New S2 Avant Nothelle N300 owner

[Tractor Dave]

My oil still smells of petrol so before I did anything else I swapped it for this.

Apparently it’s good stuff but must be changed after 1k Miles.

I managed to pull the loom out enough so I could work on it. I have now replaced all the connectors and tested each wire to the connector plug and they are all good.
I then tried again but still had the warning light on autocheck.
Then I remembered I had fitted another oil sender when all this started. So, put the old one back in and, hey presto, all is good. I’m still showing 5bar plus on my oil gauge all the time but I discovered something else interesting. I have a shim on my oil pressure regulator spring. Should it be there? Is that causing constant high pressure?

So, oil light off, I took her for a nice long drive. 20 miles to my nearest shell garage and filled her up with v power.
It’s running very smoothly, powerful and willing. I’ve edged up to 4K revs a couple of times. It’s so tempting to go further!
I still have the wheel bearing to sort, then the car it pretty much useable.


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[Trist28]

Maybe the same problem as the fan wire feed on mine...

Before you take the loom out, try just shortening that wire a little and crimping a new tag on the end.

[Tractor Dave]

Oh and check the round plugs on the bulkhead for corrosion ( if it goes through one of those that is..)

Good plan

[newsh]

Oh and check the round plugs on the bulkhead for corrosion ( if it goes through one of those that is..)

[newsh]

Before you take the loom out, try just shortening that wire a little and crimping a new tag on the end.

[Tractor Dave]

And thanks to Lefrog who found me a good replacement cable, the bonnet now opens nicely and I ditched the blue string!

[Tractor Dave]

I’ve spent this afternoon on the car. I tested for continuity on the sensor wires and had 0 resistance on all three wires. All the connections were good so I was still scratching my head. My electrician friend called by and suggested that a simple resistance test would not always show up a problem. Sometimes a small strand of wire would show 0 resistance but not carry sufficient voltage in operation. So I hot wired each connection in turn back to the relevant wire on the plug on the bulkhead. Hey presto, the black and white wire to the oil pressure sender wasn’t carrying sufficient voltage and when hot wired, the warning light went out.


Now I just have the horrible job of taking that bit of the loom out and fixing. Not looking forward to that.


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[Tractor Dave]

I think I found the problem. The loom that runs on the left side of the engine was actually touching the block and looks heat damaged. I will have to take it all out and repair. It's the section that goes to the oil sensors and water rail.
My back is still sore from yesterday (crawling about under the dash) so I haven't even started on the grommet hunt

[Tractor Dave]

As both of those signal goes through the aux loom with the round connectors, I would check for continuity there down to the sender. I believe the pressure sensor should have some resistance whereas the pressure switch is either open or closed circuit. The full scale deflection is supposedly down to not having any signal.

Thanks for the tip. I did have a problem with that section of wiring previously so its a good place to start. I ran a test on the bench previously before installing that bit of the loom but its been pushed and pulled into place sine then.

[twoqu]

Yes. It’s on the correct terminal. If you clean up the sensor there is actually a blob of blue paint to indicate which terminal goes where.


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As both of those signal goes through the aux loom with the round connectors, I would check for continuity there down to the sender. I believe the pressure sensor should have some resistance whereas the pressure switch is either open or closed circuit. The full scale deflection is supposedly down to not having any signal.

[Tractor Dave]

This car is fighting back!
Fitted the new bonnet cable and now it works.
Only problem is that the grommet is the wrong size and mine fell into the black hole behind the dash.


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[Tractor Dave]

Have you been able to determine where the play is occurring?

I've never fitted a bearing before as it involves a hydraulic press that I don't have but I've watched it done and it involves quite a lot of force to press the bearing into the bearing carrier.

Is the play between the fixed and rotating parts of the bearing (I. E your bearing has failed) or between the outer race and carrier (I. E your carrier is ever so slightly too big) or between the inner race and hub (I. E your hub is slightly too small)

Skf bearings last a good while in service, if the play is between the fixed and rotating halves then I wonder if you have sadly damaged the bearing pressing it in? I hope not as that would be awfully annoying. You must press it in with a blank that pushes the outer race into the carrier, if you are pressing it in by pushing the inner race the I'm afraid that is probably why it's knackered again. Sorry if you already know this, I'm just throwing ideas out there!

I’ve done a few bearings and did it with proper support both times. It’s difficult to see where the play is. Certainly very tight fit going into the hub carrier. Maybe there is wear on the hub itself. I will have to visit my Audi mechanic again.


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[Tractor Dave]

I think the blue wiring terminal should be on the G terminal of the sender.
Thats the terminal plastic cover!

Yes. It’s on the correct terminal. If you clean up the sensor there is actually a blob of blue paint to indicate which terminal goes where.


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[steve briance]

Have you been able to determine where the play is occurring?

I've never fitted a bearing before as it involves a hydraulic press that I don't have but I've watched it done and it involves quite a lot of force to press the bearing into the bearing carrier.

Is the play between the fixed and rotating parts of the bearing (I. E your bearing has failed) or between the outer race and carrier (I. E your carrier is ever so slightly too big) or between the inner race and hub (I. E your hub is slightly too small)

Skf bearings last a good while in service, if the play is between the fixed and rotating halves then I wonder if you have sadly damaged the bearing pressing it in? I hope not as that would be awfully annoying. You must press it in with a blank that pushes the outer race into the carrier, if you are pressing it in by pushing the inner race the I'm afraid that is probably why it's knackered again. Sorry if you already know this, I'm just throwing ideas out there!

[twoqu]

I think the blue wiring terminal should be on the G terminal of the sender.
Thats the terminal plastic cover!