S2 ABY Wont start

[S2TORNADO]

not trying to scare you fella. just advising to keep on your toes. worst case on the car is a new pump!!
there are two different fuel pumps across 3b and aby. the diameter is the difference, later ones are thiner. you can run either but if your swapping over between the two you need to change the whole plastic cradle that sits in the tank.

Hmmm your scaring me now! Are 3B and ABY fuel pumps same/compatible?

Thanks

[Biggss2]

the bit where you said you tested it across a battery and it spluttered into life makes me think even more the pump is on its way out. once you've took it out of the fuel bath it is in effect turning the pump in fresh air against no fuel resistance. the spluttering bit is when the last of the fuel is drained/pumped out of the way and then up to full speed.

definately keep your eye on it and i wouldn't refit the carpets etc for a few weeks or so.
keep any tools you need to access it again with you. i hope i'm wrong but i think you'll be revisiting this.

Hmmm your scaring me now! Are 3B and ABY fuel pumps same/compatible?

Thanks

[Biggss2]

I'm talking about the little cover of the actual relay, is it a click on plastic cover? If so you can pop the top off it with a thin screwdriver. You want to see if the contacts are stuck together.

Alternatively listen to the relay with a screwdriver in your ear and get someone to turn the ignition on and off, if it clicks then its working and the problem is elsewhere.

Lol yea relays naked I can the the copper wire etc the contacts look ok.. Will pursue the otter switch see way happens when that's disconnected?! Fan stops working when I disconnect relay..

[newsh]

The relays off newsh seems to connect ok and hasn't got any green/white limescale/scum on it so as far as I can see relays ok.. It's a gray one

I'm talking about the little cover of the actual relay, is it a click on plastic cover? If so you can pop the top off it with a thin screwdriver. You want to see if the contacts are stuck together.

Alternatively listen to the relay with a screwdriver in your ear and get someone to turn the ignition on and off, if it clicks then its working and the problem is elsewhere.

[S2TORNADO]

the bit where you said you tested it across a battery and it spluttered into life makes me think even more the pump is on its way out. once you've took it out of the fuel bath it is in effect turning the pump in fresh air against no fuel resistance. the spluttering bit is when the last of the fuel is drained/pumped out of the way and then up to full speed.

definately keep your eye on it and i wouldn't refit the carpets etc for a few weeks or so.
keep any tools you need to access it again with you. i hope i'm wrong but i think you'll be revisiting this.

[Biggss2]

Lol sure is

I've got an in depth guide on changing the cambelt tomorrow which I shall be using

http://s2central.net/Timing_Belt_Renewal_Rev1.pdf

I keep saying 'i' I'm really on making tea and tool passing duties

[S2central.net]

Well that's one way to test a fuel pump !

All well that ends well again though :-)

[Biggss2]

Ok as per my cousin this Is how the fuel pump testing went down, you guys are overly helpful so even if this helps one person-BONUS

Car had spark, wouldn't start, kept on blowing lambda heater fuse!

1st thoughts were control position sensor located behind crank pulley- Right this is where I went wrong and nearly a hundred and something pounds out of pocket. If there Is a spark the hall sender is fine and is receiving signals to and from ECU

Next checked timing on bell housing and top crank - it was fine.

By now all obvious avenues had been exhausted time and time again, fuses and relays earth straps earth from engine to car etc etc all was corresponding and inline with how things should have been

Right now I thought it's got to be the immobilizer that is stopping the car from starting, I am so glad I didn't go crazy with my wire snips!

The more I think about the next bit the more I'm thinking if there was a spark we would have been f***ed

Thoughts turned to fuel pump.. It got stripped out of the boot of the car left in a bath of petrol, luckily everyone had put out there cigarettes by now and we wasn't near any naked flames.. The pump got taken out the petrol bath and hooked up to a live battery.. It spluttered a little spluttered some more then it started dancing...

Put back in the car and magic it started, I'm not sure it was a safe bet, but I am only sharing this information as to what I did and I am not endorsing it from a health and safety point of view

Maybe Paul/mods know a safer way of testing which they can report

Many thanks to you guys for your contributions/information it was priceless!

When in my posts I say 'I' I refer to my cousin (bless him) my mechanic (Shaun china- surname of wheeler dealer Ed china it's not really china lol) and my brother, mr Multimeter who have all contributed and played a great part in bringing my s2 back to life..

Thankyou thankyou thankyou

[Biggss2]

The relays off newsh seems to connect ok and hasn't got any green/white limescale/scum on it so as far as I can see relays ok.. It's a gray one

[newsh]

Can you pop the cover off the relay and see if the contacts are working?

[Biggss2]

Grrrr

Look at that, if I pull the relay off it stops so I'm hoping it's One of the two.. Will try relay first being the easiest to get to.. That said the whole fronts off so will check the otter switch too.. I'm thinking while I'm at it might aswell change all the cambelt/aux belts/water pump/timing belt roller while I'm at it.. Come in at £105.00 eurocarparts

[Biggss2]

Cheers newsh, otter switch i will need to have a l

[newsh]

Rad fan is switched on by the "otter" switch (lives underwater) at the bottom of the rad, if you pull the plug off this and it stops then you need a new one. If it still runs then the relay is stuck or you have a short in the wiring.

[newsh]

I had a feeling it was the fuel pump Buy a new fuel pump and keep it in the car, it will almost certainly fail again.

Take the aux rad out and plug the pipes, its in parallel with the main rad so joining the pipes effectively bypasses the main rad, not so good. Many cars on here with big HP run without the aux rad although if you drive in traffic a lot it might help to keep it..

[Biggss2]

Lambda seems to have sorted itself out, must have been shorting via fuel pump.. Only other problem I'm having Is the fans are running constantly.. Any ideas guys? Thanks..