know with an interference motor like this, minimum damage when this happens is all 8 exhaust valves and the middle 4 intake valves get bent. you can live with the dings in the piston tops. if they are not huge, you just smooth them out.
the later (06A) motors came with rods with 19mm wrist pins and a tapered head design. weak weak. the AEB rods were non-tapered and has 20mm wrist pins. stronger, up to about 300 WHP. it is the rod itself that is weak. the factory AEB pistons have shown good for >650 WHP over here, and as such are sought after for budget builds. throw a set of $350 rods in and you are good to like 400 WHP with no head work providing you keep the revs down under 8k rpm.
next up to go is the exhaust valves. they get hot. and when you do those, you do HD springs and retainers and your build is basically done. intake valves have proven fine. CAT 3658 camset is the new hot ticket, and a 30R and you are knocking on 450 AWHP door without issue with tuning.
thats all.... just a couple little points for you gents.....
carry on.
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Well at least we agree that the engine is not perfect any way....... it probably is an ok engine its just my experience with it im sharing you can understand how pissed off i am with all the recent failures of suposidly well looked after engines.....
Any specific things out of the norm i should look out for or check when re building it?Probably the longet S2 project in history EVER!
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16vt doesn't need S2 pistons at all.
you need 2 abf head gaskets. stack these use arp head studs.
there are lots of manifolds about for exhaust. inlet is a differnet area.
AVOID S2PARTS ON A 16VT. there we go i feel better for shouting that. so many use crappy s2 partsComment
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Just bear in mind that cabrio with ADR engine (1.8 20v) has big aluminum mounts bolted to the rails like v6 cars so if you want to to bolt on 1.8t to a b4 chassis (without welding) best choice would be a v6 car.Comment
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1.8T 20v is far from bad engine and it shares many design ideas with T5 20v and it is light.
The Audi A4 1.8t quattro in Denmark DHB 2010 9.86s - 825hp
Though I like more the 5....Comment
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for internals, over here in USA it is Integrated Engineering. or SCAT, Pauter, Carillo, Arrow for rods.
pistons its CP, JE, Wiseco, Mahle, or stock AEB.
contact Pete at IE and tell him Aaron sent you his way.... he can take care of all your 1.8T needs.

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so shoot me for being honest and not licking 5 pot ****. just becuae i feel i dont agree and its about gettin it right makes me an anti?
why use a part designed for 5 cyl on 4. why resrict the potential of the 16vt with s2 parts. the number of s2 parts on my s2 is getting fewer. in fact really is an I5 T not an S2 in my car.
poor manifold in 5 pot guise. old turbo design, not big enough.
so tell me why its the best route to use s2 parts, cut and shut on a 16v?Comment


as it happens yes
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