URQ 1990 20v Injector Rail Banjos

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  • predding
    S2Forum Enthusiast
    • Aug 2009
    • 132
    • Home: United Kingdom Current: France

    #1

    URQ 1990 20v Injector Rail Banjos

    Me again.

    In reassembling the injectors & rail, the banjos leaked but I had used the original aluminium sealing rings (bad practice I know). So I got a set of CU rings and it was actually worse. I took them out and could see under magnification some had poor joint faces across the diameter. So I prepared a set of 4 by using fine emery to make the best ones perfect. Refitted and almost perfect but there is still a slight weep under the front banjo where it faces the rail ie not between banjo and bolt head. You can see from the pics the rail does have some corrosion. The fuel pressure on this rail is immense so the slightest flaw and it wont seal. I also include a pic of a larger joint ring, same ID but would the larger OD help or allow more opportinty for not seating correctly

    Does anyone have an experience / tips / tricks on making this fuel rail face smooth. I seem to be losing the plot on the basics as I get older...

    Cheers
    Attached Files
  • predding
    S2Forum Enthusiast
    • Aug 2009
    • 132
    • Home: United Kingdom Current: France

    #2
    Have refitted original alu rings and dressed rail joint face again but still weeping so next step is to find a new set of alu joints to see if that will sort it. If anyone has any recommendation how to finish the face of the joint, would be welcome. I have been using 240 and 320 grit emery sticks

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    • Tractor Dave
      S2Forum Zealot
      • Dec 2017
      • 6006
      • Country: Wales

      #3
      I was going to say 1000 grit.
      Nothelle S2 Avant
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      • Tractor Dave
        S2Forum Zealot
        • Dec 2017
        • 6006
        • Country: Wales

        #4
        Looking again at your copper washers above, I'm not surprised you had a leak. They are very poor quality. The two right rings have noticeable flaws.
        Nothelle S2 Avant
        Black Ur project
        Silver Rs2 Project gone
        Ocianic Ur project gone
        S2 Coupe project gone
        Urs6 plus project gone

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        • newsh
          S2Forum Obsessed
          • Aug 2003
          • 16226
          • Country: United Kingdom

          #5
          Heat the copper washers over a flame until the flame turns green, immediately drop them straight into water, should be hot enough to hiss and pop. This anneals the copper so it can form to the surface. New copper washers are often not annealed after stamping out and the stamping process work hardens the copper. I often use this method on used copper washers. The old narrow washers are better than the wider ones you buy online these days, purer copper too, just need re-annealing.

          Smear the washers with grease before assembling. A little dab on the banjo bolt threads won’t hurt either.

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          • predding
            S2Forum Enthusiast
            • Aug 2009
            • 132
            • Home: United Kingdom Current: France

            #6
            Thats great TD and newsh - thanks v much for the feedback. I agree - under magnification they are just rubbish, some were OK across the diameter but still had lips on the ID where they had been punched out or whatever. It was these that I was removing. Thanks on the annealing info - really good to know.

            I managed to locate a source for new alu rings; they even look like it could be the original OEM company. Min qty 25 but at least shipping wasnt too bad, they should be here today https://www.elring.us/translate-to-u...luminium-rings

            Will do on the 1200 grit too...Cheers

            Comment

            • predding
              S2Forum Enthusiast
              • Aug 2009
              • 132
              • Home: United Kingdom Current: France

              #7
              Just to close this off, rubbing down with 1200 grit, new alu rings and giving it one almighty final turn on the socket solved it - all dry now. What a palaver...

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