Has anyone else had this thought?

[newsh]

Thanks for that prj

[prj]

91,92,93 Log

-4 and -5 adaptation in 93.

These should be as close to 0 as possible.

With new tensioners I have 0-1 there.
With old ones, some people have had 8, 12.

I mean, you can drive around like this, nothing is broken yet. But once it gets to -6 or -8 or so, you will have to change them.
Your car will get progressively down on power in the midrange too.

[dest]

I was starting to get a bit paranoid after reading about your issues!
I knew mine had new cams about 2 years ago, but was'nt certain what else was fitted, so dug out the bill.
It was all done approx 10k ago, so hopefully nothing to worry about for a long time now.
These are obviously some real world prices for anyone wondering what potential costs are on an RS4! (maybe Ill back track now on my cost assumptions LOL)

http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r83/martynwebster/?action=view&current=ecead34f.jpg

This was from MRC

[newsh]

91,92,93 Log

[newsh]

Cool. I'll do 93 in the morning. Here's a crap video.

The first 2 seconds after start up says it. The SAI pump is really noisy too..

[prj]

Log 93 as well, sorry forgot to say that.

From the current log looks more or less ok. Of course not brand new, but not nearly as bad as mine was when the chain was banging about.

[newsh]

Log attached, changed csv to xls to get it to upload..

[prj]

Considering newsh' car has not done even close to 120 000 miles yet, your explanation does sound very plausible.
Well, does not matter for me anymore, since I have new camshafts, new chains, new tensioners, and this should last at least 150000 km, and I'll sell the car before that time.

[JP]

When a tensioner goes bad the engine sounds like all the tappets are failing as there is no oil pressure in the head. In all honesty very rarely see an engine with that mileage in the uk. They've normally dropped a valve way before then due to excessive guide wear. I've personally come across two engines were the tensioners were physically bad in my time compared to every single one were the sliders have worn out. Interesting to know what sort of mileage they do give up though as that'll be something to note for the future

[prj]

In my case both tensioners were shot as well.
One tensioner was replaced by the previous owner, the other one I had to do myself.

Basically, look at Group 91 & 92 in VAG-COM and post the log.
If it's within 0-1 CF/KW on both, then it's not the tensioners. Otherwise they're probably shot.

I don't know where JP has the info from that the tensioners rarely go bad. Over here in Estonia most VAG 5V tensioners go bad between 200 000 and 300 000 km.
Sooner on RS6's and RS4's, later on other cars which are not abused so much.

Logging those groups will show you how bad it is. My chain was also only rattling on start up a little. Opening up revealed camshafts where teeth had been ground to bananas and the cam cover had a piece missing on the inside, because the chain basically hit it all the time.

[newsh]

Ok, knew I'd read it here somewhere too

[andy10v]

So RS4 Cam chain rattles, where does one buy the plastic sliders from? Otherwise am I looking at 6 or 700 quid for tensioners?

Ask JP where he gets his from?

I know why they fail and it is not associated to mileage. Its not associated to chain tensioners either. I deal with a lot of brands of engines and the problem is not unique to the 2.7t's. Ive seen it happen on factory cams and aftermarket ones. Infact it's nothing to do with the quality of the cams. However I've given up trying to explain to people the cause as everyone thinks they know better. So only customers that may be effected will have the appropriate head mods done and adviced accordingly.

As for replacing cam tensioners just buy the plastic sliders and replace them the tensioners rarely go wrong themselves and the sliders are less than $40 + shipping per pair from the US. Or buyba cheap £70 one from an AGU 1.8t and take the sliders of.


As for the actual topic I could've bought an RS4 for the cost of my engine and turbo. But I paid for those in drips and drabs and has allowed me to have what I want. God has a way of taking my money whenever I think I have it so the likelyhood of me ever having a lump sum of cash to the tune of 10k is next to nil and I don't buy if I don't have the cash.

Saying that once I've then bought the 10k stock car I'd have to go and spend another 20-30k to make it the way I want modifying is in my blood it just gets more expensive the newer the car is.

[newsh]

See this just goes to show how you can get different advice from different places. I've been told (and read) that the tensioners actually don't really go wrong but the plastic of the runners wears away. The bits of plastic end up in the sump, block the pickup and goodnight vienna..

My front chain rattles for about a half second on startup then goes quiet, I've only noticed it the last few times I've driven the car and didn't realise what it was at first, its not that obvious unless you start the car with the window down.. With a screwdriver as a stethoscope I can hear that its not quite as quiet as the back one. I don't even really want to start it up again never mind drive it.

I'll see if I can log with vagcom.

[prj]

So RS4 Cam chain rattles, where does one buy the plastic sliders from? Otherwise am I looking at 6 or 700 quid for tensioners?

The chain rattles because the tensioner is shot.
You will need new tensioners, new chains and all gaskets. If you drive around like that for some time, you will also need new camshafts, because the camshaft teeth will look like bananas.

Eventually the chain will jump teeth and the pistons will hit the valves.

Log measuring blocks 91 & 92 on idle in VAG-COM and let me know what you have there.

[newsh]

So RS4 Cam chain rattles, where does one buy the plastic sliders from? Otherwise am I looking at 6 or 700 quid for tensioners?