Subframe strengthening

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  • terrybullwon
    S2Forum Zealot
    • Mar 2006
    • 8782
    • Country: England

    #16
    Originally posted by diesel des
    I tied the subframe bolts into the cage in an effort to stop this. Is this a common issue?

    Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk
    It moves on the actual captive nuts it tightens into.

    Do you mean you brought your cage down and then cut out and removed the captive nuts and welded something solid in?

    On mine before i went to a tube front end it moved the frame and this would in turn move the toe settings
    Chef

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    • diesel des
      S2Forum Possessed
      • Feb 2004
      • 3896

      #17
      Yes. For example at the rear I cut out the box with the captive but just leaving the outer skin. I welded some 10 mm plate to the bottom of a piece of tube with a 12mm hole in it. I then put a cap head bolt through it and the solid subframe mount. I then triangulate that into the cage. Front is similar but not triangulate due to space issues.

      Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk

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      • terrybullwon
        S2Forum Zealot
        • Mar 2006
        • 8782
        • Country: England

        #18
        Originally posted by diesel des
        Yes. For example at the rear I cut out the box with the captive but just leaving the outer skin. I welded some 10 mm plate to the bottom of a piece of tube with a 12mm hole in it. I then put a cap head bolt through it and the solid subframe mount. I then triangulate that into the cage. Front is similar but not triangulate due to space issues.

        Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk
        You wont get much better than that good effort
        Chef

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        • diesel des
          S2Forum Possessed
          • Feb 2004
          • 3896

          #19
          Like this for reference.



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          • diesel des
            S2Forum Possessed
            • Feb 2004
            • 3896

            #20
            I only did it on 2 pick up points on each frame. But I don't reckon it will move far...

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            • inne3quattro
              S2Forum Fanatic
              • Oct 2009
              • 55
              • Country: United Kingdom

              #21
              They do crack with no stiffening, 20 odd years old and spot welded, often with much more HP than originally intended, ( see mal keough's thread) complete seam welding isn't the answer. Stitched welding is the way forward (imo and looking at works subframes) you will find they have wax inside and can be awkward to weld, even with the best cleaning and prep. I ground the overlapped seams even, stitched, ground out again giving a nice base to weld from ( I have a thing for bird **** weld, they don't hold and look awful) wishbones are the same even after blasting, additional plates were added to the wishbones along the sides where the two pressings meet on early works cars, hope this helps and saves you some time

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              • malncol
                S2Forum Addict
                • Mar 2012
                • 288
                • Country: Australia

                #22
                I ended up ordering a tubular one, should be finished this week. The rear in my car is doing a great deal of work so I thought it best to go all out, if it lets go at speed iam in deep do do
                thanks
                mal

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