Swapping front hubs for more caster?
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Maybe they mount it in front, so they can use longer struts - that way the strut can extend beyond the center of the hub without interfering with the axle shafts... -
Thanks for all the replies I thought it would be worth while you guys having a look at it.
Any advantages having the angle of the strut slightly more inclined like the more modern wrc cars? They are mounting the strut right at the front of the hub to give a large strut angle.Leave a comment:
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Yes pretty intrusive but very effective. That is my fall-back plan on my coupe, but for now I am working on something a little different that will leave the strut towers alone and has other additional handling benefits
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I know quite a few cars that run those GC top mounts on road going cars. Definitely requires some modification/welding to implement. And of course there are compromises in harshness, but trade offs are there.
For the C4, there are PNP options available for an adjustable top mount...
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I swapped the ball joints on the front from side-to-side just to see what would happen. Tire & wheel was noticeably forward in the fender opening. The axles fouled the chassis forward of where they normally travel & the tires contacted the wheelhouse liners(205/60/15, stock 7a Coupe). Front caster was about 6 degrees, up from 2.25 degrees. It did stick in the corners much better.Leave a comment:
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I presume these in the link below are too intrusive to the fabric of the strut tower to install on a road car, and also would introduce too much harshness for daily road use ?
http://www.034motorsport.com/chassis-components-suspension-camber-caster-plate-universal-p-1285.htmlPerformance Parts & Tuning for Audi, Volkswagen & BMW
Interested in more castor though on my B4, and my C4 to keep the outer front wheel more upright when cornering, which I hope will reduce understeer for me ?
Thanks.Leave a comment:
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Yes, Error, that is right. I was thinking the rotational axis WAS the strut tube axis, but it is actually the imaginary line that doesn't move if the BJ location doesn't move.
So you MUST move the top mount back and/or the actual BJ forward for more caster.Last edited by Wheeljack; 2 January 2013, 23:44.Leave a comment:
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caster is the angle between the pivot point axis and the vertical. Swapping the hubs doesn't alter that, you need to move the top mount or the bottom ball joint. You can influence trail by moving the contact patch in relation to the point where the pivot axis intersects the ground, but you want more trail not less, so you need to move contact patch back in relation to the pivot axis intersection point.
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The strut axis will move forward at the bottom because the BJ location stays the same as determined by the control arm. The difference is the knuckle BJ mount offset relative the hub axis (roughly in line with strut axis) X2, which should add caster.Leave a comment:
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Unless its late or I'm having a blond moment, that will give you the same caster angle and less trail. The contact patch centre line will be further forward in relation to the point at which the strut axis intersects the ground, since you haven't moved the strut axis as the mounting points are in the same place (determined by the ball joint and top mount) only the contact patch has moved in relation to it.
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I cant remember ever having seen or read of it being done.
Only issue I can think of would be piston size/caliper orientation for leading v trailing, which is a non issue for you.
Interested to hear how it goes anyway.Leave a comment:
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So nobody has done this? I have cut off all the ABS gubbins so it doesn't matter about that being sided. Swapping the ball joints give way too much to work in the wheel arches so this looks to be the only option?Leave a comment:
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I also wondered this when I put the wheel bearing housings back on my car.Leave a comment:
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