URS6 Way Too weak!!!
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Is it worth altering it by a tooth to try or prove anything???I was away when I saw your first post on a hotel computer. I thought I had responded but apparently not.
Have you checked the cam to crank timing after the head job? My guess is you are out by one or two teeth. (I thought this even before you tried everything else).
Here are some hints: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/136943.phtmlComment
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I've rechecked it after i posted that just to make sure i'm not being especially thick or blind and no, it appears bang on! I'd almost prefer it to be out to be honest!!!
Do you have any relevant readings for the MAF and MAF circuit please?? (vag-com live or multimeter?)
Rightly or wrongly, due to the fact it started out intermittent and slowly became worse until permanent i'm convinced that its an electrical issue, maybe between component and ecu plug??Comment
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Okay. Timing isn't an issue (but at least it is eliminated by checking). For MAF info, go to the diagram linked below and click on the G70 MAF label (live link, as are all the other labels). (Lower left corner of the diagram - includes a link back to this forum with Paul N's MAF info)I've rechecked it after i posted that just to make sure i'm not being especially thick or blind and no, it appears bang on! I'd almost prefer it to be out to be honest!!! Do you have any relevant readings for the MAF and MAF circuit please?? (vag-com live or multimeter?)
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avantComment
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I am certain I meet you in bury a couple of years ago,a guy on hear was breaking an s4
If it was you, the car was not running right then.
I had this problem with my s2 when I first bought it and it took 2years to find the fault.It was the front knock sensor,and there where no codes by the way, so it took some tracking down.It may or not be your problem but if you dont check each possibility then you end up going round in circles,it may not be the sensor it self but the the wireing.
I am having a problem trying to locate an issue with my s2 at the moment which is proving difficult, on the other hand I have an s6 which has been faultless from day one.
Good luck and hope you solve your problem soon.Comment
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Yes, wiring is the next thing i'm going to look in to. As, unfortunately for my wallet, when i said every sensor, i meant it, all new from GSF or Audi including both knock sensors, both crank and cam!I am certain I meet you in bury a couple of years ago,a guy on hear was breaking an s4
If it was you, the car was not running right then.
I had this problem with my s2 when I first bought it and it took 2years to find the fault.It was the front knock sensor,and there where no codes by the way, so it took some tracking down.It may or not be your problem but if you dont check each possibility then you end up going round in circles,it may not be the sensor it self but the the wireing.
I am having a problem trying to locate an issue with my s2 at the moment which is proving difficult, on the other hand I have an s6 which has been faultless from day one.
Good luck and hope you solve your problem soon.Comment
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Crank and cam sensors are never going to cause this.
Try disconnecting the O2 sensor and then driving. There are two connectors - one for power, and a single pin one for the signal.
You had a "signal too low" code before, if that is continuing to happen, it might be the culprit.Comment
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O2 sensor is brand new Audi and have driven with disconnected and makes no difference, which is no real surprise since you told me in a previous post that the signal is not used under full throttle. I had no 'signal too low code' it was the live date from the vag-com i was refering to.Crank and cam sensors are never going to cause this.
Try disconnecting the O2 sensor and then driving. There are two connectors - one for power, and a single pin one for the signal.
You had a "signal too low" code before, if that is continuing to happen, it might be the culprit.Comment
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Okay well, Motronic is pretty damn simple when it comes to putting fuel in.
If there is nothing mechanically wrong with the thing then it's as simple as dividing the MAF value by RPM. Then some maps and that's it.
Of course this is assuming that the fuel pressure is alright.
So - you pressure tested everything, let's assume there are no leaks.
Now test the fuel pressure, make sure it is not tapering off. The fuel filter might be clogged or the fuel pickup.Comment
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I'll look at the MAF map as the FPR is new, as is the pump anf filter, all audi parts and the fuel pressure, last time i checked it was bang on spec! Thanks for the help so far!Okay well, Motronic is pretty damn simple when it comes to putting fuel in.
If there is nothing mechanically wrong with the thing then it's as simple as dividing the MAF value by RPM. Then some maps and that's it.
Of course this is assuming that the fuel pressure is alright.
So - you pressure tested everything, let's assume there are no leaks.
Now test the fuel pressure, make sure it is not tapering off. The fuel filter might be clogged or the fuel pickup.Comment
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MAF map huh what?
Measure pressure under acceleration.
Measure compression in all cylinders.Comment
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