Got 8 fault codes on newly built engine, help please.

[220bhp]

Knock sensor will pull boost, and don't always throw a code. Torque on these is very important.
I had an issue with these NGK plugs. They would not work well in my RS2 speck 3b.
Went back to bosch. I think one or two others on the forum had issues.
Quality control on plugs seems to be a problem at the moment.

[k.alle]

Perhaps i'll try the old Bosch plugs from the other engine next weekend just to try.

I tried disconnecting the MAF during idle and it made little to no difference?
Could the MAF be the villain here?

[220bhp]

Maf, or more likely the connection can cause poor running.
Newsh had lots of issues with the connector. There's a thread on here about it.

[k.alle]

OK, I'll look into that.

I pulled the boots for the injectors and had a look, they have seen better days. No 3 injector connector was coming apart.
I need to rectify this, regardless of its impact on the idle.

Is the injector loom a detachable harness?
I'm not at the car any longer so cant have a look my self.

How do I replace it?
Can I buy a new loom from Audi?
Do I need to make one my self?
If so, what parts, wires and tools do I need?
Any guides for this?

[newsh]

The pin holders in the injector plugs are replaceable, you just pop the pins out and slide them into a new pin housing. I did this recently using parts from a spare loom. Andy did it with new plug housings. A pin extractor tool is good but it can be done with a bent paper clip.

[newsh]

There's some pics of my injector connector pin housings on this page. http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...t=4476&page=40

If you pull the rubber boot off the back of the connector you will see that the pin housing can slide out of the plug body if you release a small tab.

[k.alle]

Thanks for the info newsh.
Going to have a longer look in your thread later.

My concern is also the over all health of the wiring to the injectors.
It is stiff as heck, it must be from all the heat cycles.
So ideally id like to replace it with all new wires and plugs.
Am I just being silly thinking about it?
That's why i wondered if the injector harness is detachable.

[newsh]

Injector wires go all the way back to the ECU.. I'm thinking of doing the same myself, as yousay the wiring is brittle and the insulation is cracked in places.. I think the best thing is to cut them all back to where it's still flexible, near the throttle body, and splice new wires in with new pins crimped on the ends. At least it's a simple job, just a pair of wires to each injector. I wonder if Alex would be up for making replacement looms? You still need to solder and heat-shrink where it grafts on though.

[k.alle]

Injector wires go all the way back to the ECU.. I'm thinking of doing the same myself, as yousay the wiring is brittle and the insulation is cracked in places.. I think the best thing is to cut them all back to where it's still flexible, near the throttle body, and splice new wires in with new pins crimped on the ends. At least it's a simple job, just a pair of wires to each injector. I wonder if Alex would be up for making replacement looms? You still need to solder and heat-shrink where it grafts on though.

Ah so they do.
Perhaps I should make do with changing connectors for now, until Alex has come up with a harness to mate up with the healthy one
Gonna look for connector & rubber boot part no's tomorrow.

[k.alle]

OK, so I'm at it again.

I have changed boots and connectors to the injectors, made a little difference but still rough on idle.
I've sprayed oxide cleaner in essentialy all engine connectors, which seemed to cure the Knock Sensor 2 issue.

Measured voltage at injectors which came out ~14v on all of them.
Lambda is regulating as it should, jumping from sub 0.5v and above 0.5v with warm engine and revs @ ~2-2500 rpm.

Cleaned and put in my old Bosch spark plugs which are tried and tested with last engine, made only a little difference.
However when removing my NGK plugs the no 1 plug (furthest to the front) was very sooty, the others looked nice.
This implies I have a spark/fuel issue at cylinder no 1 right?

What should I try next?

[k.alle]

If the cam belt were to be a tooth out, could this cause my issues?

Would the ECU allow ~1.4bar boost with cam belt misaligned?

ADU cams and pulley and 7A flywheel on chipped ABY software is OK right?

I have MOT next weekend and im at a loss here.

[UrS4boy]

Missing and Hesitation Diagnostics

Cleaned and put in my old Bosch spark plugs which are tried and tested with last engine, made only a little difference. However when removing my NGK plugs the no 1 plug (furthest to the front) was very sooty, the others looked nice.
This implies I have a spark/fuel issue at cylinder no 1 right?

I can't remember what coils you are running. In any event, you might want to read through this and figure out how to test for a weak coil:

Missing and Hesitation Diagnostics

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22611.phtml

[k.alle]

I have the original ABY ignition system.

Thanks for the URL, helpful as always Dave

[k.alle]

I did check the timing marks before I left the car.
Took a couple of pictures.
Is the FW timing mark correct when it looks like this?
The cam pulley is even harder to take a photo of, it is so relative to where I stand.
Heres my best efforts anyway.
If the FW mark is right I need to move the cam pulley to the left right?
uploadfromtaptalk1432457443855.jpguploadfromtaptalk1432457464463.jpg

[k.alle]

I see the FW mark is a bit unclear, half of the 0 is hidden. 7A flywheel.