Cooling "problem"

[hunker7]

i could try opening the fastener and move the hose about ans see if air escapes.

[RoadKill]

can try

[hunker7]

But why doesn't it overheat?

[GazzaG60]

does it boil over. or even get red hot and pressure up elsewhere.

if not id say its not getting to temp. the gauge is reading wrong maybe.

whats the mfts I had one that read high all the time.

[hunker7]

does it boil over. or even get red hot and pressure up elsewhere.

if not id say its not getting to temp. the gauge is reading wrong maybe.

whats the mfts I had one that read high all the time.

It doesn't boil ove, and hoses are not pressurised. I will go and smash it around properly and see if that helps

[macspring]

It doesn't boil ove, and hoses are not pressurised. I will go and smash it around properly and see if that helps

Doubt that will help !

Needs to be approached logically IMHO.

[hunker7]

It feels like it's not getting up to temperature you know. If that was the case, it should be overheating.

[hunker7]

Even after driving it hard temperature won't climb over 95C. I have a 150 mile drive on Friday, I am scared to damage the engine.

[AndyP]

Are you getting heat out of the heater??

[hunker7]

Burns your hands hot.

[newsh]

Seems like it's working fine to me. The temp gauge should never go above 95, does the fan kick in?

[hunker7]

Seems like it's working fine to me. The temp gauge should never go above 95, does the fan kick in?

I don't have a fan, i have the viscous one running off drive belt. Lower rad hose is cold so is the hose that goes onto thermostat housing so it's not opening. I have maybe 5 or 6 liters of fluid in from 9l total capacity

[newsh]

Ah, weird

If there's no bleed screws you'll have to ease the hose off the top of the rad to let the air out. Is there a small bore pipe from the top of the rad to the expansion tank? Maybe this is blocked? Also wondering if the bottom of the rad is sludged up, but then I would have thought you'd boil up..

Did you take off the bottom hose? If not then the system will not have been empty anyway.

[hunker7]

Ah, weird

If there's no bleed screws you'll have to ease the hose off the top of the rad to let the air out. Is there a small bore pipe from the top of the rad to the expansion tank? Maybe this is blocked? Also wondering if the bottom of the rad is sludged up, but then I would have thought you'd boil up..

Did you take off the bottom hose? If not then the system will not have been empty anyway.

There is a smaller hose going to expansion tank radiator and head., after driving it hard I got some pressure in that hose, but nowhere near as much as it should be, remember having same bleed problems with a V6. I used lower rad hose to empty the system so system was empty. I will heat it up tomorrow and try undo the fastener on matrix hose where there should be a bleed screw.

[macspring]

If because you've emptied it a few times and therefore there is just water in it until you are happy to invest in filling it up with coolant, and the under tray is off it. I would drain it and run the hose pipe through the rad to check it is isn't blocked / sludge up. Probably original as they don't seem to break as often as an S2 Radiator.

Also then remove the thermostat and run the hose pipe water through the matrix and all of the other pipe runs and then put it all back together and get a pipe that has the built in bleed nipple if you car is missing yours and then bleed it and see how you get on.

There two bleed "nipples" on my UrS6 cars, one at the very edge of the passenger side of the 'waterbox' / scuttle, and the second under the black plastic scuttle cover in the middle / just slightly left of centre as you stand at the bumper and look into the engine bay.

I found these loosen better when they are hot, so gently loosen the screw until it just starts to leak and stop, and then when the car has fully cooled down they can be fully opened because they are looser, and then a dab of vaseline on the threads before screwing it back into place stops it from seizing, as I have broken the screwhead clean off while fiddling with them in the breakers yard on dead cars. YMMV.

I would have also thought that you need to use a multi meter on the MFTS and the temperature sensor at the back of the head to ensure that you are getting the true temperature reading.

Best wishes.