Coupe Rear ARB options aka FARB on the rear of a coupe

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  • S2central.net
    replied
    There is a danger of pontificating all too long about these things - nout wrong with that as it doesn't hurt, but it can keep you awake at night. Pheck look at the time...

    Anyway - having been behind Toms car on a 90 right junction - he was making it very easy to provoke pretty aggressive looking oversteer. For me I think its too lairy - just too stiff at the rear.

    I would say Whiteline rear and RS2 front is the best combination... I would change the rear first as that will greatly reduce understeer.

    I guess some folk like MarkH have run the whiteline rear for long enough now that they just get used it and forget how soft the original item was... But then MarkH got bored with 400bhp as well after a wee while - heheh.

    So my advice - invest in the most adjustable version of the Whiteline rear bar... Get to grips with that, then upgrade to RS2 FARB when funds permit... Keep the S2 front bar if you think there is a danger that the Whiteline needs to be stiffer for you.

    Don't forget that a rear LSD (V8 Torsen) might be the added element of driveable oversteer characteristic that is missing from this conversation. Thats the path I am on anyway... Also can't afford to be thinking about whiteline bars right now

    Fuggit - I should be in my kip ...

    Paul

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  • Rusty
    replied
    Anti roll bar / wishbone porn... whatever next!!!

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  • Jon441cc
    replied
    Andy, I'm waiting for Jeffery to start making these for the S2

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  • Rusty
    replied
    Cheapest Saxo rear drop links I can find Ebay Link

    GSF want £18+vat each for them.

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  • Rusty
    replied
    Ross,

    VAG parts and friendly dealer . RS2 ARB has shot up in price recently. These things happen I suppose . Used to be about £100 delivered! Now a LOT more.

    Dan,

    Cheers for the advice. I'm just looking into all the options and though that, as this was done nearly 4 years ago and I can't be the only one interested, I'd drag it all back up for something to do during work!

    Just measured the rear DLs at approx 310mm long, Whiteline spherical DLs 295mm-320mm are £98 from Demon Tweeks. Expensive option over standard itens but would allow for adjustment if you've lowered the car. Was looking for adjustable saxo items but no luck yet.
    Last edited by Rusty; 1 February 2007, 18:25.

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  • S2_Dave
    replied
    I got my adjustable Whiteline RARB from QRS for £105.

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  • Ross
    replied
    Not sure where you're pricing it from (Dealer?) coz I bought the whiteline RARB, RS2 FARB, and new droplinks all-round for IRO £300. That did include one of Bry's £85 specials for the FARB tho.

    PS The Bilstein's rock, floor it round a nice opening bend, say the junction from A34 S to M4 E, and say hello to neutral drift

    Ross

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  • dan_b
    replied
    For what it's worth, I would go the whiteline route if I were you.

    Ask Robatron how the H&R/Konis with RS2 FARB/ Whiteline RARB handles.
    Ask Newsh how uprated dampers on stock springs with the above ARBs.

    IIRC Tom did think the FARB on rear was a step too far.

    If you really want back-end action, consider sticking a torsen diff at the back.

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  • Mark Halligan
    replied
    Originally posted by Jamo
    It feels like a guided bullet Mark! I only wish I didn't live in the City when i had my Coupe setup like that as on Motorway and B-Road runs
    Cheers Jamo

    I am looking forward to getting them fitted, just need to get the rear struts powder coated and on they go.

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  • Rusty
    replied
    Essay (Andrew Casey aged 25)

    Originally posted by 4WheelDrifter
    I'm pretty sure Tom said the front bar on the rear was a step slightly too far. But AFAIK it's pretty simple to do. If you look at the subframes they are pretty much the same front and rear, apart from the obvious diff mount. I'm sure it's just a case of swapping the struts over, as you said.

    BTW, ask Doug about his rear drop link incident at Castle Combe.

    I'll be willing to flog my RS2 front ARB, if you can find a stiffer replacement.
    Stu,

    I've not come across any stiffer options for the FARB, other than having a bar made to a custom specification out of a stiffer material to the same diameter so that it fits the bushes and cups of the RS2 item. Stiffer FARB would induce more understeer though so you don't really want that :mischeif:.

    BUT I'll have your RS2 FARB off you if you really don't need it anymore...

    Had noticed the similarities between the front and rear subframes as I've been lying underneath the car quite a bit recently (not for any reason really ). Amazing what you look at to take your mind off the iron block I5 that's 1" from your nose...

    Mark,

    Getting some bracing plates welded to the rear struts wouln't be too difficult, I'm sure there are plenty of people I know who'd be able to oblige. Got to put a coat of paint on the struts at some point anyway, been replacing most of the rear suspension anyway! Will just have to make sure that I strengthen the mount in the correct loading plane.

    Have done a bit of digging around today to see what the (ballpark) prices are like:

    Front:
    • RS2 FARB is now £200 new.
    • RS2 Front drop links are £60.
    • Whiteline adjustable front drop links are approx £90.

    Rear:
    • Setup like Doug's is £150 or so at full Audi dealer prices, including drop links - ECP, 106/Saxo + rose joints and nuts.
    • Whiteline RARB is £130
    • Rear standard drop links are £70.
    • Whiteline custom drop links are £80 a pair (alternative, uprated version of rears drop links).

    This means (ballpark delivered prices):

    Front:
    • RS2 FARB with RS2 or Whiteline custom drop links £300

    (I have almost new standard DLs so £210 delivered).

    Rear:
    • Whiteline rear setup with new S2 or Whiteline drop links £230.
    • Doug's RARB setup with Saxo drop links £160 or less.


    Hmmmm... this is getting rather an expensive window shopping exercise!

    A little wary of running S2 FARB front and rear as an iterim solution, might be a bit of a handful! Current thinking is Doug's setup at the rear and see how it goes with a standard S2 FARB until funds allow an RS2 FARB...

    Phew!

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  • Jamo
    replied
    Originally posted by Mark Halligan
    I have been thinking about fiiting the standard S2 front ARB up on the rear also, to be honest I don't really find the Whiteline that stiff anymore, even on the stiffest setting. But I am about to fit Bilsteins all round so I will see how the car feels with those first.
    .
    It feels like a guided bullet Mark! I only wish I didn't live in the City when i had my Coupe setup like that as on Motorway and B-Road runs

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  • Mark Halligan
    replied
    I have been thinking about fiiting the standard S2 front ARB up on the rear also, to be honest I don't really find the Whiteline that stiff anymore, even on the stiffest setting. But I am about to fit Bilsteins all round so I will see how the car feels with those first.

    Originally posted by 4WheelDrifter
    BTW, ask Doug about his rear drop link incident at Castle Combe.
    Good point Stu, it would probably be a good idea to strengthen the drop link mounts on the rear struts if you do it, as from what I remember Doug broke one of these off of the strut on the track.

    It will involve a little work and expense, but I'd say do it and see what you think.

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  • Rusty
    replied
    Could do but as it's a torsion spring you'd need to ensure that both were held together rather well and thus shared the loading / torsion. Might be tight on space too, with the rear tie rods etc. I've heard of this being done on cars with a rear trailing beam such as Astra mk.2 but there's less components on at the back of one of those.

    Using Tom's example (use a standard S2 FARB on the rear), all I have to do is buy an RS2 FARB and then transfer my old S2 FARB to the rear (make sense?). However, I'd also need new rear drop links and this setup requires the rear struts to be swapped and so the rear requires re-alignment. This makes up the price difference!

    Using Doug's method I can replace the rear ARB & drop links but would still require a RS2 FARB.

    From reading about the two I am unsure which of the two options is stiffer. Doug comments that Tom's setup gives more oversteer on the exit of corners but there is also a comment (from someone) that indicates that the longer arms of the S2 ARB make it less stiff (due to greater leverage). I also noted that Doug's setup has been through a couple of iterations, hence my possible confucion as I haven't put the posts in chronological order!

    I am after a daily driver setup so want the softer of the two options TBH, just looking into something different to the tried and tested Whiteline route. The ARBs are something I've been looking to do for some time and have had other things get in the way!

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  • newsh
    replied
    How about using an extra stock RARB clamped to the original? Just a thought.

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  • 4WheelDrifter
    replied
    I'm pretty sure Tom said the front bar on the rear was a step slightly too far. But AFAIK it's pretty simple to do. If you look at the subframes they are pretty much the same front and rear, apart from the obvious diff mount. I'm sure it's just a case of swapping the struts over, as you said.

    BTW, ask Doug about his rear drop link incident at Castle Combe.

    I'll be willing to flog my RS2 front ARB, if you can find a stiffer replacement.

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