Originally posted by Chris5044
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Fluidampr Crankshaft Damper - All I5
Collapse
X
-
In response: My engine isnt balanced as far as I know or it was balanced with the old unit. Though bolting it on should be fine and in time i will look at balancing it when I decide to go deeper into mods and an engine re-build. (would this be ok? what do you guys think or know? I think these things do such an amazing job I have heard). - or am I mistaken?
** I also found out that the new ARP bolt coming is deffo 350NM and it can be used many times as opposed to the old stretch bolt and thus should be torqued to 350NM for the new fitment.
** The locking tools also might not fit correctly and I was told that either create a new one or retrofit the old locking tool to fit the new damper.
Comment
-
Well, the ARP style bolt normally gets fitted with 'special' ARP lube ( a thin molybdenum grease) on the thread, and under the head of the bolt.
Torque is a measure of turning force, so when the bolt is lubed up properly, the turning force required to get to the specified clamping force is reduced, as well as being more consistent, certainly better than trying to fit it with bits fo grit still in the threads
Also, as the ARP bolt is not a stretch it will clamp things up to a higher force than a stretch bolt at the same torque setting. The old bolt is a stretch bolt... so some of the clamping force is taken up by the fact the bolt has stretched! Therefore you need a higher turning torque to get the right clamp force.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Bowie69 View PostWell, the ARP style bolt normally gets fitted with 'special' ARP lube ( a thin molybdenum grease) on the thread, and under the head of the bolt.
Torque is a measure of turning force, so when the bolt is lubed up properly, the turning force required to get to the specified clamping force is reduced, as well as being more consistent, certainly better than trying to fit it with bits fo grit still in the threads
Also, as the ARP bolt is not a stretch it will clamp things up to a higher force than a stretch bolt at the same torque setting. The old bolt is a stretch bolt... so some of the clamping force is taken up by the fact the bolt has stretched! Therefore you need a higher turning torque to get the right clamp force.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Chris5044 View PostIn response: My engine isnt balanced as far as I know or it was balanced with the old unit. Though bolting it on should be fine and in time i will look at balancing it when I decide to go deeper into mods and an engine re-build. (would this be ok? what do you guys think or know? I think these things do such an amazing job I have heard). - or am I mistaken?
Special notes (Hardware & Balancing): Install hardware per OEM specifications.
1. The ADU/ABY (and other older inline-5) engines are balanced as a complete rotating assembly. We do not recommend installing this product on a motor currently in a vehicle. The rotating assembly must first be zero balanced and then the Fluidampr can be installed. Failure to follow this instruction will result in potential catastrophic engine failure or at minimum extreme cabin vibrations. Please seek the assistance of Jeff Garnerās engine building services or your local machinist before purchasing.
sigpic
1991 Audi S2 3B - 2.5 Stroker engine
1997 A6 2.5TDi quattro avant - C4
1976 RD250E / 350LC cafe racer
- 1 like
Comment
-
Originally posted by AndyP View Post
From the website, this isn't a bolt on replacement.
Special notes (Hardware & Balancing): Install hardware per OEM specifications.
1. The ADU/ABY (and other older inline-5) engines are balanced as a complete rotating assembly. We do not recommend installing this product on a motor currently in a vehicle. The rotating assembly must first be zero balanced and then the Fluidampr can be installed. Failure to follow this instruction will result in potential catastrophic engine failure or at minimum extreme cabin vibrations. Please seek the assistance of Jeff Garnerās engine building services or your local machinist before purchasing.
I would of course like to balance it. Though surely this was built from the specs of the original unit so would be close to the fit of the original right? It will only be running around 300bhp.
If a balance can be quick and affordable I may do this. (i need to get this ready for the nurburgring trip in a few weeks ahhhh...
Comment
-
Your engine is not zero balanced as standard. You should not fit this and hope it will be OK. The whole crank assembly including pistons, rods, etc should be stripped out of the engine and sent for balancing requesting zero balance. This will involve removing material from the crank. As previously mentioned, this isn't a bolt on replacement item. It's not a disclaimer from the vendor, but a simple requirement for this to work on the I5 engine.91 Modded 3B
14 A6 Avant Black Edition
Comment
-
Originally posted by SteveH View PostYour engine is not zero balanced as standard. You should not fit this and hope it will be OK. The whole crank assembly including pistons, rods, etc should be stripped out of the engine and sent for balancing requesting zero balance. This will involve removing material from the crank. As previously mentioned, this isn't a bolt on replacement item. It's not a disclaimer from the vendor, but a simple requirement for this to work on the I5 engine.
Comment
-
To balance your engine it needs to be totaly stripped down. To get it out, stripped down, find someone to balance it, re assemble (with new rings and bearings and what not) get it back inand running within a week is stretching it a bit i would think...
Comment
-
Originally posted by SteveH View PostWhat's wrong with your standard front pulley? I'd keep it standard for your trip and get this done after.
another option is buy another standard aby damper, is this bolt on without balancing? N take this for trip.
Or send mine off for repair, anyone know any specialists? Worth it?
Comment
Comment