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On a short drive I noticed a light knock from the front strut area. As everything is new I was concerned so had a look under the black cover. There has been some play there. I took off the large cap and found this.
So, I’m thinking it might be the Febi bushes. Did Autodoc supply the correct ones?
For peace of mind I bought some new ones. The green HD Meyle ones.
I also found that some owners in Canada put neoprene washers under the big yellow washer to reduce this. This is the biggest I could find so cut it into a ring and it slotted in nicely underneath.
The Febi bushes look slightly taller and fatter than the Meyle. I will see how it goes.
Just measure the fitted sender. As long as its got a measured low Ohms reading then it going to be easier to use. Just one terminal on the G straight into the connector. Saves havving to ****** about with another wire!
Hey Dave, apologies I didn't get a chance to respond to your PM.
As Robin suggested i think you need to try to isolate the problem.
The circular connectors themselves can be a source of problems with corrosion or tarnishing on the terminals. You can remove them by popping out the centre pink retainer in the connector.
I have a variable resistor which I use for testing in the same way that Robin suggested, you can do this at the bulkhead side of the circular connector and also at the gauge cluster connector to try to narrow down the problem. Have you tried to continuity check from the gauge cluster connector to the sender connector? Symptoms are of an open circuit or high resistance of a damaged or burnt wire.
No problem Alex, I guessed you were busy and I wanted to see if I could fix it myself. It's not rocket science! Well hopefully not.
I have done sender to round plug but I haven't tested from the round plug to the gauge yet. I will do that tomorrow. I have a box of spare relays collected from many Audi's over many years and I'm sure I will have one to use as a tester as suggested.
Thanks everyone for all the advice. As usual this forum is brilliant
Hey Dave, apologies I didn't get a chance to respond to your PM.
As Robin suggested i think you need to try to isolate the problem.
The circular connectors themselves can be a source of problems with corrosion or tarnishing on the terminals. You can remove them by popping out the centre pink retainer in the connector.
I have a variable resistor which I use for testing in the same way that Robin suggested, you can do this at the bulkhead side of the circular connector and also at the gauge cluster connector to try to narrow down the problem. Have you tried to continuity check from the gauge cluster connector to the sender connector? Symptoms are of an open circuit or high resistance of a damaged or burnt wire.
Thinking about it you already must have something that reads a low resistance in the form of the sender that reads 10 Ohms! Hook that up as above making sure you have a good ground. If that does not move the gauge then they must be a break in the wire from the connector back to the gauge or its not connected. Its the variance in the current that moves the gauge.
Well we know it takes a certain amount of resistance to peg the gauge above say 200 Ohms as thats what the sender does.
If we can feed in a known resistance lower than that the gauge should move down the scale. Something around 50 Ohms should be about 1 bar, 10-15 Ohms should be 0 bar. All we are doing is taking away the variability of the sender.
Thanks very much twoqu, that's very useful. If I take a reading from the gauge itself and see what's happening there, I'm looking for resistance change rather than a voltage change?
If you know which pin in the circular connector is back to the gauge you could try something along the lines of the following.
First find a relay from your collection and see if you can get a relatively low reading from across the 85 and 86 terminals. For example I have a 217 relay that has a resistance of 52 ohms. Then connect a wire to earth from one terminal and feed the other into the gauge pin. In effect thats simulating a low pressure signal which should move the gauge down the scale. If that works then at least you know everythings ok back to the guage from the connector. If it still does not work then it points to wiring back to the guage or the gauge itself. You only need the ign on to do this.
I sort of used this technique to troubleshoot a coolant gauge which didn't want to budge. Turned out the wire in the gauge was broken! Sort of the opposite to your problem but maybe helpful. Other than that I would measure the front and rear of that circular pin in case there is a high resistance in the connector.
Do the other gauges make sense?
As Error was busy I decided to have a go myself.
I got some wire
And some high temp sleeves.
Every wire that showed any sign of heat damage was replaced and individually sleeved. Tessa high temp tape then used to wrap it all up. All lines tested and good. Nil shorts.
Put it all back in the car.
And......hey presto, same fault as before ☹️
I set up an external battery with a buzzer and tested each wire. I had a good buzz from the black and white sender wire. But also had a feint buzz from another wire at the plug...... so I have a short!
It was a real PITA but I removed the loom.
I’ve stripped the insulation and there is no sign of a short. It must be very minor. Some of the wires were joined together by the heat and the insulation must be compromised. I will replace all the wires that look damaged.
I bought a new toy
Just over 5 bar at start up
Dropped to about 3 when the oil was warm.
I tried another sender (used). I had the same problem as the last one I tried. The auto check said low oil pressure and on starting the engine gauge went straight to max and stayed there.
Really scratching my head now. Must be something still up with the wiring I think.
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