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It's not the wire, checked it, tried to move it about no change. Then took the spark plug out, and that hasn't been working at all. I will test the coils and POS.
You should not be driving the car until this is sorted. The way it is now, if I understand the situation, if the sparkplug is not working but you still have that injector still connected electrically, raw fuel is washing down that cylinder, potentially causing more wear there and then overloading the cats with raw fuel, heating them up more than is a good idea.
Here is a post that I did that will allow you to logically go through a sequence that will determine whether the issue is a POS channel or a coil that has failed:
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It's not the wire, checked it, tried to move it about no change. Then took the spark plug out, and that hasn't been working at all. I will test the coils and POS.
I would try and put a multimeter with a beep funktion on the wires, from fuse to connector and from connector to ECU pin. Alternatively inspect the wire very carefully where it goes into the loom near the injector, this is where it gets the most bending around and the wire insulation is hardened from heat cycling. In fact, you may be able to find the break by letting the car idle then moving the wires till it comes back to life. if you think you've found the break then strip back the wire carefully to expose it, solder and sleeve.
I will try checking the ECU, and swap N75 over tomorrow. At this point I really don't care how much it costs to fix it, I would be lucky to find what is wring with it.
Here's a test worth trying, start the car and let it idle, pull the vac hose off the ECU, you should have a healthy vacuum on it, block it with your finger, you should be able to feel the vacuum.
Connect it back to the ECU and do up the hose clip. Listen carefully to the ecu, it should be silent, if you can hear a hissing then the hose has come off the MAP sensor or split inside the ECU.
In fact, what does you boost gauge read at idle? I wish we'd had a bit more time on Saturday, I should have come out in the car for a drive..
Hmm, well, either the N75 is clicking but not working or the ECU is not happy about sending boost control. I can't think of any more reasons..
Can I put N75 from my dad's 1.8T? I did put it in, but then the injector died, and I thought it was because of the wrong N75, because when I plugged mine back in it ran fine.
Maybe your TPS is not giving WOT signal, that would do it. I think you should be able to read the TPS in Vagcom, measuring blocks, it will probably be called engine load.
Yep number 5 injector seal was leaking badly, there was a leak at the WG banjo connection. We also found a leak at the turbo outlet which we fixed with a new clip and a split in the Maf hose repaired with tape for the moment.
So with Hunker having done the injector seals it should now be leak free. He says it's going much nicer but still only 0.4Bar of boost! What can it be???
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