Still sloppy - what to replace?wxxt

[UrS4boy]

it just feels 'sloppy'. Does yours feel like this, Dave?
Or does it feel nice and sturdy, direct and accurate?

Mine was okay(ish) but two years ago, I redid the entire front suspension including subframe mounts, strut mounts, LCAs, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, trans mounts etc. That tightened things up nicely. That said, I think now I have issues with the rear suspension (they *will* steer from the rear and feel waggly if there is slop back there (lots of bushings and links)).

Front suspension PNs should be the link I posted already and in this:

(The first number is Newton-metres (Nm), the second foot-lbs (ft-lbs). Some bolts are stretch bolts and require a 1/4 turn after the initial torque is reached. Every bolt or nut that is listed needs to be replaced with new ones when doing this job, either because they are stretch bolts or they are nyloc nuts or in the case of the sway bar end nut, a metal-loc nut. Buy new OE parts from a dealer or equivalent)

http://12v.org/urs/FrontSuspensionTorqueValues.PDF

[Ross]

I've been thinking for a while now there needs to be a definitive suspension thread. There is so much for engine, drivetrain, braking on here. I've put loads into my RS2 and whilst it generally handles well it is a bit vague with some play/slop (and recently a slight grinding/knocking sensation at slow speed & high lock through the steering and pedals)...

There's a number of people on here well qualified to write such a guide, I'm not one of them! I think perhaps Part 1 - steering & Part 2 - suspension. Listing components and wear parts, eg subframe - bushes; ARB - bushesand drop links; strut - top mounts, spring, damper... Perhaps some key symptoms of wear as well.

Any takers?

[macspring]

At a number of previous posters - Jaychen's car is a C4 therefore it doesn't have as quick a steering rack as B4 ?

At Jaychen, are you sure the tracking company used the correct settings for your car? Unless you stand over them, they may have picked the settings for the model of car they thought they were about to track, rather than the actual correct settings?

If you have not yet done the top mounts and the white plastic bearing, I'd do those next, and then the two adjustable arms on the top of the rear suspension on both sides. . Not sure of their correct name.

When these two items are done, and the tracking settings are indeed correct, and nothing obvious is worn, e.g. track rod end ball joints, loose e.g. anything, or broken, e.g. bracket on steering rack that connects the two track rod arms, and the car is still loose and queer, then start replacing the other items people have mentioned.

And if you do have to do so, do everything in the front at the one time, and then the rear at the one time, rather than a bit here and bit there, meaning that you'd have to re take apart what you've already taken apart previously to replace the next bit. Also it saves on redoing the tracking constantly.

When you find the cause, assuming you can attribute it to the one item, please post up the item.

It sounds so bad, that it couldn't possible be like that from the factory when it was new.

Even if everything is replaced with oem or equivalent it should still not be 'loose'. It doesn't have to be all alloy and plastic bushes to be 'tight'.

Best wishes.

[jaychen]

Thanks Dave,

I was more so referring to P/N's for the Superpro bushes etc. Anybody have any idea which ones i need for them.

Would have loved some solid subframe bushes from Thomas, have to wait until next time.

@macspring, yes mate i did. I gave him OE specs, asked for a print out and they were all spot on.

im going to do the front first (since its already half was there) and then move onto the rear.

That definitive guide with P/N's and poly bushes from compatible vendors would be ace. It's no small job though!

[jaychen]

When you say top mounts, are you guys referring to the rubber spring seat?

I am running 2B camber plates, so just trying to figure out what is encompassed in the term 'top plate'.

Haven't done the white bearings, there was no movement what so ever in them. They spun freely, no grinding or anything under load.

[jaychen]

anybody have the p/n for this ? no. 1 is what i'm looking for..

[newsh]

Jay, just a thought, are your tyres worn unevenly? This can make the car change direction as the road camber changes.

[jaychen]

Jay, just a thought, are your tyres worn unevenly? This can make the car change direction as the road camber changes.

tbh, i think they are as im running eagle f1's on the front and some toyos on the rear.

im not going to replace all 4 until i have all the arms done etc as it'll just mean another $100 for a wheel alignment and balance etc

I've ordered tierods and some other bushes, waiting for a price on those rear arms.

[jaychen]

Can anyone confirm if :

4A0 419 801A
4A0 419 802A

Will fit a RHD URS4?