S2 Restoration Options.

[Error404]

I loop some rope around the bottom of the sump at the back, due to the shape it sits in there nicely. There isn't really a rear lifting point I'd be happy using really, don't want 100kg hanging off the IM!

[Twenny Benson]

Gettin there fella, gettin there. She is resisting though, everything is manky rusted horribleness which is leading to many a smashed knuckle! Nature of the beast I guess.

I have been thinking of making a spit for it and I'm sure I would be glad I did, more google time required on that one me thinks. Anyone got any pics of home made spit's lol, keep it clean lads!

Any thoughts on the where the lifting eyes are on these engines? there is one obvious one at the front of the motor and I think the bracket for the throttle cable is the second, its properly beefy and has a hole in it!?! Far too meaty for the throttle cable.

[Error404]

Good work dude. Seeing as you have the space, I seriously recommend making a spit for the little piggie, will make stripping the underseal and welding LOADS easier that doing it on stands.
In retrospect I'd have done that for mine, but once i'd stripped it there wasn't enough room in the garage

[Twenny Benson]

Right then managed to get the rear end back together and shimmy it around on the driveway to position it better. So full hovercraft mode & all 4 arches emptied, drive shafts, prop shafts out and cracking on with the engine & gearbox removal.









Like the front end had exploded!



I have the next week off work so I'm hoping to spend a good few days stripping it down & making a start on the prep for welding. So I will keep the updates coming. The engine will be getting some love while its out as well, how far thats going to extend im not sure, so tempting!

Anyway. Am I right in thinking the throttle cable bracket on the IM is also the hoist hole?

[Twenny Benson]

if i was you i'd buy a cheap coupe quattro with a sound body and then drill out the spot welds and rob the panels you need off the donor car.
Once you've brushed off the underseal you'll that'd be reasonably straight forward, although a lot of work... depends how nice a job you want to make of it i guess dude
You're making good progress

I would tend to agree as my tin bashin skills leave alot to be desired, so I've been in touch with some Audi breakers and they reckon they can supply me rust free panels that have been removed sympathetically for very reasonable amounts of money, they even said they could supply floor pan sections for repair work, I just need to detail exactly what I need, got to be worth a shout.

Having looked around the car I can see already both rear quarters, rear outer arches, both front wings, driver side sill all need serious attention and I know there will be more & If a jobs worth doing then I will do it to the best of my ability, I guess the standard of the finish will all come down to money. I'm going to strip it down first and have a full assesment before splashing out on any panels i think just incase pretty much everything is rusting lol

We'll see what I'm up against when the underseal & engine are out. Think I need to move the car back a bit as well, not enough room in front to pull the motor, which means i need to chuck the rear suspension on just to move it then take it all off again

Getting there fella, getting there

[Error404]

if i was you i'd buy a cheap coupe quattro with a sound body and then drill out the spot welds and rob the panels you need off the donor car.
Once you've brushed off the underseal you'll that'd be reasonably straight forward, although a lot of work... depends how nice a job you want to make of it i guess dude
You're making good progress

[Twenny Benson]

Well I think its safe to say the fuel system had passed its sell by date, wasn't far from being a chariot of fire lol. Removal of the fuel tank was straight forward enough, thanks for the heads up Error404









Got the sucker out easy enough





Looking very sparce in there now



I can see this corner is going to be a problem child, i could put my fist through most of that "metal work" if I tried, the rot has spread through most of the rear panels so thats going to be fun.



I need to spend some time sorting through all the bits I've removed and Ebaying alot of stuff, try and get some pennies in the kitty for the bits I need to keep things progressing. Then crack on with the underseal removal.

[Twenny Benson]

You've been busy dude
Fuel tank is pretty straight forward.

Remove the fuel lines underneath first.
Then remove all the breather tank & other stuff on the right hand side of the rear hatch, and the breather hose thaty goes round the front of the tank to the rubber grommet underneath.
Tank cover is bolted on, remove those bolts, they hold the tank itself in too.
Filler cap grommet is held in by a wire clip, careful not to kink that when you take it out.
Then just lift the left side of the tank and angle it out. done.


Underseal - a big knotted wire brush is your friend. Use a grinder, you will burn out a power drill really quickly.. BTDT

Aye, I've been grafting, not so easy with a hangover though progress has been slow today and I put off the fuel tank till tomorrow, the fuel smell would have finished me off I think, just about got the bulkhead de-tarred though.

Thanks for the heads up on the tank removal, that will get done tomorrow. Just need to find more storage space now!

I have a load of those knotted wire wheels for the grinder so thats happy days, still not looking forward to it though, one because its a messy tedious job and two because of what I might find!

[Error404]

You've been busy dude
Fuel tank is pretty straight forward.

Remove the fuel lines underneath first.
Then remove all the breather tank & other stuff on the right hand side of the rear hatch, and the breather hose thaty goes round the front of the tank to the rubber grommet underneath.
Tank cover is bolted on, remove those bolts, they hold the tank itself in too.
Filler cap grommet is held in by a wire clip, careful not to kink that when you take it out.
Then just lift the left side of the tank and angle it out. done.


Underseal - a big knotted wire brush is your friend. Use a grinder, you will burn out a power drill really quickly.. BTDT

[Twenny Benson]

Bit of a thick head this morning but finally operation medusa is complete! Just need to pull the last few bits through the firewall when I get round to stripping the engine bay, what a relief.





I was struggling to remove the individual looms because of those pesky alarm fitters, they had wired some of the looms together! After stretching it out on the lawn it was much easier to work with. I have seperated the looms but will require repairing once I've removed the alarm, thats a job for a rainy day me thinks. Just a small amount of the tar matting left to remove on the bulkhead & in the doors and thats it all gone thank god, then I can weigh it and chuck it out. Dreading the underseal removal!

Right im off to get this bloody fuel tank out, anybody got any tips?

[Twenny Benson]

I will give Paul a shout when the time comes but 280 horse in the lighter weight S2 superleggera should be entertaining enough. I was also thinking of building a nice light weight 3" turbo back exhaust for it, im sure that would help a bit?

[bikerjim]

Cheers matey, its bloody back braking huddled under the dash. I have had a quick read of that schematic thingy before, think I might have to read it again to get my head round it! I'm sure it will make more sense to me now I've seen it all.

I have thought about these "homefries", what can be expected from a stock setup? Are there any recommended mods to go with it?

Paul is probably best to answer this question, but I think on an ABY stock setup your looking at a power hike to around 280bhp with a nice torque curve to go with it.

[Twenny Benson]

Talking about getting your head round it, wrap a towel around your steering column and tape it up. It's amazing that even though you know it's there you smash your head on it every 5 or 10 mins.

Oh and put the plastic trims back along the cill as them little spiky things have wrecked no end of my overalls and jabbed me in the ***** plenty of times

The threaded bruise on my noggin agrees with that

Those spiky jobbies were bolted on so I removed them and stored em away or did you mean the studs?

Also you will notice in between the steering rack and the fusebox/aux relay board is a piece of card that seperates these two, make sure that goes back in, i've seen the wiring get wrapped around the column nearly causing a accident and ripping the wiring out the back of the stalks/alarm.

I wondered where that came from! Kind of dropped out before I even noticed it, but thank you for the tip fella

Getting the steering column out of the rack was a complete tunc , I thought I was going to die

Old sofa cushions on the floor are a must

I have all this fun to look forward to along with all the other horrible, horrible jobs that are required, my backs feeling it all ready

[newsh]

Getting the steering column out of the rack was a complete tunc , I thought I was going to die

Old sofa cushions on the floor are a must

[djh]

Talking about getting your head round it, wrap a towel around your steering column and tape it up. It's amazing that even though you know it's there you smash your head on it every 5 or 10 mins.

Oh and put the plastic trims back along the cill as them little spiky things have wrecked no end of my overalls and jabbed me in the ***** plenty of times

Also you will notice in between the steering rack and the fusebox/aux relay board is a piece of card that seperates these two, make sure that goes back in, i've seen the wiring get wrapped around the column nearly causing a accident and ripping the wiring out the back of the stalks/alarm.