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You have to count 115A is for whole car. Lights, epas, radiator fan, fuel pump approx 18A, gearbox, radio, clusters, etc. Not sure if there is too much room left.
You can ignore things like clusters and the like they are pretty low current. the big items are:
Radiator fan 30A (but only intermittently/non-existent when over 35mph)
Heated rear/front screen 30A (Only used for short periods though)
Heater fan 10A, being generous)
Fuel pump 18A (really? Can you not stage it?)
Engine ECU 10A
EPAS 10A when running idle, peak of 40A?
Stereo 15A (assuming not some bass-thumping muppet mobile)
Headlamps 10A (at night only)
I may have missed some other large loads, do say if so.
But going with those, the only continuous draws add up to ~70A, so well within the current alternator. A lead acid battery can only take 25A at peak for charging (from really quite flat) so you could say maybe 10A for that, but it will only be for a short while when you first start the car.
You need to test the EPAS, as it is critical as to whether it is enough. There are many small cars out there (e.g. Corsa) with EPAS and I guarantee you they don't run 115A+ alternators.
As far as i know epas from Opel has peak around 80amps. I am not driving the car in winter anymore , so its +10amps.radio is some alpine with some JBL speakers, but honestly i rather listening engine sound then radio.
Seems to me like you will be fine, as I say, a peak value is meaningless, you need to know what it is using on average, where you aren't turning the wheel much, or quickly, which is 95% of driving in all honesty.
Will be perfect if i will be safe. Honestly engine is ready and now this issue occurs. Maybe i will swap to Volvo epas as could be connected through Maxx but no sure how many amps epas draw .
Yes, you are right, but now new engine isnt in place, So there is still room to change it/improve it, with engine inside there will be less space to change it. So yeah, always better to have things solved before, but i guess its a life ??
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