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Yes. For example at the rear I cut out the box with the captive but just leaving the outer skin. I welded some 10 mm plate to the bottom of a piece of tube with a 12mm hole in it. I then put a cap head bolt through it and the solid subframe mount. I then triangulate that into the cage. Front is similar but not triangulate due to space issues.
Yes. For example at the rear I cut out the box with the captive but just leaving the outer skin. I welded some 10 mm plate to the bottom of a piece of tube with a 12mm hole in it. I then put a cap head bolt through it and the solid subframe mount. I then triangulate that into the cage. Front is similar but not triangulate due to space issues.
They do crack with no stiffening, 20 odd years old and spot welded, often with much more HP than originally intended, ( see mal keough's thread) complete seam welding isn't the answer. Stitched welding is the way forward (imo and looking at works subframes) you will find they have wax inside and can be awkward to weld, even with the best cleaning and prep. I ground the overlapped seams even, stitched, ground out again giving a nice base to weld from ( I have a thing for bird **** weld, they don't hold and look awful) wishbones are the same even after blasting, additional plates were added to the wishbones along the sides where the two pressings meet on early works cars, hope this helps and saves you some time
I ended up ordering a tubular one, should be finished this week. The rear in my car is doing a great deal of work so I thought it best to go all out, if it lets go at speed iam in deep do do
thanks
mal
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