Audi RS2 timing or belt question

[minim]

Put the keyfob in to disable it. If it comes back on after a few seconds then start the engine first, then try connecting with vagcom.

It will be really hard to start it now as I don't have the cam belt mounted Would prolly crush a few valves in the attempt so hope I can manage to get it connected before I put the whole thing back together again

[minim]

Immobilizer was the trick Thanks again guys. Unfortunately I didn't have a hall sensor error.

Tuesday,13,August,2013,16:41:06:08464
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.6 (x64)
Data version: 20121223


Chassis Type: 8C - Audi 80/S2 B4
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 25

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Part No: 8A0 907 551 B
Component: 2,2l R5 MOTR.RHV RS2D03
VCID: 264348F7C2C61D287A7

1 Fault Found:
00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
03-00 - No Signal
Readiness: N/A

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 4A0-907-379.lbl
Part No: 4A0 907 379
Component: Bremsen-Elektronik
Shop #: BB 37175
VCID: E8DF86CF88524B5808B

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: None
Part No: 8A0 820 043 E
Component: Klima-Vollautomat D51
Coding: 00050
Shop #: WSC 07234
VCID: 1F4D5D139D9CCCE0391

1 Fault Found:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------

[twoqu]

Have you disconected the battery since working on it?
The fault code was just a possibilty really.

[minim]

Yeah the HVAC Message is prolly because of that. I disconnected it to work safe

[twoqu]

Ah! I think in that case you have erased the fault code memory so we will never know!
Out of interest the blue plug is a legacy for blinking out codes. That 00513 code will always appear without the ngine running.
Should have read the ecu for faults before starting to take it apart in hindsight . Anyway lets hope the new stuff sorts your issue out.

[minim]

I can assemble it again and start it to get a readout for fun. I can start the engine without the servo/tandem pump mounted right (all the hoses are open)?

[twoqu]

Obviously had a fault code been stored then it might have given us a clue. Can't see the point of reasembly just to try and prove something that is irrelevant now. We have determined it has the ABY/AAN pulley so its never going to be right until that has been corrected.

[minim]

Yeah I should have done the readout first but i didn't get the plug before today and I didn't plan to do this swap at all. The plan was to change the oil seal on the crank but then I noticed that the timing was off and this problem showed up. Along the way I also found a leaking servo pump so that's why it's removed atm.

There is no point in doing it other than satisfying myself with getting a fault message cleared just hope I don't get the message now that I put the correct pulley back on.

[Sonic]

Read on from this page (Post 1364)to see how the position of the hall sender rotor can have effects:

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34052&page=91

So it need to be in a plausible position according to what the ecu expects. Oviously that is a heavily modified example but the principle is the same.

Just to clarify my issue was with fitting an RS2 exhaust cam to my ABY setup, and setting it up with a variable cam pulley rather than an RS2 one.

Even with experienced guys we ended up going through the same discussions as the previous few pages

Setting up the variable pulley took several attempts to get it in the right location, given that we didn't have an RS2 one to compare against. Placing it in the wrong location and having the window out didn't cause any problems that might damage the car, it just meant it didn't boost correctly by retarding the ignition timing.

The gear-shift issue was because we had it very slightly out of the window, so the belt-flat on gear-shift caused the ECU to trip out without logging an error

[twoqu]

Yeah I should have done the readout first but i didn't get the plug before today and I didn't plan to do this swap at all. The plan was to change the oil seal on the crank but then I noticed that the timing was off and this problem showed up. Along the way I also found a leaking servo pump so that's why it's removed atm.

There is no point in doing it other than satisfying myself with getting a fault message cleared just hope I don't get the message now that I put the correct pulley back on.

Welcome to the wonderful world of S/RS2 ownership!
The four rings on the grill represent the number of zeros added to the amount you thought you were going to spend.

[minim]

Welcome to the wonderful world of S/RS2 ownership!
The four rings on the grill represent the number of zeros added to the amount you thought you were going to spend.

Hehe It's not only with S/RS2! My allroad has the same formula I think.

[minim]

Alright All the parts I ordered have now arrived. Just picked them up and are in to search for the specification of how hard the cam pulley is to be tightened again (how many Nm, found it, 65Nm). Took a picture of the new pulley if you guys want to do a comparison. I will try to do it later on but need to see if I can put the car together and if everything works now with these new parts.

Comparing with both parts in my hands I can't really tell the difference on the pulleys but I do hope there are some or all this is a waste

[twoqu]

Just quickly compare them by aligning the TDC mark and placing one other the other. That should indicate whether the keyway is in a different position or the inner rotor ring.
If you grabbed those manuals the torque should be in there maybe in one of the exploded diagrams. Should be the same on all variants ABY/ADU/AAN.
All we have to do then is wait for Dave to draw his red lines all over the pic then we will have solved another RS2 myth. So if it not different then at least you have contributed something back in which is more than some do! You will also receive a credit from Dave.

[twoqu]

It says 65NM for the AAN. Don't forget to hold the pulley stationary so that you are putting the key under stress!
A quick non scientific anaylsis seems to imply that the slot on the rotor is in a different place which is what we had hoped for.

[minim]

Yeah found it in the AAN workshop manual. I also noticed that a DIY manual said 200Nm+180 degrees on the crank bolt but in the AAN manual it said 350Nm w/spanner and 450Nm without. I don't have a torque tool that goes past 210Nm tho so will have to use the DIY spec of 200Nm+180degrees. Let me know if that will be wrong

Will do a comparison like you said now when I go to the garage. I'll update once I've done it.