Ordered mine this morning , £3.47ea.
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Injector seats - where to buy?
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I replaced all mine when the IM was off. Fitted with plummers tape but it didnt seen to last on 3 of them, started leaking boost and there was nothing left on the threads. Possibly not torqued up right (small sealey torque wrench was one tool i wish id bought earlier in my project! £25 online). So I got some 'stuff' to lock the threads - cant remember what but needs to work with plastic and the heat.
They do get brittle so I would recommend replacement. Read Mike's recent update if your tempted to use old ones - £20 for 5 plastic inserts in a rip-off but don't scrimp on this one!AUDI - saving Dad's from minivans since 1994
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This is why you shouldn't attempt to replace these with the manifold on the car. I took the seats out of my spare manifold last night, and on 4 out of the 5, the lower section with the hex drive in sheared off. At first I just thought the hex had rounded, but when I pulled the allen key out, the broken part dropped to the floor. If you've got the manifold on the car I don't need to tell you where this will end up, and you'll not know.
What sealant is everybody using when putting the new ones in??sigpic
1991 Audi S2 3B - 2.5 Stroker engine
1997 A6 2.5TDi quattro avant - C4
1976 RD250E / 350LC cafe racer
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Ouch, well worth changing! I've got a set on order, it's just a shame I've got to take the manifold back off. I would of thought that a normal RTV silicone would do fine but I'd like to know what others think.
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I used some low strength loctite on the lower threads and small amount of vag white silicone on the narrower section - where it broke on the insert above.
Had to run a blade over the hex inside the new ones to remove any unwanted thin edges.
Definately worth a trial fit before applying any sealer.
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Tape has worked for me on some occasions, but recently had some issues with it.
I guess depends on which tape you use.
If it was me, I'd use sealant though. Just normal heat resistant sealant seems to work fine. Loctite works as well, just make sure whatever you apply is OK with going through tons of heat cycles without "drying out" / crumbling.
Also, don't pressure test the car right away, as you'll just blow the sealant out. You must let it sit and cure :/
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Mine all came out in 1 piece but when I taped the first one up, I heard it go crack so stopped and did a quick ctrl+z... Managed to refit it dry and will be as careful as possible on removal. Will say a prayer or two the the 4 ringed Gods before I try and remove it...Cheers'en, AndyC
1994 ABY Coupe - Projekt Alpinweiss
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