My s2 avant STEP 1

[A80Avant]

Thats a good observation Vas. Im changing the MFTS tomorrow along with a new adj. intake cam.
Plugging the computer to the ecu it reads alot less water temperature than the inboard gauge live, so im guessing its the new non-oem MFTS. Cables seem good, but will know for sure tomorrow after the change.

I also dont know any more what to do with my boost control as im going on the dyno again (and I now have to possibillity to correct it as its the final dynoing).
My tuner opted for mapping without the 4port mac valve and mounted a massive bleedvalve instead as we were not able to go lower any more than 1,6 bar initally with the mac valve. So bleedvalve it was, and it worked quite good except for the fuelpump and retarded(!) timing.
My dilemma is that I want to do as my tuner says, but I fear that I might miss a bit of drivability/durability when im not running the mac valve.
So what to do? -Is there really any big gains running a macvalve vs a bleedvalve?
My initial idea for buying the 4 port valve was to get better spool, control boost better(?) and engine durability, but I dont know any more if that is its perks or not, or if a bleedvalve does the same job anyway?
Any inputs or thoughts on that? Now im just running boost on the spring which is 1 bar, mac valve is off, and so is the bleedvalve.

The centre caps is now on, but I think it was more 'bully' to dont have them mounted. I'll give it some time to decide.

I have a 4 port mac valve but i still use the 3 port one controlling top and bottom chamber without issues. I even have a stiffer spring and i have just a lower DC on the boost control settings. It makes me wonder if all the issues with the mac valves are wrong fitment or inability of the ECU to properly control them. You have to set the hardware settings properly as well otherwise you may not be allowing the valve to fully open or close while operating

[Audiboys4]

I would have asked KRB Anders. Its basically the same valve as Autronics own, for the 4 valve thing. Guess he can tell you what settings works with the ECU ?

[AndersS2]

Best looking S2 Avant... ever! :O

wheels + colour is just amazing.

Thanks Avantus

I have a 4 port mac valve but i still use the 3 port one controlling top and bottom chamber without issues. I even have a stiffer spring and i have just a lower DC on the boost control settings. It makes me wonder if all the issues with the mac valves are wrong fitment or inability of the ECU to properly control them. You have to set the hardware settings properly as well otherwise you may not be allowing the valve to fully open or close while operating

Why do you use the 3 port over the 4 port?
-My problem, as you say, might be wrong fitment by me, as I just followed the turbosmart 4 port valve fitment guide in the mac valve thread on here. I dont know if port 1 is the same as port 1 on the scheme, port 2 is port 2 etc, so I just hooked it up as the others had done.
With the mac valve fitted, how did it perform on your car Vasilis? Better spool? more stable boost curve?

I would have asked KRB Anders. Its basically the same valve as Autronics own, for the 4 valve thing. Guess he can tell you what settings works with the ECU ?

I guess he has know-how, but I dont want to commit to anything with him.


Anyways, changed the MFTS, and as stated before on the forum, that was the fault. Now its showing stable on 90c + 2 on idle instead of 105c or -3 marks from 120c. I haven't driven it on the road after the change but comparing the cooling characteristics from the old sensor in speed, it will fall onto ~90c in normal cruisingspeed. Will hook up the computer on a later date to post the idle temp from the sensor.
Thanks again all, for the knowledge you post on this great forum which lead to solve the mysteries!

I also got hold of a new intake cam and I will be sending it off for a check and polish. Im not entirely sure on the cam itself, but I think it is an AAN cam, and its supposed to be one aswell. PNR is "034 AM 785 B| Mon 3". Did a search and 034 AM came up as AAN. Can someone confirm?

Also had a blast on the road today. Cruising along in a tunnel, and suddenly a souped up b5 s4 (darkblue w/ antracit wheels aswell!!) turned up, so we had a blast driving past each other on the highway. Pulling hard in the tunnels, making so much nice engine sounds. It was some speeding I guess, but what to expect from a freighttrain as these ols audis are. I laughed so hard I almost ran off the road after the tunnelsessions, and I like that the s2 brings back the huge smile again. Priceless. Now I need more boost as 1 bar is getting old

Thanks to breitling bringing me the new MFTS! Awesome service from that guy.

Picture-o-rama time. Only had the iphone today so sorry for the bad quality.

1. New cam, bleedvalve, MFTS and adjustable sprocket ready.


2. Close up of new MFTS which shows the right temprature. This has replaced the one with "germany" on it.(hansenmotorsport.no supplied)


3. Close up of the the old (but new) MFTS which shows wrong temprature. (bought from 034MS a few years back, dont know if they still sell this variant)


4. Can anyone confirm "785B|" ? AAN cam?



Now its Beertime!

[A80Avant]

In my case 3 port did the job right. Its much more robust from the stock n75 in my experience. Dosnt brake or leak as its not plastic. Most importantly though you know the hardware settings ie Hz of operation, you then set the PID parameters and judge the DC depending on connection method and spring rate of the wastegate spring.

If you followed the turbosmart advice then its unlikely the connection to be wrong unless you are looking the scheme upsidedown or something. However you must make sure the hardware settings are set properly before tuning DC to achieve boost

[AndersS2]

..Most importantly though you know the hardware settings ie Hz of operation, you then set the PID parameters and judge the DC depending on connection method and spring rate of the wastegate spring.

..you must make sure the hardware settings are set properly before tuning DC to achieve boost

This might be it as I do not know where to adjust the base settings of this in
Autronics ecucal. And I dont want to mess around not knowing what im doing. lol!
What is the hardware settings supposed to be before acheving boost? is it something I can plot with my limited ecu calibration knowledge?
So you did not record any performace gains fitting the mac valve?

[A80Avant]

Prefomance gains were faster and more stable boost throughout the rev range and easier to adjust.

In the ecu software you have you should be able to have some basic boost settings which would include the PWM frequency which i habe used 21Hz and then some kind of PID control for it. Really the PID is unique to every setup and its something your tuner should know how to adjust. It is that which will determin if boost will be reached accurately, without spikes or oscillations. If tuned too aggressive then you will get spikes. Too conservative a d you may never reach the boost required.

With the sumptoms you have sounds like the valve is not allowing the wastegate to bleed anything. Either a stuck wastegate will cause that or a poor working valve. Do you have a spare to check juat in case that one is a duff one?

[europeanme]

Lol, that have to be a tight fit with a bike in the coupe, as i've had my struggles with bikes in the avant boot!
Oh, wha model Tomac did you build for your wife? Shes lucky to get a custom buildt one!

Oh no! Im so sorry to hear that Mike. I know about two-three other local guys that lost bolts and other stuff aswell in the inlet with all bad results.
Thats pain I cannot imagine. I feel for you Mike, but remember to hang in there. You'll get there in the end.
Just look at me. Took only 5-6 years!
The centre caps is only forgotten in the shop. Must remember to fit them next time, and the seats stay as they are. Enough money throwed at it as is.

cheers

t was both wheels out and drop the seats down to fit in my coupe....I've not had bikes in the avant...yet....
it was a 2006 Eli.....and yeah custom built....gave me something to do while she was out working!!...

I'm thankfully it wasn't anything metallic....I realise it could have caused some damage but not as much as it might have...

[AndersS2]

..With the sumptoms you have sounds like the valve is not allowing the wastegate to bleed anything. Either a stuck wastegate will cause that or a poor working valve. Do you have a spare to check juat in case that one is a duff one?

I had the WG opened for inspection, and it works fine. So that leaves either a faulty mac-valve or just bad/standard settings? I have no spare valve for a doublecheck.

I got impressed on how much diffrence there was when I fitted the bleedvalve. It instantly picked up quicker in every way making the car much more snappier to drive, and Im curious on how much more diffrence there is from fitting a bleed to a mac-valve. If I get time enough I will try it out as I've read a bit in the autronic manual these days. Theres a big IF, and thats because 1: the car is out for sale, 2: I'm fitting a new adj. AAN intake -cam, 3: I might get happy enough with the bleedvalve fitted along with new cam and timeing. We'll see

I'm thankfully it wasn't anything metallic....I realise it could have caused some damage but not as much as it might have...

Im really glad to hear that mike. How are you coming along now, is it all taking care of?


Update - captains log, star date 040520131257
I have done a few miles on the car these days, and after a bit of milage the car would suddenly be difficult to start. Had a quick inspection underneath, and there the whole starter was loose, hanging on the last few threads on the bolt. Got it back together and now it starts like a charm again. Also got Aaronmatics carbon timebelt cover to fit, but that will not be fitted before the new cam combo is fitted.
Full MOT passed yesterday, not a single fault so now the car has been put up for sale

-Im really impressed after a tour I had the other day on some sunny b-roads, almost not a car in miles view, finally an oppertunity to test the clubsport chassi propperly.
Last time I had it on wheel allignment, I took the chance to modify the standard camber setting to 1,45 front and 1,25 rear - combined with these twisty, fine asphalted b-roads I had the time of my life! I have never driven a heavy car like this with that kind of handeling, turn in, braking, lowering height and not one issue whilst pushing it so hard. It feels quite stable at higher speeds original, but now its even more stable at higher speeds, whilst the added camber makes it very agile and fun to push once you turn the wheel. I find myself driving much more relaxed as I have much better control of the car instead of fighting it beeing uncontrollable accelerating, brakediving and rubbing as before. The brake combo works really well with the RS 365mm 8pots paird up with the S4 b7 300mm rears - No intense brakediving at all, just full controll on stopping the heavy wagon from high speeds into turn in, apex and exit.
Completing it all is the poly bushes in all joints, aluminium subframe mounts f/r and 034 MS engine and gearbox mounts along with rs2 farb and neuspeed rarb. They make quite a noise and resonance on cruising speeds, but once you start having fun, you forget it all as the smile just goes from ear to ear. The H&R Clubsport "Nurburgring" coilovers is damn fine for this heavy car. Stiff as hell on crossing tramtracks, speedbumps and roaddents, but once you start to push, it has full control on each wheel, and the rebound is perfectly tuned for fast b-roads sections w/ bumps and bruises. I havent rubbed it once running the ride height I have on it now, even though the fronts are adjusted all the way down. (in comparison I've tried regular H&R coils, KW coils, koni inserts and FK coils, and none comes close to these).
I did not think I would say it, as I only run 1,1 bar now, the car is more than quick enough to drive on twisty roads for me. I haven't measured but reading from the mappingsession printouts it should be around 300+ hp with matching torque. For autobahn fun you could get it up to 1,6-1,8 bar for 400+++ hp.
Last setup I had was supposed to be a "420 kit" - realisticly 350 or so, but its non compareable as it is a whole other engine now, much more breatheable and efficient. Also the "moon rocketlaunch" -mode once you go wot - is now gone.

Im just so happy over my creation, at only mere 300hp! haha, I never would have thought that I would think that is so quick, but it really is!
So thank you for this great forum which have given me all the ideas, feedback and help in needed times. You guys are much appreciated
Now stop costing me more money

Now its raining outside so no driving today

Ps, just missing some proper seats to finish it off with, as the original s2 seats is no fun for inspirational driving..

Funmachine -cockpitview:

[A80Avant]

Sorry. Did you say the car is out for sale? Or did I misread that?

[AndersS2]

You read correct Vas. Its out there, looking for a new owner.
Sad but true. I know Id regret it, but it have to be this way as I need a new apartment.

[A80Avant]

Its a shame. We have seen so many people taking years to perfect their beloved car only for someone else to enjoy it.

Hope it goes to a good owner

[europeanme]

Im really glad to hear that mike. How are you coming along now, is it all taking care of?


Full MOT passed yesterday, not a single fault so now the car has been put up for sale

Its on with Anders, thanks....

and your doing what now.... I am stunned but decisions have to be made....

hows that MTB behaving?

[lcsmith]

Best looking S2 Avant... ever! :O

wheels + colour is just amazing.

I think so too looks f..king awesome!!

[irishs2]

Indeed, its my hero car

[Error404]

Did you sell it in the end Anders?