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Can you advise what wires need to be altered in the plugs as mentioned above, to make a MY 1997 pump "G" work ?
Any photos ?
Also did you get the gradual fade out interior light arrangement form a C4 to work, and if so how ?
Thanks.
I haven't documented it anywhere yet, just collected tons of information. Didn't took any pictures, but I'll be doing this swap again for friends Cabrio over this summer, then I'll take pictures of progress and finish my writeup
Light fadeout is standard option on 8L0 pumps and yes, it works on my car.
Originally posted by macspring
What springs and shocks are you using to get this stance ? Not detailed earlier in your thread.
Thanks.
Current setup is: standard shocks, -75mm KW springs on the front (they are for 5cyl, so it sits a bit higher), "have no idea about lowering" KAW springs at the back (I got them from my friend as they were too low for his liking and what's too low for others is just right for me ), R17 8J Boleros with 205/45 tyres and 20mm adapters all around. Using standard shocks for this kind of lowering is dumb idea and I do not recommend to do this. I'll be building coilovers soon
No major mods at this time, just finally found mint condition right side headlight reflector, bought Philips BlueVision Ultra bulbs and did headlight/foglight adjustment today so poor lighting issue is sorted now. Also rewired instrument cluster lighting to come up with ignition not with sidelights as original. Next on the list - 5x112 swap. Just need to buy brake disks for rear, bearings and pads for front and brake fluid. Oh and yes, need to get rid of 4x108 wheels and get some 5x112 ones
Yes, you remember correctly. One connector needs to be changed, wires in other two has to be rearranged, two new wires (speed signal and K line) and antenna has to be added. And yes, "G" is the pump with most options.
Here's part from my writeup with pump part numbers:
About window comfort closing/opening - I haven't done that yet. Window motors in 1997+ cars are completely different from B4 but maybe it's possible to make it work. I have to measure what happens at window output on pump when remote button is pressed.
Can you advise what wires need to be altered in the plugs as mentioned above, to make a MY 1997 pump "G" work ?
Any photos ?
Also did you get the gradual fade out interior light arrangement form a C4 to work, and if so how ?
If your car has central locking, there will be three wires (+12v, ground and one to CL pump) connected to vacuum actuator in drivers door. They are used to lock and unlock doors by pushing in or pulling out rod in front doors. They must be connected to button. I'll be taking off doorcard in next few days and take a picture of how it looks from inside.
Did you ever get to take a photo of these connections inside your door ?
As always, I had my camera with me but I didn't took any pictures, just these two - one while filling up before trip in the morning, other on our way home:
Very nice beach you have there at Pärnu, makes me want to go there again soon
BTW next week 13.06-15.06 there's VAG Oldschool meeting near Kilingi-Nõmme, Estonia. If everything will go as planned, I'll be there too.
First time when I installed front electric windows, I made wiring using this wiring diagram. Later I just got complete 4 electric window kit form another car. It's plug&play. You'll need wiring, motors, doorcards, relay, front door handles and buttons. Same with electric mirrors - wiring, mirrors and switch.
Oh and while I'm here, I can post those few updates since last time
Polyurethane bushings for front subframe and wishbones, modified/refurbished wishbones and sandblasted/powdercoated 26mm FARB with 25mm bushings
Polyurethane track rod end bushings
Closer to the ground
And for fun, test fit of BMW E90 wheels (I'll have 5x112 -> 5x120 adapters made up )
Tomorrow, Saturday 07.06 I'll be going to Baltic VW Festival in Pärnu, Estonia. Any Estonian members coming?
Can you tell me how did you mount the electric windows/mirrors ? I have an 80 dag dag but w/o electric mirrors/windows and i'm thinking of adding them but I don't know how to/where to start. What else do i need except the doorcard with the engine and stuff ? Any tips/schemes/suggestions are welcome. Thank you.
Yep, calipers and brackets are already powdercoated so I'll be using them till I get something that's worth swapping over once a year.
On the brakes subject - is there anything better I can use on the rear of FWD? Aluminum calipers from C5?
Almost. You have to swap over bottom frame and that's plug&play if both B series seats have height adjustment. Someone on here even made them foldable for Coupe. Yes, button is illuminated, but it's not supposed to be like that on 80. I took button from C3 200 (A8 D2 also has it). It has 5 pins instead of 2, so connector has to be changed too. Standard illumination is orange led but you can change it to whatever you want.
Thanks!
Only pictures I found:
As you can see, I used Bison spray glue, but it's kinda cr*p and hard to work with - you must spray on exact amount otherwise it will either not stick at all or leave stains. Now I'm using spray glue made by Ball&Young. I can check if I still have it and take a picture. It's way more "user friendly", easier to work with and nothing comes off.
I also used Bison Kit glue for headliner and pillar trims. Now I'm using glue called 88 for that purpose, with being cheaper as only reason.
I also did a set for my dads A6:
And many other doorcard sets, headliners and pillar trim sets for friends cars.
I took boot opening motor from B5 Passat tank flap, but there's the same motor on facelift B5 and C5 bootlids. I wired it to central locking pump, but I have new type pump that can control it. C4 till MY1997 has old type pump that doesn't support this. But you can wire it up with button anyway. Wiring is very simple - live +12v through push type button to motor. It needs ~ 1-2sec 12v impulse to work.
Currently I'm putting together brake calipers. I'll post some pictures later as I'm at work now.
I found it very hard to glue the frame back together properly, so on my S4 will try re-trimming without taking the thing apart. Thanks for the info.
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