Found my boost leak finally

[newsh]

Yes, fix leak and test again!

Also how's your DV? Is it a plastic one? Has it rubbed through on the chassis rail or back of headlight bracket? Pull the pipe off the front of the front of the IM and suck on it to make sure the diaphagm is not split.

[andyg plym]

Yes, fix leak and test again!

Also how's your DV? Is it a plastic one? Has it rubbed through on the chassis rail or back of headlight bracket? Pull the pipe off the front of the front of the IM and suck on it to make sure the diaphagm is not split.

I have a forge in there, looks like it's test time again ! Getting annoyed with the ecu resetting itself too, I've ruled out it being knackered as I tried it in my mates urs4 and it flew. I've heard it could also be an earthing problem etc I have only heard if one other forum member having this issue so I've contacted them to see how they fixed it.

Has anyone ever heard of this before? I'm sure the likes if prj has....

Anyone with a spare rs2 spec ecu that I can borrow just to finally rule it out ?

[Rusty]

O ring is the dames as for a water pump seal

As above (and covered in urs4boy's boost leak thread) bung the inlet to breather and do the full system.

My boost leak test kit has the bung on the big one, it's the only way to do a proper test.

Gkad you found it

[newsh]

Andy, check the bundle of earth wires bolted to the IM down below the FPR. Give em a good wiggle and a tug.

Any fault codes?

[Monkeymagic]

I would yhink your tacho and boost leak are unrelated.
Does the car cut power when driven on the road? Im just wondering if its your boost gauge that makes you think you arent getting full boost. I dont have a boost gauge ( i know ) but i like oem look. However when mine did have leaks it nearly put me through the screen a few times. Since all leaks were adressed it pulls perfectly. Therefore i just leave it alone..

[andyg plym]

Tried a different boost gauge and the earths have been checked, cheap eBay vagcom lead set throws up control module memory error but not every time and to be honest I'm not convinced on my Chinese. Vagcom. It worked lovely on the other car

[saltinot]

O ring is the dames as for a water pump seal

As above (and covered in urs4boy's boost leak thread) bung the inlet to breather and do the full system.

My boost leak test kit has the bung on the big one, it's the only way to do a proper test.

Gkad you found it

The intercooler to crossover o-ring is the same part number as the thermostat housing seal. The water pump one seal is too large.

[andyg plym]

ok so update on this: i have for the last few days been running on standard rs2 chips, just to see if my boost/running issues would be eliminated.
i fitted the rs2 stock chips and the engine seems to rev really well, it revs fully to the red line and the rev counter does not stutter at all so i presume the ecu is not resetting itself BUT now boost is only going to 0.7 bar!

Tonight i did a boost leak test and the only leak i found came from the rear breather pipe that sits at the back of the rocker cover and is part of the long pipe that goes to the near side of the block for crank case ventilation.

Now if on my TS chips i get 1.5 bar you would of thought that the RS2 chips would be fine for 1.3 but i am only getting 0.7 ???

Going to be checking all the ignition side tomorrow, anyone ever had this?

[prj]

Make a picture of your MAP sensor inside the ECU.

[andyg plym]

[prj]

Well yeah, that thing could be a problem. I only use Motorola and Bosch sensors, not VMAP's. Had some limp mode issues with the VMAP.

[andyg plym]

Well yeah, that thing could be a problem. I only use Motorola and Bosch sensors, not VMAP's. Had some limp mode issues with the VMAP.

any way to check? i did have one of yours originally prj but my ecu guy chose to fit the vmap instead.

have you ever come across an intermittent problem on these? i tried the ecu in a mates urs4 and it flew, 1.9 bar.

[andyg plym]

Been at it again today and thought I'd check some of the ignition side of it.

Found number 3 plug was loose for a start.

Removed the plugs and despite the fact they have done less than 5k miles I reckon they'd not been changed for 6 years ! They were a little on the sooty side so thought whilst I was there I'd renew.

Coil packs were fine but the wiring was brittle here and there so out came the insulation tape and I tightly wrapped all the wires.

Now the results are interesting I decided to put the Ts chips back in to see if there was any improvement, instantly got 1.7 bar (almost there !) but back has come the ecu resetting itself and the tachometer dropping momunterily.

Got some lovely off throttle bangs and popping going on


Final thing is at present the mfts is unplugged .....

Anyone with any bright ideas ?

[andyg plym]

Anyone ? Like Johnny 5 says "need input !"

[rynaqui]

Not sure at all but what plugs are you using? How old are your coilpacks and is the power progressive or jumpy at all? Did you try swapping in a known working RS2 ECU?