S2 ABY Wont start

[Biggss2]

22 Miles and still going..

few boost spike issues, power was coming and going top end, this was narrowed down to a loose battery earth terminal..

fingers crossed i think together we have nailed it!


thank you all for your priceless help!!

[Biggss2]

Which equates to about 92-93degrees, so should be normal most likely get it all back together and give it a good spin, let's hope it stays running this time,

Thanks all for your kind help

[Biggss2]

Hmmm Mine sits bang on in the middle.. At standstill

[Jonnybravo]

I believe the stats are either 88 or 92 degrees, the one I recently purchased sat at 90 dead on in traffic but fell when driving which was cured with a thermostat, fans worked perfectly but would literally only come on for a few seconds.

[Biggss2]

I didn't leave it running for long cos I ***** myself hot engine and minimal fans

[Biggss2]

Lhd kid, that's the thing it doesn't overheat it reaches temp bang on in the middle.. I'm hoping u guys are going to say that's normal and they don't run at 90degrees

[Biggss2]

Thanks jOnny and urs4.. That's very re assuring

With regards to the coilpack, which way round do the plugs go.. The top and the lower ones I've swapped them about and it still starts up, same as if they were incorrect to start with

Fan doesn't kick in upon turning car off, literally 10-12 seconds at just over 90degrees.. Will it kick in more when I drive it? Where does the temperature sit on these normally? bang on in the middle or around 90degrees?

With the other 324 relay fans are working overtime kicking in from the time the battery is connected?!

So I've either got not enough fans or too much lol

Something definitely up with the fans..

[LHD_Kid]

Thank you.. Jonnybravo and urs4 that re assures me about the hot top.. But the fan is puzzling me it literally kicks in for about 10-12 seconds just over 90degrees then won't kick in again (on standstill)

I was also worried about this with mine too.... but you need to remember the fan switch is in the base of the radiator, where the temp sender to the gauge is in the underside of the water manifold on the engine...

You should find that if you run the engine for longer and as all the water in the entire system heats up to a more uniform temp the fan will probably stay on for longer...

The important thing is to see what temp the gauge reaches, does it ever actually overheat while ticking over for a while?

[Biggss2]

Thank you.. Jonnybravo and urs4 that re assures me about the hot top.. But the fan is puzzling me it literally kicks in for about 10-12 seconds just over 90degrees then won't kick in again (on standstill)

[Biggss2]

Hmm the fan isn't kicking in after the cars got either? But with the other 324 it will just keep going even without any keys in the car?! From stone cold as soon as the battery is connected...

Am I being paranoid or do these cars run hot under the bonnet?

Should the temperature sit bang on in the middle or at 90degrees?!

Sorry I must sound like a stuck record with the catalogue of problems I'm experiencing..

With regards to the boost I don't want to drive it too much/ haven't drove it at all to be honest I've got a good feeling the coilpack will get cooked again

[UrS4boy]

The 20v turbo cover is getting real hot too, just like the last one before it got cooked, have I got the plugs wrong, I've swapped them around but car still starts as it would if they were incorrectly plugged to start off with
Any help is appreciated.. Thank you

The 20vTurbo cover always gets hot (enough to burn you). Not to worry.

As for the G4 and G28 plugs, go back to my previous post regarding location on the flywheel bell housing and make sure the front sender (now the G4) is connected to the black firewall connector and the rear sender (now the G28) is connected to the grey firewall connector. In theory this should be black to black and grey to grey but if somebody messed with them at the flywheel the could be messed up.

[Jonnybravo]

The top of those engines get extremely hot, I would doubt that is anything unusual unless its warmer over one particular coilpack.

[Biggss2]

The 20v turbo cover is getting real hot too, just like the last one before it got cooked, have I got the plugs wrong, I've swapped them around but car still starts as it would if they were incorrectly plugged to start off with

Just as I get over a hurdle, I take a fall with this

Any help is appreciated.. Thank you

[UrS4boy]

Upon further investigation, the plug on the n75 had come loose and was disconnected, vag lead went pop so can't vagcom it to rule out this problem (1thing after another arrrrgghh). The only problem (fingers crossed) I'm left with is the radiator fan, initially when battery was on car the fan would run regardless of ignition, keys out fan running. So I changed the brown relay by drivers footwell, ok so now the fan doesn't run automatically,

With the N75 connected again, you should now be getting full boost (disconnected = mechanical boost only).

The brown (324?) relay is the after-run pump relay that runs the after-run pump and the rad fan after the engine has been shut down hot. See: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/21503.phtml for more info.

[Biggss2]

Hi all

Upon further investigation, the plug on the n75 had come loose and was disconnected, vag lead went pop so can't vagcom it to rule out this problem (1thing after another arrrrgghh)

The only problem (fingers crossed) I'm left with is the radiator fan, initially when battery was on car the fan would run regardless of ignition, keys out fan running.

So I changed the brown relay by drivers footwell, ok so now the fan doesn't run automatically, however only runs for like 15seconds when the car reaches 90degrees goes off temp goes to middle- no fan cutting in?! Bear in
Mind this Is on standstill, will the fan run more when I drive the car.. I don't want to cook the coilpack, definitely don't want to cook the engine :s

Thanks in advance