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ABY coolant won't circulate

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  • ABY coolant won't circulate

    I've tried anything from my imagination and I can't figure this out. Help me!

    These symptoms have been present before I bought the car. I thought a new water pump, thermostat and coolant reservoir cap would solve the problem but no. I've also bled the systems several times with no luck. Radiators have been flushed and they have no clogs.

    Basically the coolant just won't flow. I have let the engine idle so that the temps rise to normal and beyond. Upper coolant hose from the top to the radiator is hot. But bottom hoses in both the main and the aux rad are cold. Blower gives just slightly warm not hot air to cabin.

    I have verified that the thermostat actually opens in boiling water.

    I have seriously no idea anymore what could cause the problem.

  • #2
    If the blower isn't hot it sounds like the heater matrix is blocked for a start. My ABY had radiator sealant put in it and the matrix was blocked as a result.

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    • #3
      To fully get the air out I found you had to try a couple of different things. Firstly you have to unscrew the reservoir and raise it up as much as possible and start the car with the cap off, squeezing ALL hoses as the car warms up to try and burp any air out. This will get you about 90% the way there in my experience. To get the last bit of air out I waited until the car was cool, unscrewed the bleed nipple on one of the matrix feed pipes up near the bulkhead and essentially back filled it through that while the engine was running. Be careful while removing and re-installing that nipple as its only made of plastic and easy to break! If that doesn't work then I don't know I'm afraid. These things are a real pain to bleed and you have to persevere to get it 100% right. You might even have to put one end of the car up on ramps/axle stands to help get the air out....good luck though!

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      • #4
        Originally posted by montyrs2 View Post
        If the blower isn't hot it sounds like the heater matrix is blocked for a start. My ABY had radiator sealant put in it and the matrix was blocked as a result.
        Forgot to mention that the previous owner said that he changed the matrix. I'll try bypassing it to see if thats causing my problems. I doubt it but we'll see.

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        • #5
          The thermostat opens at the correct temperature, but, it has been fitted the wrong way around? Is the temperature of your engine 'ferociously' hot?

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          • #6
            The stat should be the right way around, "tail" of it facing the block. I have not run the engine to the point where it overheats radically, but I can tell that somethings wrong.

            How hard should the coolant flow through the matrix when idling? I mean I can the matrix outlet hose almost completely off and catch the flowing coolant from the matrix back to the hose with no spilling. If the matrix restricts the flow but isn't completely clogged, can this prevent proper flow in the radiators?

            I'll bypass the heater matrix when I have the time and see what happens.

            Appreciate all the help I thought I'd get this thing back on the road right after the timing belt change. Guess things don't always happen the way you thought with these

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            • #7
              Matrix bypass didn't solve my problem entirely, but when I let the engine idle long enough the bottom rad hoses did get warm. Is it possible that a cheap replacement MFTS gives me faulty temp gauge readings? I have to crosscheck all temp sender readings with VCDS when my cable arrives.

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              • #8
                Hi, on 3B's with ECC it is is possible to read out coolant temperature on the climate control display, should be possible on the ABY also, search on here for instructions on reading values from ECC panel.
                In my experience the best way to fill up the last bit of the coolant system is to disconnect the left matrix hose viewed from the cabin, fill into the hose until coolant comes out the matrix pipe. The system should then be completely filled, and air will escape to the highest point.
                Leif-Helge
                -91 S2 VEMS and Comp Turbo
                -12 B** 530XD Touring "S2 parts transporter, and daily driver"

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                • #9
                  ABY doesn't have an ac display on UK cars. OP is correct - double check with VCDS...

                  I also had issues with gauge reading from a cheap (Meyle) MFTS. Changed to a Behr one and the guage reads correctly.

                  Thermostat should open at 87 I think... fan on at second mark on gauge (first mark above 90)

                  Good luck!
                  Honda CBR 1100XX Blackbird Turbo....undergoing major changes.....
                  S2 Coupe... bit easier off the line...
                  '03 ZX12-R daily hack.... lots of nice bolt ons...

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                  • #10
                    I discovedes about the ac display possibilities a day after buying that vcds cable No worries though, I have two VAG cars parked on the driway so it will come in handy. I'll hook up the matrix hoses and take the car for a spin when I have time. Then we'll see what the temperatures really are.

                    Where do you source those behr ones?

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                    • #11
                      Damn these touch screens! Sorry for the typos, chrome won't let me edit the posts.

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                      • #12
                        Bleeding and the Meyle MFTS could be the issues.

                        But to draw a starting line in the sand, and start to go through the cooling system methodically, disconnect the matrix and run a hose pipe in one end and see does it freely flow out the other end, and also while the cooling system is apart re-check both the main radiator and auxiliary radiator separately - Just my suggestions, but as mentioned, it may be a combination of the MFTS and airlocks.

                        Best wishes, post the cause / cure in due course.





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                        • #13
                          I have flushed both main and aux rads and they flow free. I will put cleaner in the heater matrix and flush it thoroughly and then connect the hoses back.

                          I think that there should be no airlocks anymore. I have filled the coolant system by pouring coolant straight to the hoses VERY slowly, then topping up the reservoir and raising it up and finished with opening the bleed screw from main rad until just coolant comes out. Also disconnected the matrix hose and let all air come out. Then I let it ran with the reservoir raised and cap off and squeezed the hoses till my arms hurt

                          I'll post about any progress.

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                          • #14
                            It sounds like you should've cracked it this time. As I said before, these things really are a pig to bleed properly and it takes quite a bit of faffing too. You'll probably find that even after going through all this you'll still need to top up the reservoir periodically as everything settles while driving then it'll be fine
                            Keep an eye on the temperature gauge for a couple of weeks too after all this...just in case!

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Antsa View Post

                              Where do you source those behr ones?
                              Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.de/itm/400954747764

                              Got mine here... very quick delivery...
                              Honda CBR 1100XX Blackbird Turbo....undergoing major changes.....
                              S2 Coupe... bit easier off the line...
                              '03 ZX12-R daily hack.... lots of nice bolt ons...

                              Comment

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