Things that will fail on your AAN/ABY/ADU and strand you

[Ian Simmonds]

I always carry an AA membership card and a chip on both shoulders... I find both very useful in breakdowns.

[UrS4boy]

Coils - Hope all is well UrS4boy

3 1.8t coil packs are in the left hand boot cubby.

Things are good, thanks.

[UrS4boy]

I always carry an AA membership card and a chip on both shoulders... I find both very useful in breakdowns.

I carry the British Columbia Canada equivalent BCAA card in my wallet. "Premier" status, good for five 160 km tows per year. Have not used it in years (serp belt tensioner split once (20 km to my mechanic) and fuel pump died once (that one was ugly since I was in Sooke (where europeanme (Mike)) on Vancouver Island (100 km and a ferry ride from my mechanic = tow 30 km to Victoria Audi dealer = owwwwwch)

[Ilkorin]

Can I confirm which of these items is applicable to the 3B engine?

1. The G6 fuel pump, 8A0906091G - YES
2. The 034905161 G40 cam position sensor - ???
3. The coolant "T" at the back of the head - NO (I have no climate control)
4. Turbo coolant return line N0202621 - YES
5. After-run coolant pump. 034965561C - ???
6. Serpentine Belt - NO, but replace belts individually
7. Coolant adapter 034121143E - ???
8. The oil pressure switch 056919081E - YES
9. Ignition Switch 4A0905849B - YES

[Smiley]

I have changed everything on that list except number 7

I changed #7 twice, *** thing

[UrS4boy]

Can I confirm which of these items is applicable to the 3B engine?

1. The G6 fuel pump, 8A0906091G - YES
2. The 034905161 G40 cam position sensor - ???
3. The coolant "T" at the back of the head - NO (I have no climate control)
4. Turbo coolant return line N0202621 - YES
5. After-run coolant pump. 034965561C - ???
6. Serpentine Belt - NO, but replace belts individually
7. Coolant adapter 034121143E - ???
8. The oil pressure switch 056919081E - YES
9. Ignition Switch 4A0905849B - YES

2. = Yes, you have a Hall sensor in the dizzy, they will fail, just maybe not as often as in an AAN/ABY/ADU. If so, I have this DIY for you:
http://12v.org/urs/ReplacementOfTheH...istributor.pdf

5. = Yes, 034965561C

7. = Yes, but it depends on the VIN of your car. Up to NA005118 it is 034121143. Starting at NA005119, it is 034121143E, like the AAN/ABY/ADU. No. 7 is also called a "connecting socket".

[Ilkorin]

Excellent! Thanks for that!

Looks like I have lots to do... I hear the early 3B might have a metal #7? I'll probably replace anyways as that will probably be rusty!

[UrS4boy]

2. = Yes, you have a Hall sensor in the dizzy, they will fail, just maybe not as often as in an AAN/ABY/ADU. If so, I have this DIY for you:http://12v.org/urs/ReplacementOfTheH...istributor.pdf 5. = Yes, 034965561C 7. = Yes, but it depends on the VIN of your car. Up to NA005118 it is 034121143. Starting at NA005119, it is 034121143E, like the AAN/ABY/ADU. No. 7 is also called a "connecting socket".

I have updated the original post to include the above notes about the 3B.

[Henkjan]

add specifically for the 3B the plastic dizzy gear wheel

[UrS4boy]

add specifically for the 3B the plastic dizzy gear wheel

Thanks, I've added a note that effect under the G40 Hall Sender section.

[A80Avant]

Nice write up.

Done all of them, some a couple of times.

My train of thought is always replace them slightly before their manufacturer changing time, and they should be fine.
Never had any issues with any of the above leaving me stranded, and by now, i can tell a few noises that dont sound right!

The coolant pipe on the block(7), just get the alloy one and forget.
I recently had the coolant pipe (the one with the temp.sensor) create a tiny hole on one of it's bends, and it is a samco hose as well. I guess that hose lasted about 5-6 years then. It is getting replaced with a new one which is a bit more heavy duty with some custom tape around it.

Finally i will add that the vaccum and boost hoses will give you a pain in the butt with tiny leaks, injectors as well, and if you get a boost gauge, good luck starring at it and ever so often trying to find out why its not reaching the desired boost,as a tiny boost leak will always be lurking around there..
Solution: replace all hoses once and make sure everything is tight. Do the leak test once and hope for the best!

[ChrisAudi80]

While the UrS4/early UrS6 viscous fan bearing is different than the later UrS6 viscous fan bearing, the later bearing is NOT cast into the bracket. It is PRESSED into the bracket as detailed here:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/33332.phtml

Dave F.

I would like to add to this. The replaced bearing went bad recently.
I managed to get an UrS4 style bracket with replaceable bearing from s2_wot.

If you do this on an S6 it requires a 7mm shim plate on the nose of the pulley.

As an FYI, you can drive approx 20 minutes/30kms on a fully charged battery, if you switch off all other current consumers.

[veneto rs2]

Hi all.

Just did my hall sensor monday because the little ****** decided to give up...... logically middle of august it's the right time.

Some insights....

First symptom was recovery mode with 0.5 bar overboost, stupidly I switch off the key trying to get a running reset on the ECU and got stck with a dead motor in the middle of a roundabout.
Tried few times to crank and fortunately i got it running after three four attempts.
Got the car back home in my garage switch it off and no luck to get it back running.
Put the VAG tool and got the Hall error together with 537/561 erased the errors and the car started back easily (did this three times)

Now I'm wondering it's the VAG working to get you out of the problem of the Hall sender by reseting/erase the error?
Or was I just lucky?

Stefano

P.S.
Suggestion..... if you get recovery mode and you're stranded far away from home DO NOT turn off your engine.

[UrS4boy]

G40 Hall Sender Failure and Replacement Info

...Now I'm wondering it's the VAG working to get you out of the problem of the Hall sender by reseting/erase the error? Or was I just lucky?
P.S. Suggestion..... if you get recovery mode and you're stranded far away from home DO NOT turn off your engine.

Yes you were lucky. I don't think the ECU can reset the G40 cam position Hall sender. It is pretty much a passive device, sending the signal whenever the opening in the shutter wheel goes by.

There are lots of cases where the G40 can be revived for one or two more starts before it fails completely. One of the tricks to revive the G40 is to pour cold water down the back of the cam belt cover (release the two clips and pry it open at the top and pour the water down behind the cam sprocket. The water seems to cool the G40 down enough that the device recovers, at least temporarily, and you get one more start. At that point, you better drive the car directly home or to your mechanic because it likely won't restart again without replacing the G40.

G40 info:http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22580.phtml

G40 replacement info:http://picasaweb.google.com/persing/...orReplacement#

[prj]

I lent a UrS4 from a friend last weekend, as someone rear-ended my daily...
Felt lack of power, but also fuel was low, so pulled in a petrol station between two major cities in the middle of nowhere.

After filling it up - no-start.
Pull the laptop out, hall sender fault... oh great.

Timing did not seem to have slipped, and luckily I found a piece of copper wire.
Disconnect the hall sender connector, put the missus behind the steering wheel and ask her to crank the car.
Meanwhile doing rhytmic tapping between pin 2 & 3 on hall sender connector.

Wroom, the car fired up, and I could continue...

Sometimes I hate these cars so much...