Audi s2 3b won't start PLEASE HELP

[Stealthacq]

Al check the g4 now thanks guys

[Stealthacq]

Looks like am going to owe a fee beer tokens out lol

[Stealthacq]

Hiya I have checked pinout 8 and I do have a signal on the first stroke so Al try get it timed up with the cam correct and see how much out it is. Ta

[twoqu]

There is a bit of tolerence in the G40 signal as mine was originally misaligned due to a dizzy replacement. It did however throw a code to give me a clue unlike yours!

[Mikes2]

I always ignore the mark on the front timing belt guard as it's not accurate enough.

Set your flywheel 0 mark to be half visible in the bellhousing window. That is your reference mark that should always be used first.

Remove the front timing belt cover and also remove the distributor cap. If the flywheel mark is correct, your cam mark and rotor arm should also all line up. If not you can remove the belt by loosening the water pump and realign as required.

But if you are getting spark and fuel injectors firing, your timing must be ok.

[twoqu]

It sounds like the injectors are not being triggered although that could be verified by removing them from the engine as a previous member sugested and having taken necessary precautions, observe whether they operate.
From that PICO link its suggests that the injectors were not being triggered and effectively it was a G4/G40 sync issue caused mechanically by a sheared crank pulley.

[twoqu]

One last suggestion is to check Pin 14 to the inlet manifold earth wires. That is also interconnected within the ecu to Pin 19 but its suspiciously close to a few injector pins.

[Stealthacq]

Quite interesting I got a signal from the g40 but should the signal go up and below the axis? As I get a little flick up and it goes below quite a lot. Al try and get the picture on. I was altering the dizzy by hand while my son started it and I got it to the point that it opened all injectors for a single fire up and stopped.
I Defo Herd all the injectors open one cycle.
The crank sensor is new by the way.
Thanks for your help

[Stealthacq]

Quite interesting I got a signal from the g40 but should the signal go up and below the axis? As I get a little flick up and it goes below quite a lot. Al try and get the picture on. I was altering the dizzy by hand while my son started it and I got it to the point that it opened all injectors for a single fire up and stopped.
I Defo Herd all the injectors open one cycle.
The crank sensor is new by the way.
Thanks for your help

[twoqu]

As far as I understand the G40 is fed a 5V supply from the ecu. As the rotor window passes the sensor it should drop to 0V and back up to 5V. If you look carefully at those waveforms scale it seems to reflect that.
The G4 does go negative then positive but the G40 is a hall effect not an inductive sensor.

[Stealthacq]

I know the signal green wire is pinout 8
Al check the voltage is correct
It must be a faulty hall as it tries to fire and stops.
Is the dizzy on the 7a the same as I ha e this car as a donor

[Stealthacq]

I know the signal green wire is pinout 8
Al check the voltage is correct
It must be a faulty hall as it tries to fire and stops.
Is the dizzy on the 7a the same as I ha e this car as a donor

[Stealthacq]

Mind you if it was weird wrong this may cause it to fire up and stall!?

[twoqu]

Pin 1 is earth back to pin 19 on ecu. So check that back to the inlet manifold.
Pin 2 is signal back to pin 8 (5V or 0V)
Pin 3 is reference 5V from ecu.
Not sure whether your test light between 1 & 2 will indicate its working when being cranked. Or you may be able to measure the drop from 5v to 0V by exposing the sensor window. Seems a bit old fashioned now you have a scope to play with!

[twoqu]

Think you can interchange the dizzy but they are not identical as the rotor arm is different. You can worry about that issue later when it runs. Should function the same. Have a close look at the connector if you have been in there before.