what oil to rev the engine to 8000rpm?

[jorge s2]

I think that the oil you use right now is good enough for it (castrol edge 10 60 ) , right ?

[prj]

How high it needs to be revved will be seen during mapping, meaning where the torque curve starts falling off.

With a 3076R, it won't be more than 7400 rpm.
What it will be with that lottery turbo (also called CT), I have no idea. After all I have read in this forum, and also about ITS on other forums, I would never run one of those myself.

[Rocco]

I think that the oil you use right now is good enough for it (castrol edge 10 60 ) , right ?

What? No no,it stills have 0/40 or something like this .

How high it needs to be revved will be seen during mapping, meaning where the torque curve starts falling off.

With a 3076R, it won't be more than 7400 rpm.
What it will be with that lottery turbo (also called CT), I have no idea. After all I have read in this forum, and also about ITS on other forums, I would never run one of those myself.

Dont you like the Russian roulette?

[andy10v]

Have you read JP's thread?

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=612780

As the car stands on the road I'm finding myself short shifting at 6500-6800 it actually feels strange carrying on to 7.8k although feels faster when I do. Stock lifters I tend to say 7500 continuous with 8k peak on 16v lumps so as they're the same I'm sticking to the same rule.

Oilpump wise they start to cavitate above 8k a problem that's made worse by running too thick an oil. I use 5w40 fully synth from Audi the platinum stuff. As volume of flow is more important than pressure at high rpm, running a temperature suitable oil with less top end pressure is the way to go as it is less susceptible to cavitation and will help pull the heat away from moving parts much better than a 10w50 for example.

Supertech springs, valves and retainers. Stock late aftermarket ina hydraulic lifters which appear to be identical to the lightweight ones everyone sells in the US.

There was another thread regarding modifying the oilways to prevent all the oil ending up in the head at higher rpm.

Or DRY SUMP

[Rocco]

Have you read JP's thread?

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=612780

There was another thread regarding modifying the oilways to prevent all the oil ending up in the head at higher rpm.

Or DRY SUMP

thanks, i have read it

so i think with a good 5W40 is more than enough

[caterpillar]

There was another thread regarding modifying the oilways to prevent all the oil ending up in the head at higher rpm.
-link please-

[Thuppu]

Starts on side 3, two last posts: http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53758

[Rocco]

MOTUL 300V 5W40

[terrybullwon]

MOTUL 300V 5W40

Smells great

[Rocco]

Smells great

are you using the same James? or maybe for your track car it is better the 300V 15W50

[Trankelstein]

oilfilm

What about oilfilm breakdown?

I haven´t got any firsthand experience with it (thankfully) but it´s a pretty common statement on the German 5-cyl forums that the probability of an oilfilm/->bearing failure rises significantly after 7,5krpm with stock oilsystem.

[terrybullwon]

I think if i used the Motul a oil change might cost £300

[Rocco]

I think if i used the Motul a oil change might cost £300

2 liters 30€ in Spain

so..WTF would you do to spend 300gbp every 7000kms?

do you like to drink it on weekend nights with your friends?

[terrybullwon]

2 liters 30€ in Spain

so..WTF would you do to spend 300gbp every 7000kms?

do you like to drink it on weekend nights with your friends?

Dry sump tank takes alittle more than wet sump and i would change it alittle more often its about £35 for 2lt over here so maybe my £300 was alittle extreme but its still not cheap