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Thanks I'll drop the start out and have a look, or remove the ignition sensor and turn the engine over slowly, if the pin has gone will I have to take the engine out to refit one or can it be done in situ?
Originally posted by GazzaG60
if its 3b yours wont look like that i dont think. thats a dual mass same as aby.
As suggested what I was showing was for a dual mass flywheel. I keep forgetting that 3Bs only had single mass (we didn't get any 3B cars, C3 or S2s in Canada, eh?).
In any event, G4 crank position pins have been found and rewelded to dual mass flywheels before, through the starter hole, i.e. no need to panic about having the engine out.
YET.
You might want to read this on G4 and G28 maintenance:
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RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
many thanks for all your help it's greatly appreciated, I haven't had chance to check anything today but tomorrow I will be, I'll check the pin on the flywheel, if that all appears okay I may have a look at the cam position sensor? Could this of been damaged when the cam belt slipped and damaged the valves? I have a good 3b head there so could always swap the sensors?
One thing to mention is that the timing marks should align with NO1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke.
The timing mark on the flywheel (you are using that one rather than the front pulley right) will align twice for one camshaft mark. So its possible to get that muddled.
You should be able to determine this by removing at least No1 sparkplug and either use a bit of hose to hear the air escaping or place something above the camcover that will move when the air rushes past like an expensive receipt!
Replacement of the Hall Sender on a 7A, 3B, and early AAN
Originally posted by Tomhorner
if that all appears okay I may have a look at the cam position sensor? Could this of been damaged when the cam belt slipped and damaged the valves? I have a good 3b head there so could always swap the sensors?
3B G40 cam sensor is in the distributor, not on the head like a later AAN and the ABY and ADU.
Some reading for you:
Replacement of the Hall Sender on a 7A, 3B, early AAN:
Look at the top of the bell housing, near the 2 flywheel sensors, you'll find the small window. There's a web set back in it. Dizzy cap off so you can see the metal cup with the hall window in it below the rotor arm. Drop the car in 3rd gear with the handbrake off, roll the car forwards till the mark on the dizzy cup lines up with the one on the dizzy body. Looking down at the bell housing window you should see a 0 (zero) on the flywheel which is half obscured by the cursor web. This is correct timing.
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RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
Yank you all for the help, that's how I've timed the engine already, number one at tdc, zero half covered in the inspection window on the bell housing as to the audi manual, cam shafts so two dots in each one line up level and the pully when the cam covers on lines up spot on with the marks on the pully and cam cover, then the dizzy lined up with the outer body on the timing marks, if I was getting a spark and fuel then she wasn't firing I would look more into the timing but seen as it seems okay and I'm not getting a spark thougt I would find that problem first?
What's the sensor that screws in to the back of the cylinder head with a plug on? Always thought that was a cam shaft position sensor, remember while ago when I unplugged this she wouldn't fire..
What's the sensor that screws in to the back of the cylinder head with a plug on? Always thought that was a cam shaft position sensor, remember while ago when I unplugged this she wouldn't fire..
This one (below)? If so, that is the G62 Coolant Temperature sensor, used by the ECU and nothing else.
G62 Coolant Temp sensor info and reasons why it is important
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RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
After taking what skin was on my hands back off taking the start motor off, I can now see that the pin has sheeted off that the sensor needs, so couple of questions, what holds the pins in? are they easy to get hold of? is the position of the pin essential or could I drill a hole inline, under the existing one to fit a new one or use say a roll pin of the same size?
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