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Engine Components that are balanced : rods and pistons.
Crank was not touched.
Speaking of which , after driving the car to work for the last 4 days to get the clutch to bed in, the vibration seems to have subsided. (or am i just getting used to it ?)
S2 Coupe fully built.
10.9 1/4mile 0-100 in 3.5secs
Precision 6262 turbo
5cyl flywheels can be balanced to 0 by themselves. Crank is another matter.
This has been empirically tested by me and my friends. Std flywheels seem to be balanced using 20g tolerance.
Should my crank be balanced too since i changed the flywheel ?
S2 Coupe fully built.
10.9 1/4mile 0-100 in 3.5secs
Precision 6262 turbo
Pedal is very Light !!
part numbers written on box wher SA233F and SA51A.
Not sure why 2 numbers thou.
You have the right parts as far as I can tell. These parts are set up for use without the spacer installed. By extending the pushrod you are putting a band-aid on an issue you really should resolve. First of all your transmission main-inputshaft is resting 9mm further out of the flywheel center bearing, secondly your thrust bearing is operating 9mm further out on the transmission sleve. In a worst case scenario ( I have not measured this yet ) but your input shaft MAY not be resting in the flywheel bearing at all, your thrust bearing MIGHT me operating beyond the sleve in the transmission giving you unneccesary friction/resistance. IF this is the case this could be what is causing your vibrations.
I am VERY keen to hear your progress on this issue. Please take the time to remove the spacer and repost to report your findings.
Faheem, with the type of power your car makes, I would not risk the band aid solution. I realise it is a lot of work but I think it is better to remove the spacer.
1995 Silver S2 (ADU) Coupe
2006 Porsche 997 Carrera S
2006 Misano Red RS4
2004 VW Touareg V8
2007 Golf Mk1 Race Car
2004 Mercedes Benz Vito 112CD
The Perfectionist
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Audi Class Concours winner Stoner Park 2014, ADI Concours D'Elegance Class Winner 2008, Runner up 2014. Winner, S2Forum Show'n'Shine Billing 2006 & 2008.
okay ... this week the gear box comes out !!
Had a bad experience already , the clutch pedal got stuck at the bottom of the footwell whilst driving.
Does anyone know if i will need shorter bolts for gearbox housing ?
S2 Coupe fully built.
10.9 1/4mile 0-100 in 3.5secs
Precision 6262 turbo
Finally Droped the Gearbox and Removed the Spacer.
Transmission ends up going forward and extended the linkages to reach shifter.
Clutch actuation feels much better !!
Clutch Pedal STILL getting stuck at the bottom of footwell.
Any ideas ???
I stuck my head deep into the footwell and noticed thers a set of springs located beyond the master pushrod. These springs seem to help keep the pedal on the floor.
Anyone know ther purpose or how to remove them ?
S2 Coupe fully built.
10.9 1/4mile 0-100 in 3.5secs
Precision 6262 turbo
To Finally update this Thread ,
I tried once again to reverse bleed the system change slave units and adjust master unit.
Nutting Worked.
I've come to the conclusion that thers something amiss with the tension on the pressure plate fingers.
I am currently using an extra spring to help bring the pedal up from the floor...
S2 Coupe fully built.
10.9 1/4mile 0-100 in 3.5secs
Precision 6262 turbo
I had the same problem. fitted an 034 flywheel and 3B clutchnet clutch. The pedal went very light and kept sticking to the floor but only just.
Tried bleeding it, adjust the master cylinder, new master cylinder, nothing!
I think it is becuse the angle of the fingers are alot shallower on a 3B clutch than on the ABY so the pedal springs are abit OTT when combined with the bigger ABY master cylinder.
I removed my over center spring, not ideal I know but it's done the job till I can find an alternative. Maybe remove the assister spring and refit the over center.
I had the same problem. fitted an 034 flywheel and 3B clutchnet clutch. The pedal went very light and kept sticking to the floor but only just.
Tried bleeding it, adjust the master cylinder, new master cylinder, nothing!
I think it is becuse the angle of the fingers are alot shallower on a 3B clutch than on the ABY so the pedal springs are abit OTT when combined with the bigger ABY master cylinder.
I removed my over center spring, not ideal I know but it's done the job till I can find an alternative. Maybe remove the assister spring and refit the over center.
Hope this helps.
Any updates on this issue Quattro Fever ?
I am absolutely fed up with the 034 flywheel setup, i have tried everything anybody has suggested, pulled the box out and on about 4 times already ! and problem hasnt gone away.
New slave , new master , upgraded to dual diafram spec pressure plate , upgraded to spec 5 clutch , bled up , bled down , knuckles bled alot also , and i still have a clutch pedal that is light, will not return and slips when 400ft of torque is applied !
Anybody has a proven clutch and flywheel setup other than a Spec on a ABY S2 that will hold more than 400ft - 500ft torque and about 600hp ?
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