Buying an S2 Coupe - Am I walking into a world of pain.

[Bowie69]

Still, cheaper than depreciation on a new car!

[Ian Simmonds]

It is brutal sometimes, especially if it’s still relied upon as a daily. The first modification for Audi S2 ownership is a water cooled credit card.

[B5NUT]

Nice almost £900 for a replacement. Cheap things to run these S2's... Well I'm hoping with the car having just over 100k, it's not in too bad condition.

My parts bill so far has reached just over £1,300 and I've got at least another 1k of parts I want.

[Tractor Dave]

Yep... but sit down for the price......

And I got hit with import tax as well

[Bowie69]

Yep... but sit down for the price......

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks will take a look at that. What are the vibration dampers like over time/use etc? On newer Audi models they are usually shot after 10 years. The one on my A6 C6 fell apart, and was lucky as the engine was at idle when it failed. I see in etka that pulley & damper are long since obsolete so if they are damaged is there any other options that could fit?

Minor cracks to be expected. As long as it looks smooth when running, should be ok. The only replacement option I know of is a fluid damper from America. I have one here but haven't fitted it yet.

[B5NUT]

Thanks will take a look at that. What are the vibration dampers like over time/use etc? On newer Audi models they are usually shot after 10 years. The one on my A6 C6 fell apart, and was lucky as the engine was at idle when it failed. I see in etka that pulley & damper are long since obsolete so if they are damaged is there any other options that could fit?

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks everything will be checked over, and any damaged parts replaced. Also anyone know where I can get an ABY crank pully bolt from?

You can 're use your old one as long as it's not damaged. It's not a stretch bolt. But do check the condition of the diamond washer. It needs to be rough to touch and not worn smooth.
the bolt is still available from Audi Tradition but the diamond washer is ebay.de.

[B5NUT]

Thanks everything will be checked over, and any damaged parts replaced. Also anyone know where I can get an ABY crank pully bolt from?

[newsh]

The bottom cambelt pulley is prone to breaking its keyway, there’s a billet steel version available from James (Terrybullwon on here). The keyway of the upper pulley should be inspected and the pulley replaced if you have any doubts.

[Bowie69]

IIRC to remove the oil pump you need to remove the sump, not the end of the world, but whole lot more work than you probably planned -and if you have poly bushes in the subframe, you have to remove that too to get clearance.

If you decide just to do #2, then you need a special tool to remove in situ (do NOT try to lever it out, you will break the casting!), or a really, really strong set of seal picks. Installation requires pipe of reasonable diameter. It is not that likely #7 is leaking tbh, far more likely just #2.

Get a camshaft oil seal just in case.

[B5NUT]

So in the coming weeks I will be changing the timing belt. Is there anything else I could do while I'm there.

I'm going to change the following so far.
Water Pump
Idler pulley
Belt
v-belts

Also change seals 2 & 7 on the image below as there is a very minor oil leak coming from the front of the engine.
seals.jpg

Anything else you would do at the same time?

[B5NUT]

What I'm finding hard at the moment is getting parts, as it needs a lot of them... The car was MOT's at the start of September, but I did not feel the MOT was worth the paper it was printed on. So had it retested this week by my MOT tester that I know very well. Told him to perform the MOT but not to register it, and guess what it failed

Brake performance (They are bloody awful)
The steering gaiter has split exposing the rack
Rear subframe it's very thin around one of the ABR mounts
front near side shock is leaking like hell (These were dry when I got the car so the seals must have failed on the drive home)
Rear offside shock slight leakage.
Headlight bulb failed the night before the test

All of the above is being addressed over the next few weeks. Biggest job will be dropping the rear subframe, so I can get it shot blasted, welding done and powered coated. Was hoping to get this done next year when the weather improves, but it's looking good for the next few weeks so will start ripping it apart as soon as the parts arrived from autodoc!

[simons2]

Agreed , they can be a pain in the **** but when running right they are brilliant

[Rikki Kitto]

A whole world of pain but so much excitement when on form