some tests with bad results ¡¡

[Sonic]

OK could be similar like mine,do you have a wideband with gauge??

and a noob question.... what it is WGFW??? i can understand that it is something in the Wastegate??

I have a boost gauge to see what's going on, stock turbo, ABY engine etc.

WGFV = wastegate frequency valve aka N75.

[GazzaG60]

get ready for the GazzaG60 boost controller post. lol

whats the point in faffing with N75. if you sont want a boost controller that does it the best way go the route jamo has and get a new uprated reliable valve.

sure jamo will explain.

having said that maybe its a software thing.

[Rocco]

I have a boost gauge to see what's going on, stock turbo, ABY engine etc.

WGFV = wastegate frequency valve aka N75.

if the problems comes only for the N75...i will jump and destroy it ¡¡¡

thanks for the help¡¡

N75 it is more simple and easy to say and understand in any language

[Sonic]

get ready for the GazzaG60 boost controller post. lol

whats the point in faffing with N75. if you sont want a boost controller that does it the best way go the route jamo has and get a new uprated reliable valve.

sure jamo will explain.

having said that maybe its a software thing.

We both have WGFV's from bo, not stock.

Mine is fitted, doesn't sound like Rocco has his fitted yet.

[Sonic]

if the problems comes only for the N75...i will jump and destroy it ¡¡¡

thanks for the help¡¡

N75 it is more simple and easy to say and understand in any language

I think i'm right in saying the N75 is the audi WGFV, so bo's one is a WGFV, but not an N75.

[Rocco]

get ready for the GazzaG60 boost controller post. lol

whats the point in faffing with N75. if you sont want a boost controller that does it the best way go the route jamo has and get a new uprated reliable valve.

sure jamo will explain.

having said that maybe its a software thing.

i´ve bought one of the S2_Bo valves... they work like the N75 and it can be used with 4 ports for connect it to the wastegate

i have a spare manual valve too...i could dissable electrically the N75 and install this valve ....and if i dont lose the boost the N75 was failing for sure.

if not...software thing like you said. i bet 99% that my turbo hoses are fine and they dont lose air...

many thanks for ALL friends¡¡

[Rocco]

I think i'm right in saying the N75 is the audi WGFV, so bo's one is a WGFV, but not an N75.

yes i know it

[Rocco]

We both have WGFV's from bo, not stock.

Mine is fitted, doesn't sound like Rocco has his fitted yet.

yes, i am using my old original N75 valve

but for few time i guess

[GazzaG60]

IRC the valve bo has is the ame as the eboost 2 one i have.

it works.

[prj]

You get boost cut, because you get too much boost... more than is programmed.
The problem is not N75, the problem is the mapping.

This is because your turbo produces more boost than the RS2 turbo and I guess you need to have a lower duty cycle programmed into the chip to prevent it from overshooting boost in high gears.

Makes perfect sense.
If you have access to a chip programmer, I can probably send you a .bin file with proper N75 duty cycle. I am about to map a car with a K26/K27 hybrid myself (this week), so if the turbos are the same, you can use the map...

Of course the greater question is - is there a point? You have a new engine anyway

P.S.
All this "throw away the N75" talk is funny. N75 can easily handle 2.2 bar from my experience, the only reason you want to throw it away, is because you don't know how to map the ECU. Electronic boost control allows you to extract more power and torque from the engine than mechanical control.
Replacing rev range and TPS based programmable boost control with a single value is like putting a carburetor on your S2.

[GazzaG60]

i threw mine away to replace with E-boost. simple as. the old solenoid fluctuated boost. eboost spooled quicker and hit and held.

then its about knowing what the engines good for as its not an integrated component. boost control can be an evil to the unknowledged.

[prj]

i threw mine away to replace with E-boost. simple as. the old solenoid fluctuated boost. eboost spooled quicker and hit and held.

The quicker spool is mostly an illusion. This is because N75 boost control is sophisticated and based on a 3D map. If you don't depress your throttle 100% the ECU will bleed off boost.
It's target boost depends on throttle position as well as RPM, which the eboost does not provide.
You can easily connect the N75 to make it work pretty much the same as eboost.

Let's take as an example a K24-7000 turbo, with it's compressor map and data...


If you use proper electronic boost control, you can go to 1.4-1.5 bar at 3000 rpm and prevent the turbo from fireballing at 7000 rpm, by bleeding off boost in a controlled fashion.

If you use mechanical control, then you boost 1 bar and that's it. Else you fireball the turbo at 7000rpm.
Not to mention that during normal driving TPS based boost control saves fuel and is easier on the turbo.

But hey, it's always easier to turn a knob than learn motronic, it does not mean the N75 and motronic are bad though.

[hoffer76]

Rocco has been running with same map for several months without boost cut so unlikely to be map issue.

still betting on boost leak or sensor issue

[prj]

He ran with the SAME turbo on the same map?
From what I read here, he said he swapped turbo and then his problems started.

If you put a bigger turbo, but keep turbo chip the same, then you will experience issues with the boost going too high in higher gears and the ECU cutting the boost as a failsafe.
Of course there are some nice ebay chips with all failsafes disabled

[hoffer76]

I sold him the turbo six months ago and pretty sure it was installed straight away.