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Agreed, it’s just him mild steel.
I would start with an adjustable spanner with a hefty screwdriver through the hole in the end of the handle. The adjustable can be set as quite a tight fit on the sheet steel. A few tweaks and twists and it’ll be straight.
Great tips once again Not had time to go near the car yet to bend it back into shape. At least it sounds do-able from Macspring and Newsh. It is thin steel i'm surprised it lasted 160k miles
Another point is on closer inspection i think my master cylinder is fine. Because the shaft was moving out of line with cylinder i thought it had broken. Didn't realise it was a ball fitment on the shaft so can move around which makes sense right enough. It goes into the cylinder with just hand pressure and returns itself.
So why i suddenly had no clutch remains a slight concern. I hope it's just that the broken pedal box bent so far that eventually it wouldn't function. If not, i hope i've not got another problem. Anyway sort pedal box and refit and go from there.
Finally got round to tackling this today having ordered a right angled drill bit weeks ago from ebay. Turns out i didn't actually use it as it makes it even harder to drill the broken part.
First step was to get the broken part back into alignment. Ended up using a hammer and metal bar. It's not perfect but about as close as i can get it.
Then got a 3mm steel plate and drilled suitable holes.
Used a 35mm hole saw for the big hole for the master cylinder to go through. Then the 2 bolt holes (M8 i think) were drilled. These are 50mm apart over the centre of the bigger 35mm hole. Lots of taking off/on of the plate to make sure i was drilling correctly. I still got it a bit off and had to file the holes to make sure they lined up.
Next up was the hard(er) part. Access is very limited with the pedals in the way and everything else, the goal is to get a new hole in the good steel of the pedal box. I drilled a hole in the steel plate (off the car) and then bolted it in with the 2 existing holes so i could mark where i wanted to drill the new (3rd bolt) hole in the car. Wasn't much fun but i got there in the end. New m6 bolt and washers on and the plate feels rock solid.
In an ideal world i'd like the pedal box out and welded properly to strenghten it.
Tomorrows job is to adjust the clevis by 3mm and refit the master cylinder.
Refitted everything which wasn't easy. Worst part was getting the hard line to screw back into the master cylinder. I was ages at it. Bled clutch and so far so good.
Worst job I have done on a car ever. I also have a long spring lying in my drivers footwell. I have no idea where this goes...any ideas? Will grab a photo.
Also my brake discs must be warped as there is some serious vibration when braking which wasn't there pre clutch failure.
Refitted everything which wasn't easy. Worst part was getting the hard line to screw back into the master cylinder. I was ages at it. Bled clutch and so far so good.
Worst job I have done on a car ever. I also have a long spring lying in my drivers footwell. I have no idea where this goes...any ideas? Will grab a photo.
Also my brake discs must be warped as there is some serious vibration when braking which wasn't there pre clutch failure.
Not a nice job to tackle by the look/sound of it- good for you tackling it, Mike.
Someone with more mechanical suss than me will be along to point out a possible explanation for your brake judder after the pedal box mods- good luck sorting!
Thanks Colin. Frustrating to say the least, but hopefully that's it. I've not replaced all the trim so i can check everything is still tight after a few more miles.
Fairly sure the brake problem is unrelated, the discs look seriously rusty after sitting idle outside for a month and they are less than a year old . Anyway i'm paying someone else to look at the brakes i've had enough DIY for a while
Mike, it's probably just the rust causing the brake vibration but if it's that bad you're likely going to need new discs(and pads)......if you're lucky and you persevere they might just clean themselves up!
Have you done many miles since fixing the pedal?
Well done Michael!
Having just done the clutch pushrod in my son’s GFs cabby I know where you’ve been.
Discs are almost never warped, it will probably be some rust from being parked up or some friction material stuck to the discs, a few heavy braking cycles fro 70 down to 40 might just sort it.
Incidentally I pretty much never leave my handbrake on any more unless I’m out and on a slope, just leave it in gear.
Brakes seem to be getting better after some more use after 50 miles or so. I will persevere and hopefully they will be fine. I've never had vibration/wobble like that under braking i can only assume some brake pad was stuck to the discs as you say Newsh.
All good in the clutch department. Does anyone know where this spring goes . Only noticed it after removing some of the plastic trim to gain better access to the pedal box area. Now have no idea where it's meant to go.
No idea on the spring I'm afraid but if doesn't look very strong so can't be for moving big stuff? How about doing a Google images search for Audi s6 pedal box. I find loads of information from diagrams online - search usually returns factory manual / etka extracts
As for the brakes, I agree with Newsh - warped discs are rare, deposits on the surface are not. You Deffo have rust on them and depending on what pads you use, you may have transferred material from pad to disc. Harder to get rid of unfortunately. I've tried no end of pads over the years and found o. E spec Textar pads give the least vibration problems over their service life. I only drive car on the road and not too fast so don't have to deal with massive heat.
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