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OK, can you expand on when that noise occurs, what else is happening during when the noise is made, and try to describe the sound itself.
Perhaps then, knowing the above conditions, that's as good a place as any to start looking for anything that could be possible damage or a noise-maker.
I wasn't clear enough earlier, in saying that by inspection, I meant by specialist, in your exact particular car if possible, not the MOT folks.
The above point also high-lights one difficulty with moving away from stock components, is that if you are not your own mechanic, it will be extremely difficult to be expert enough to ask even a mechanic familiar with your model, to perhaps grasp the finer details of what has been altered, what is still stock, what is the new normal and what is possibly abnormal now. It is much more difficult to be a subject matter expert if you are not the one who put it together.
The above would also be another very good reason to begin to think about considering returning to (or at least very near to) stock conditions as a longer term solution to your separate ride quality concerns, as many other owners, some here on the forum, have also wisely done exactly that, to improve their enjoyment of these cars, and to make the required maintenance of them a lot less problematic.
Along with perhaps being more uncomfortable on imperfect roads, a stiffer suspension is also going to cause more maintenance to be required in the longer-term, as it is harder on the rest of the car also.
PD: yes. I installed other bearing (from oem) between AK MotorSport top mount and coil cap.
Because w/o them, the spring turns and sounds badly a lot, when move the steering wheel.
2PD: tried, tested with them and without those bearings. And no... I tolk about in the past with AKMotorsport and they will be fine, but not...
Metallic top mount's bearing roll perfectly on hand. But when you install the suspension, the system block all together and the spring and it's cap move and turn/roll with the suspension. (don't know if you can understand me, excuse me. English is my third language)
q) You've had noise in your rear suspension, which began after a collision ten years ago, and have not fixed it yet, is this correct?
If yes, then what is the reason this noise is not your first priority? Suspensions must operate silently wouldn't you think, and that it isn't means it is crying out to you, trying to tell you "Listen, I'm bent, worn or broken somewhere, please remove me, dis-assemble everything, inspect everything; find the noise-maker and fix me!".
r) Link below is to the TUV approval papers for the B3 / 89Q version of your KW's, you need the same but the B4 version from KW (even though this B3 version has some use-able info in it), it has some specs your mechanic can check to help confirm your installation is within the KW design intent.
(It is interesting to note that this document confirms Error404's earlier remark that the spring rates are double those of stock is not to far wrong! How one can expect this to ever be comfortable, I just don't see that happening no matter the damping; adjustable or not!)
s) I read the steering arms are re-positioned on the KW struts to account for 30 to 60 mm of lowering. If yours is not lowered to within that range, perhaps you are getting too much bump-steer? The above type applicable doc for your car will help you measure that.
t) Your photos do not confirm that you in fact have a pair of identical front springs; and a pair of identical rear springs. I know this sounds stupid, but do you?
u) Are any of those plastic upper spring perches broken?
v) Are all four tires wearing evenly?
Thanks for the description of your top-mount situation, quite instructive. From my avatar you might guess where I stand on top-mounts.
w) I think you ought to have a lengthy conversation with this fellow (and is his description similar to what your car is doing?):
Hi. I haven't time but yesterday oiled with teflon ptfe all bushes.
put battery, leave all spiders from downside of the car (face palm) and goes to ride some roads.
Well...
the differences was AWESOMES!!
The rebounds was to differents!
Before was like a "turtle closed" bike Fork
Now isn't a perfect suspension but the change is mega awesomely better.
My 9 years old daughter see that.
now the car doesn't bump a lot
The Powerflex Wishbone bushes may be dry and not allowing the suspension to rebound, this would make the car skip sideways in bends and not run level. I’ve had this happen.
It doesn’t show up in the MOT because there’s no play.
I believe they changed the design of the bushes to retain more grease but they still need checking regularly.
Awesome indeed sir. It may be instructive for other readers to know exactly what version of these bushes you have (how old, what colour, P/N's, etc.?).
Has it crossed your mind that if your car came with these when you first got it, that you might get tired of this and replace them with the OEM style?
Thanks to Newsh for also putting up with us hi-jacking his thread!
Awesome indeed sir. It may be instructive for other readers to know exactly what version of these bushes you have (how old, what colour, P/N's, etc.?).
Has it crossed your mind that if your car came with these when you first got it, that you might get tired of this and replace them with the OEM style?
Thanks to Newsh for also putting up with us hi-jacking his thread!
HI!
The bushes are all from Powerflex purple edition since 4 years or 6. And only 1500kms or less at year.
The car was with me for 16 years, now has 26; and they were changed why tired old bushes and for upgrated
Only ones from AKMotorsport are installed on engine, with front bumper's top mounts
M_GORDON what settings for damping and rebound did you use?
Also, what was your finished ride-height?
Honda CBR 1100XX Blackbird Turbo....undergoing major changes.....
S2 Coupe... bit easier off the line...
'03 ZX12-R daily hack.... lots of nice bolt ons...
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