ARP head bolts

[Simons]

Simons thumbs up as pretty much as good as it gets with a clicky one. You can also get your wrench re calibrated I normally do this every 6mnths

Thanks mate but finally I couldn't see the real torque...I need a good digital wrench, and I'll put my clicky one on the shelf

Do you know a good and not too much expensive one??

How much is the error between 6mnths?and also depends how you used...but how many

How do you check the re-torque after some miles without digital one?? Tightening again with the last torque or turning back 90º and then tightening the last torque

Thanks!

[JP]

Re torque, never undo, only tighten using the final torque sequence. Either 65 or 80 in your case. Margin of error over 6mnths varies on heat cycles of winter summer, storage method, how often used and to which torque value. If stored sensibly at constant temp. Used infrequently can last many years without recallibrating. Sometimes mine is out 2-3% sometimes less.

Whereas the worst clicky torque wrench I've seen was just over 70% out from someone that left it permanently set at 110nm for tightening his wheels because he didn't realise you had to set it to 0 when stored. The frightening thing is that the person in question worked for the RAF and he said they just send them of for calibration every 6mnths.

Good value digital one check out the sealey ones. Personally prefer them to the dearer snap on one which gets issues with the display.

[URQguy]

ARP simply changed their recommendation. What is so hard to understand about that? They were conservative with 65lbs to take into consideration the average torque wrench that has not been calibrated for a while, or never was calibrated to begin with. I have used a calibrated SNAP-ON torque wrench for years, and 85lbs will not crush the area around the washer. I do know what the situation is, as 95ft/lbs will do this( I have experimented with my own motors trying to get more clamp) and it is a pain to get the studs out of the head. My point is that a true 85lbs with their lube is the ideal torque spec for getting the best clamp and not crushing the head.

THey used to be at 65lbs, but they got tired of the guys pushing hte envelope calling up and saying the head lifted.. They have been telling people on a call in basis for years to retorque to 85lbs on high output motors. They finally just moved to the 85ft/lb spec on all the 10, 11,12mm and 7/16ths studs and left the responsibility calibration up to the end user. 65 lbs gave torque wrench the wiggle room of being 20lbs too strong.

If you are crushing the area around the washer with 85lbs and the ARP LUBE, it is probably time to recalibrate your wrench. Perhaps mine reads a little high too, that is always a possibility.

[Thuppu]

Is the 55ft-lbs torque right for the ARP-bolts on Aron's H-beam rods? Isn't it a little too much?

[JP]

ARP 2000's are 5 - 5.5thou stretch which usually works out around 50ft/lb using ARP moly lube.

[Thuppu]

So they should not be tightened over 50ft-lbs? Actually I didn't understand anythin of that above.

[JP]

50ft/lb arp lube, 55ft/lb motor oil

[Thuppu]

Ok, thanks.

[Thuppu]

As SQ washers are not available anymore had to figure out something else... Here is a DIY washer kitt for the APR head bolts, made of high tensile steel(size 22x4mm, hardness 50+HRC).

[Thuppu]

Seems that 25mm is absolute maximum size for the headbolt washers. Two ones need some grinding...

[Rusty]

Where did you get the washers from? Did you design and have them made yourself?

What was the final size that you went for? Is there an off the shelf equivalent?

Ta

[Wheeljack]

As SQ washers are not available anymore had to figure out something else... Here is a DIY washer kitt for the APR head bolts, made of high tensile steel(size 22x4mm, hardness 50+HRC).

That is a nice bit of kit!

[Error404]

they look the ********

[jax1]

I have ARP 204-4207 head bolts, is it correct when I torque them 40nm-75nm-105nm with this arp lube? But how I have to torgue them in block? using 10nm with threadlocker or without? Or use there this arp lube too?

Thanks!!!

[andy10v]

Studs into the block are only hand tight, ARP say you can use loctite or their lube.

http://arp-bolts.com/p/FAQ.php

Can I use Loctite or any thread locker instead of ARP Ultra-Torque assembly lube?
Yes, you can. Some engine builders use blue Loctite on the stud end that goes into the block. Do NOT use Loctite on the nuts for the head studs or main studs. Always ensure that the threads are clean prior to applying any lube. When using Loctite, make sure you assemble the parts before the Loctite cures. You can use Loctite instead of ARP Ultra-Torque, but do not use them together.

Do the threads of the bolts or studs going into the block need lube?
Yes. On blind holes use a small amount of ARP Ultra-Torque lube on those threads. Additionally, if the studs protrude into a water jacket, you will need to clean the threads in the block to remove all coolant and oil residue. Apply a liberal amount of ARP thread sealer or a high temperature thread sealer.

Do the head studs only go in hand, or finger tight?
Yes, cylinder head studs are installed only hand tight. Other than the use of an allen wrench on the hex broached into the end of the stud (to ease installation, not to apply torque), use no tools to seat them in the block. However, it is extremely important to ensure that the studs are fully bottomed out in the hole in the block and not hung up on damaged or corroded threads in the block preventing the stud from being fully seated. This is often indicated when the stud threads extend past the deck surface.