Doth of the cap sir! Glad you finally got it aligned mate
Rear Sub Frame Refresh
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Dan, just looking at the pics of your subframe assembly...the 2 side diff mounts in the pics on page 3 are the opposite way round to the ones on page 4
im trying to figure it out for myself...took mine out back in january!!1996 Audi S2 - 295bhp and 326lb/ft - Complete Rebuild Project
1994 Audi 80 - 2.0 8v (slow but reliable!)Comment
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The passenger side mount is upside down in the picture when I got everything back from the shot blasters but the mounts are on the correct side of the diff. The one with the angled face clears the exhaust pipe.
However if you are talking about the actual rubber mounts (just re-read your post) then they should be fitted from the 'underside' of the subframe (they are just placed loosely on my 'new' picture). Make sure you get the aluminium cups the right way round as you can crush the mount.Comment
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Yea, i meant the rubber mounts sorry. I remember them being fitted from the underside, its just the orientation i cant quite remember. Do they both sit the same way although one mounts from on top and the other from underneath? (hard to explain...) Which was is right for the aluminium cups?The passenger side mount is upside down in the picture when I got everything back from the shot blasters but the mounts are on the correct side of the diff. The one with the angled face clears the exhaust pipe.
However if you are talking about the actual rubber mounts (just re-read your post) then they should be fitted from the 'underside' of the subframe (they are just placed loosely on my 'new' picture). Make sure you get the aluminium cups the right way round as you can crush the mount.1996 Audi S2 - 295bhp and 326lb/ft - Complete Rebuild Project
1994 Audi 80 - 2.0 8v (slow but reliable!)Comment
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http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/tech_articl...r_subframe.htm that answers some questions lol1996 Audi S2 - 295bhp and 326lb/ft - Complete Rebuild Project
1994 Audi 80 - 2.0 8v (slow but reliable!)Comment
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Yowsers! That's got some rust on it! I'd say that you need to inspect it thoroughly to make sure that it's not rusted through where the rear tie rods attach. Mine wasn't that bad and has rusted through in that area
Also, where's your rear anti roll bar
Cheers'en, AndyC
1994 ABY Coupe - Projekt AlpinweissComment
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Just finished painting my rear subframe with POR-15 today. It was quite rusty, most was surface rust apart from around one tie rod mount where it had rusted through almost exactly as Rusty's had done (in another thread). After shot blasting took it to a local welder who made up a plate and welded it in for ÂŁ40 and it looks perfect now. Will be fitting it back onto the car tomorrow when the paint has dried.
In all I've replaced all subframe mounts, diff mounts, wishbone bushes, ball joints and some bolts + have refurbished the tie rods and subframe, has been an ok job to do so far, hopefully everything will go well putting it all back together.
I ordered POR-15 from www.holden.co.uk who have smaller tins of it in stock. To paint 2 coats onto the subframe, tie-rods & front struts I've used just over half a pint.
Mike's guide has been a great help as have all the posts on here.Comment
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Really, thats hardly anything. Iv not had much experience with PO15 but i have a tin in the garage that will be getting used very soon.
And at rusty. Is this maybe a Typ85 subframe with no ARB? or it might have rusted away!Comment
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IME the early quattro subframes are made of far better quality steel than the later ones, I'm yet to see an early 20v subframe rusted through so I think it will clean up nicely after a blast. The tin worms loves ABY ones.Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
Indigo ABY coupé
Imola B6 S4 AvantComment
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I've used POR15 a few times now, make sure you use a pair of gloves Martin, if you get it on your skin it's a f**kin nightmare to get off, Lesson Learned for me
Stuart
B2 90 quattro with boost
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