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The vapors from tank can be vented outside.The whole system colects vapors and get them in the intake when motronic considers by opening a electric povered valve.Never tried to understand when..
The 3rd fuel line, the one that goes through the cylindrical canister at the rear (carbon canister) what is it and what does it do?? Just starting the fuel lines and remember someone saying you don't actually need it? Cheers Will
No you don't *need* it or the catalytic converters. Unless of course you have a conscience and you like to do your bit to protect the environment from photo-chemical smog-inducing unburnt hydrocarbon vapours.
The Evaporative Emissions system does NOT hurt your performance and might help your fuel consumption (by burning the fuel vapours) so there is no reason to remove it.
If you want to read more about the system (using an UrS4 evaporative emissions system as an example), Click HERE
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
theres a really good reason to remove it - you won't need to replace it with another 3 meters of copper based alloy that has been dug out of the ground, refined, processed, extruded, packed and shipped to the wholesaler, retailer and finally you. I know which i think is more environmentally sound
theres a really good reason to remove it - you won't need to replace it with another 3 meters of copper based alloy that has been dug out of the ground, refined, processed, extruded, packed and shipped to the wholesaler, retailer and finally you. I know which i think is more environmentally sound
Lame arguement. I am sure that you don't have a new computer or a new flat screen TV or a new stereo or any rechargeable batteries. No metal in them. Nope. None.
Using your argument, we should not buy anything new. Period.
Sorry.
(Guess what kind of engineer I am/was)
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
I wasn't arguing, just commenting against your needless preaching
I am an environmental engineer who happens to be a gear head as well. So when it comes to running around with a RS2'd 20vt engine, I *personally* think that it is the least I can do is to continue to run the OE Catalytic converters, the Crankcase ventilation system *AND* the evaporative emissions control system. Sometimes, I have to speak out in favour of keeping these systems in top working order.
Now, if you *wanted* to argue, we could discuss the environmental merits of buying a Toyota Prius and its lovely Lithium hydride batteries or just keep running a well maintained 18 year old UrS4 for the 8000 odd miles per year that I drive.
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
very nice work willg54. I looked over your project thread and must say your S2 is coming along very nicely. a few questions on these lines...
...What size are these lines?
...What fittings will you use?
...These came off a roll so you will need to flare them your self, isnt there a specific type of flare needed? iso maybe
...When pulling down the old lines is there some type of bleeding that needs to be done, or how do you avoid spilling gas every where?
very nice work willg54. I looked over your project thread and must say your S2 is coming along very nicely. a few questions on these lines...
...What size are these lines?
...What fittings will you use?
...These came off a roll so you will need to flare them your self, isnt there a specific type of flare needed? iso maybe
...When pulling down the old lines is there some type of bleeding that needs to be done, or how do you avoid spilling gas every where?
1 - I used 8mm Kunifer (copper-nickel) 5/16 is the near enough the same...0.07mm smaller!
2 - The tank end, 2 are just pushed into rubber tubes and the other either requires a wade connector to use the old fitment to the fuel filter or access to hydraulic pipe machines to crimp new lines. The engine bay end depends on how far you go. With the engine in, you cant do the entire line. Most people just do the lines until they go up into the engine bay and connect to the existing lines with wade connectors. Im doing the whole lot and putting my own ends on the lines to use ss braided lines to the fuel rail.
3 - Flaring on the tank end isnt necessary but does help a little, nothing special though. If you do go to the engine bay end with the lines, the flare there is very specific...might be worth just cutting the old ends off your old lines and fitting them to the new ones with wade connectors
4 - I just undid the lines and let it run, only a little bit in there anyway. m8 bolt nicely plugs the rubber lines from the tank!
Remember to clean your lines out before fitting and running!!
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