Test Pressure

[The Spanish]

The WG control hose has to be blocked during a leak test !

Paul

Paul not trying to correct you, but bellow you have Lee's instructions on how to do a pressure test and I can't find anything about any blocking of WG control hose.

Are you completely sure

http://www.designun.com/S2RS2.htm

Test 1: Isolated throttle body

The purpose of Test 1 is to test all hoses in the intake system with the exception of the throttle body hose. This test isolates the cylinders and tests most of the intake hoses in one go. Crankcase blow-by can affect the other tests so this element is eliminated.

Start by removing the hose from the intake pipe as shown in the photo above.

Insert the large solid bung as shown above. Tighten the hose clamp to secure in position.

This gives access to the breather pipe The rubber hose that links the rigid pipe coming from the camshaft cover to the solid pipe that emerges from the turbo compressor feed hose. The breather hose needs plugging to prevent pressurisation of the crankcase. All users who have purchased a pressure kit PKIT80/60 will receive a free bung to add to their kits when they have been manufactured.

For now, plug this hose using something suitable like a ½” socket drive extension as shown.

Now, the pressure adapter can be fitted to the hose that connectos to the MAF. The MAF (Mass Air Flow meter) is attached to the airbox which contains the airfilter. Note: photos used in this sequence were of a car with a non-standard airbox and will be updated in due course. It is worth attaching the pressure adapter last as it frees valuable acces whilst making the other connections. When fitted, tighten up the hose clip to secure.

Now that all elements are in place, pressurise the system (see notes). High pressure is not required for finding leaks. Pressurise the system to around 7-10psi or 0.5 bar. Exact pressure is not needed as leaks will normally be indicated by a hissing sound of escaping air. Very slow pressure decay is not a good indicator of a serious leak and is the result of a leak at very low flow rate. It will be difficult to find such a leak and if extremely small is unlikely to cause any running problems.

If a hissing sound is heard, a leak will be easy to trace. Pinpointing may require a soapy solution over the suspect area.

Replace suspect hose as rubber hose cannot be reliably repaired. Repeat test to see if there are any other leaks.

[Doug_RS2]

The quick and easy way is to not block anything.

Then you start blocking every hose that comes off the main pressure hoses.

[The Spanish]

The quick and easy way is to not block anything.

Then you start blocking every hose that comes off the main pressure hoses.

To sum up. There is nothing wrong with the wastegate and fault can be elsewhere?
Confirmation please

[martinjs]

Try a leak test again but block that pipe to the wastegate.
I'd rule out all the other pipes first before taking the wastegate to bits.
Has the i/c o-ring being replaced with the 'mark h mod' (70mm-60mm reducer pipe)
If not, the bumper needs to come off to get to it, so whilst thats off i would literally take every pipe off and check it.
I wish i had done this way back when i first got my car. Spent loads of £££ at garages trying to find a damn leak.

martin

[wastegates]

The WG control hose has to be blocked during a leak test !

Paul

Ok Paul.
Thanks

[Lee]

I never had a WG that leaked into the exhaust...I have tested many cars and blocking the WG control hose was not necessary. I am not saying it doesn't happen...having said that, every car I tested had a stiffer spring in as part of the remapping procedure. If you suspect a leak, common sense dictates that you isolate the part to check everything else in the system first. It would be pretty labourious to generate instructions for every enentuality adn I was not aware of WGs leaking into ehausts as a normal thing. If the leak is out through the top hose in the WG then suspect the diaphragm.

I did these pressure test kits as a favour to forum members (not a commercial venture) by offering something that was not readily available for a rock bottom price and I had to commit to loads of units to get the prices low. All I wanted at the end of the day was a kit for myself and to get the prices down I spent hundered of pounds so that everyone could get one cheap. The least I could do was to generate some instructions after people asked for them...I will update the instructions with any suggestions so that all forum member can benefit and the I will seek more models of vehicle to make sure that everyone can have a useful reference.

If there are any suggestions to improve the test procedure please PM me, post it here or by email. It will benefit everyone.

[The Spanish]

Thanks for your answer Lee and thank you for all your work

[wastegates]

I never had a WG that leaked into the exhaust...I have tested many cars and blocking the WG control hose was not necessary. I am not saying it doesn't happen...having said that, every car I tested had a stiffer spring in as part of the remapping procedure. If you suspect a leak, common sense dictates that you isolate the part to check everything else in the system first. It would be pretty labourious to generate instructions for every enentuality adn I was not aware of WGs leaking into ehausts as a normal thing. If the leak is out through the top hose in the WG then suspect the diaphragm.

I did these pressure test kits as a favour to forum members (not a commercial venture) by offering something that was not readily available for a rock bottom price and I had to commit to loads of units to get the prices low. All I wanted at the end of the day was a kit for myself and to get the prices down I spent hundered of pounds so that everyone could get one cheap. The least I could do was to generate some instructions after people asked for them...I will update the instructions with any suggestions so that all forum member can benefit and the I will seek more models of vehicle to make sure that everyone can have a useful reference.

If there are any suggestions to improve the test procedure please PM me, post it here or by email. It will benefit everyone.

Thanks lee, for all its work
Carlos

[S2central.net]

Lee & Co - this one merits some more work... I for one have never tried to take apart the WG. Maybe its a simple fact of life that the WG's equipped with the big spring do not leak, and those with stock springs do ????


Lets investigate at sunny Baschurch - my stock WG leaks in this way. Always has... It freaked me out but our Belgian guru said it was normal and not to worry... SUre enough I've seen the same behaviour on other stock spring S2/RS2 WG's.

Would be interesting to see if temporarily fitting a stiffer spring will alter this behaviour.


Paul

[audiman]

Thats odd, when i spoke to him he told me it shouldnt leak, but he may have been refering to my specific setup. Only one way to find out!! Paul we can put my shock absorber type spring in yours and pressure test. Dont drive it tho!! LOL

[wastegates]

Hello, I return to be about to bothering, today I have opened wastegate and I have removed the diaphragm, I have cleaned the bottom, the central axis and have put a washer of 1mm of thickness of supplement................y the thing follows.............se equal saves the air I have tightened the exit of intercooler and was loose again. The question is that now to determined rpm the pressure reaches 1 bar, mainly if goes to few rpm and is above thoroughly then raises 1 bar. Not if sera correct or no. A greeting

[The Spanish]

Hello, I return to be about to bothering, today I have opened wastegate and I have removed the diaphragm, I have cleaned the bottom, the central axis and have put a washer of 1mm of thickness of supplement................y the thing follows.............se equal saves the air I have tightened the exit of intercooler and was loose again. The question is that now to determined rpm the pressure reaches 1 bar, mainly if goes to few rpm and is above thoroughly then raises 1 bar. Not if sera correct or no. A greeting

Translation as always:

I was bothering around with the wastegate, open it check and clenaed everything put a washer on the center to improve tight and reticht somo air lines. Car now reaches 1 bar (before only 0,85) Still not going fully well but and improvement seen.

Translation finish.

SORRY FOR CAP LOCK BUT THIS IS MY PART:
I don't know if the improvement is of the cleaning and tightening or if the washer has stiffen the wastegate spring a little and he is forcing more the turbo.

Answers please

Cheers