I think the crank is strong enough.
I don't have a keyway on my front pulley, so locking the flywheel is the only real option anyway. Unless I have the sump off, and shove something between the crank and block.
S2 Restoration Options.
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Cheers dude
Is that a good idea locking the flywheel end? Surely I will be trying to twist the crank until the bolt loosens off? I think I will just fab a quick and nasty pulley holding tool to be safe.Last edited by Twenny Benson; 14 August 2011, 16:26.Leave a comment:
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Nice work.
For the crank, just lock it using a bar through the flywheel bolts.
I find the front pulley comes off easily using a 10' extension bar. Just make sure you hold the block steady while you're doing it.Leave a comment:
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Bit of an update.
I continued to strip down the motor, got the pistons out now I need to fab up a crank pulley locking tool to get the crank out. Then the block can go on the pile for cleaning. I use these folk, fairly local and do a cracking job http://www.paint-strip.co.uk/ I'm taking pretty much everything for dipping.


I've finally ordered the spit & supplied drawings for the brackets, should have that this week
. Before it goes on the spit I thought it wise to remove the worst of the seam sealer from the inside as I once its on the spit I won't be climbing inside! I also removed the front center seat mount's, they were doin me **** in and I don't need them anyway.



I exposed some bare metal so I zooshed over it all with some zinc weld through primer for now to ward of the tin worm. I will clean it all out again properly when I come to stitch it all, probably a go idea to remove the underseal first or it might just catch fire!




Collecting the shell from DJH next Saturday and should have everything I need to start pieceing the old girl back together by then, so some proper updates should follow soon.
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It still can be cheap just take your time you have your other car to drive as well
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Just thought! I have a load of OEM connectors from my butchered A4 loom, looking at the connectors they seem the same. I also know someone who has a load left over from his 2.7T build, think I've got the connectors covered, just need some crimps now & I think I could sort some out.
Good point about the immobiliser, hadn't really thought of that.
I can see where all this heading, I may as well just give in and accept its going to ruin me
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Might be worth getting hold of a aan loom as they are cheaper and just butchering it for the connectors you need if you can't source all new one's.
Another bonus about the 034 is if the ecu is in your other car or house the car can't be stolen.Leave a comment:
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Happy days, I know my local Audi parts man very well, I even get discounts now I buy that much. I will enquire about the wirst pins tomorrow, seems silly to re-use the original pins.
I will be after all the engine sensor connectors really, I will use the search to see what I can find.
I like the 034EFI now I've got to grips with it, the software could be better and there are a few little things that annoy me but I can work with that. It might not be the latest and greatest but its plenty capable for my requirements. I can drive the COP's directly from the ECU so it would eliminate the POS's, my ECU also has an uprated 4bar map sensor (absolute) and all the latest tricky bits. 034 Motorsport have just released a CAN-BUS EGT & EGO module for the ECU as well so thats another possibility. I know I would lose the stock driveability of the motronic but at least I can adjust and fine tune the map as when I need to change things which will save me having to pay through the nose for custom mapping everytime i need to change anything. I quite like the raw feeling you get from stand alone management so it makes sense really, especially if the stock ECU & loom are worth that much.Leave a comment:
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I changed the pins in my build, cheap from audi (surprise)Wow im surprised they can run that sort of power, I won't be going that far thats for sure so looks like they can stay then. Do people bother changing the wirst pins during a rebuild?
So just rods, bearings & a proper MLS headgasket, the one I took out was a fibre gasket I don't much like them! I will add some ARP main studs as there not stupid money. As for head work, I know just the man for this, nice CNC porting job FTW.
Now for my next dilemma, do I stay motronic or make up another 034EFI loom and share the ECU between the S2 & A4. It would only take a minute or two to swap between cars and few more minutes to load in the correct file. I can configure the files so that I would't run with the incorrect file loaded in either car. Selling the ECU & loom would free up some more much needed cash! I need all the help I can get right now. Does anyone know where I can find the connectors & crimps for the S2 other than stealership?
Arp's was around £110
Which connectors/crimps do you need, the engine bay one's? there are a few threads about stuff like them on here already with links.
If your happy with 034 then that would be a good option, selling the ecu/motronic should free up around £250 for the ecu and £150 for the engine bay loom (both the main section plus the smaller section that plugs in under the bonnet to the 2x big round plugs and if you can control a high output kit with the 034 then thats another bonus ditching the power output stages.Leave a comment:
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Wow im surprised they can run that sort of power, I won't be going that far thats for sure so looks like they can stay then. Do people bother changing the wirst pins during a rebuild?
So just rods, bearings & a proper MLS headgasket, the one I took out was a fibre gasket I don't much like them! I will add some ARP main studs as there not stupid money. As for head work, I know just the man for this, nice CNC porting job FTW.
Now for my next dilemma, do I stay motronic or make up another 034EFI loom and share the ECU between the S2 & A4. It would only take a minute or two to swap between cars and few more minutes to load in the correct file. I can configure the files so that I would't run with the incorrect file loaded in either car. Selling the ECU & loom would free up some more much needed cash! I need all the help I can get right now. Does anyone know where I can find the connectors & crimps for the S2 other than stealership?Leave a comment:
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pistons are good for around 850bhp, a couple of forum members have proved that, save your money and use it elsewhere
I'm just pondering various engine options and getting some ideas around cost, wondering if its worth going the whole hog and getting some forged pistons whilst in there, I know the ABY pistons are forged also but the materials are different from the likes of JE. Decisions, decisions

tbh inside the engine just change rods, bearings and headgasget, get some work done on the head i.e. port/polish etc and thats about all you need for decent power with these engines.Leave a comment:
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Rods - aronmatic
piston rings - jp/rwd19t (cheaper and better than audi)
also worth asking him about the bearings etc, rs2 bearings, arp head studs.
And no problem, if you think of anything else you need let me know. Be good to see the shell used to make something of it rather than crushed.
I'm just pondering various engine options and getting some ideas around cost, wondering if its worth going the whole hog and getting some forged pistons whilst in there, I know the ABY pistons are forged also but the materials are different from the likes of JE. Decisions, decisions
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Rods - aronmaticIm wondering if its worth chucking a set of fresh bearings, forged rods, compression drop my pistons & tighten it all with some ARP fasteners while its on the stand, should allow me to bolt on a big boys turbo down the line. Whats a set of new rings for ABY pistons cost, ball park?
piston rings - jp/rwd19t (cheaper and better than audi)
also worth asking him about the bearings etc, rs2 bearings, arp head studs.
And no problem, if you think of anything else you need let me know. Be good to see the shell used to make something of it rather than crushed.Leave a comment:
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I will check that link out, cheers dude. I was thinking a bit of an engine overhaul would be wise, especially if it gets flogged on the track. Regarding power goals i dont really have any, I just know that the day will come around quickly where i want to up the power and lower compression will increase MBT and allow more boost on normal fuel so it wont limit the potential, I've spoilt everything with that damn A4, the way it spools makes everything else I drive seem sedate or broken!Piston ring info, page 2 has some good info regarding quality.
Fresh bearings and rods/fasteners sounds good if you can do it now. Do you need to drop the compression for the power level you are aiming for?
I couldn't believe my luck, it was truly a god send really, can't thank him enough. But the plan is still to repair the original S2 shell, sounds stupid I know but you will see why
plus the fact on paper my shell is an S2 no matter what its made up from lol. It will also makes insurance a bit easier as it wont be a transplanted coupe, not that it would bother me in the slightest as it wouldn't be any different.
I can feel this project running away with itself already! I'm merely a passenger.Leave a comment:
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Haha, i had a feeling you'd take that shell off him
So whats the plan with it dude? Going to take the panels you need or just fit the ABY bits into it?Leave a comment:
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