SAFETY WARNING:-
The coolant system is pressurised when at operating temperature and so any leaks that go critical can cause an explosion of 90+degC coolant. If you're unlucky (and I was) you get this straight on your face and it HURTS A LOT! There's also the 3 hours in A&E to reflect on your previous good looks... I was lucky. If you think you have a leak, don't go poking about until the system pressure is released and the engine is off! This will make life a lot easier, trust me!
This is how I bleed the coolant system, had quite a bit of practice at this after my rad trouble a while ago:-
With the engine off and cold:-
You're now good to go but keep an eye on it for a run or two.
The leve shoulod be at min when the car is cold again and at max when at operating temperature.
Job Done
HTH
Update:-
If you have drained the heater matrix or pipework (e.g. when fitting a new block coolant pipe), then you will need to disconnect the engine to heater matrix pipe up by the strut brrace and back-fill the matrix / engine to prevent an air lock. On many cars, the plastic matrix bleed screw will have sheared, so you'll have to be a little creative to make sure that as little air is in the matrix as possible
The coolant system is pressurised when at operating temperature and so any leaks that go critical can cause an explosion of 90+degC coolant. If you're unlucky (and I was) you get this straight on your face and it HURTS A LOT! There's also the 3 hours in A&E to reflect on your previous good looks... I was lucky. If you think you have a leak, don't go poking about until the system pressure is released and the engine is off! This will make life a lot easier, trust me!
This is how I bleed the coolant system, had quite a bit of practice at this after my rad trouble a while ago:-
- Fill the system and get the level somewhere close.
- Remove the 3 screws on the header tank.
- Lift the header tank well above the rad - you can sit it on the mounting points
- Undo the rad screw so that it lets any air out - when the bubbles stop you're done.
- Re-fit the header tank & screws.
- Fit the header tank cap on securely.
- Make sure the fan is connected - I forgot to connect the fan on more than 1 occasion, no harm done though!
- Run the car up to temp, keeping an eye on the level - if it suddenly drops then stop the car, top up to the min level then re-start the process.
- Make sure the fan kicks in at 90+2 notches - higer suggests a leak / not pressurising properly.
- Turn it off and let it cool - overnight if possible.
With the engine off and cold:-
- Remove the 3 screws on the header tank.
- Lift the header tank well above the rad.
- Undo the rad screw to let any air out - again, when the bubbles stop you're done.
- Re-fit the header tank / screws.
- With the car on level ground fill it up to the min marker (this must be done cold!).
- Repeat the header tank trick if necessary.
You're now good to go but keep an eye on it for a run or two.
The leve shoulod be at min when the car is cold again and at max when at operating temperature.
Job Done
HTH
Update:-
If you have drained the heater matrix or pipework (e.g. when fitting a new block coolant pipe), then you will need to disconnect the engine to heater matrix pipe up by the strut brrace and back-fill the matrix / engine to prevent an air lock. On many cars, the plastic matrix bleed screw will have sheared, so you'll have to be a little creative to make sure that as little air is in the matrix as possible
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