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I have a few bits of general fab work that I might benefit from. One thing I am struggling to get sorted is my mil-spec u/j in the gearshift - wanted to get inner and outer end bushes machined for this (everything is drawn) - do you do any m/c work too?
__MDC__
Martin Cutting
aka Keeper of "The Teutonic Kitten"
It's not better than sex, but it runs it a close second.
I have a few bits of general fab work that I might benefit from. One thing I am struggling to get sorted is my mil-spec u/j in the gearshift - wanted to get inner and outer end bushes machined for this (everything is drawn) - do you do any m/c work too?
__MDC__
Yep I can get stuff machined, always happy to quote from drawings, what joints have you got ?
Mollart ones ?
You said that You could make intercoolers as well CR, I have been playing with thought of an intercooler wich has the inlet and outlet on the same side, (havent got the reverse IM) Then the air will cool for a longer time, and I can have a intercooler much bigger than the one I got now. Whats Your thoughts about that? or anyone else for that sake!
Regarding the catch tank I am very happy with the one that You describe, with the cyclone soulution, drain plug, oil filter, and AN nippels for hose connections. Havent thought about the bracket/installing yet, but as long it is possible to fit a clamp around it I can make it fit wherever I want. Must be decided after the engine has gone back in...
Hi, it is possible to do a double pass intercooler with both inlet and outlet on the same side, or a single pass with a long return pipe top or bottom if you prefer ?
All I would need are the space you have available to fit it in, the thickness core you would like and want size and orientation you want the inlet and outlet tubes ?
A picture of the front of your car with bumper removed and some dimensions would be helpfull too
Have a measure up, do me some sketches and we can work out a price
Cheers
Dom
Perfect Dom!!!!! My parking my car in the garage first thing in january, will take the bumper of and take pics, and I will contact You again, then we can discouss it further! I will write Your e.mail up, and contact You in the start of next Year!
The Ideal solution for an oil seperator is a cyclone, its far more efficient than plates
Its what I have done on this one, you introduce the crankcase vapour tangent to the side wall which causes it to carry on rotating and the oil drops out on the side walls.
The outlet to atmosphere/airbox/exhaust downpipe is central on top.
To improve the design further, which I will do for the S2 ones, a central tube is added, forcing the air down before it can vent out the top. this provides more surface area on the walls and prevents the vapour short circuiting straight out the vent.
There is then a drain out the bottom to the sump, below oil level
Hope this clarifies it
Cheers
Dom
I want one of those!
Cheers LHK
Leif-Helge
-91 S2 VEMS and Comp Turbo
-12 B** 530XD Touring "S2 parts transporter, and daily driver"
Right,
I`ve sent Audiman a PM to see if he already has a drawing or details for whats needed on an S2, so I`ll see what happens.
I`m off to The Alps again tomorrow to take Jane out there
But will be back next week, so I will sort a Design out then and get a GB thread going with all the details.
Wont take long to get it all sorted
Joint is Apex type, I'll let you know size when I've had a squint (I think it's a 14, ie 7/8). These are the ones with orange boots over them.
Everything is drawn including the mods to the shift rod. The timing of a couple of holes on the joint is important but fairly easy to sort. A little bit of 4130 tube is required as well as a bit of 4130 bar for the bushes (I can probably supply both).
Will have to chat soon geezer!
__MDC__
Martin Cutting
aka Keeper of "The Teutonic Kitten"
It's not better than sex, but it runs it a close second.
Joint is Apex type, I'll let you know size when I've had a squint (I think it's a 14, ie 7/8). These are the ones with orange boots over them.
Everything is drawn including the mods to the shift rod. The timing of a couple of holes on the joint is important but fairly easy to sort. A little bit of 4130 tube is required as well as a bit of 4130 bar for the bushes (I can probably supply both).
Will have to chat soon geezer!
__MDC__
OK mate,
Back in UK now....... with a Broken Scapula (Shoulder blade) so thats the end of my Snowboarding until middle of Feb
Will talk soon.
I am going to finalise the design for Tanks over the next week or so, I`ll post up when its ready and kick off production and start taking orders properly
Right,
I am going to do a thread in the Group Buy section.
Tanks are being ordered.
Same as the initial pics but with a swaged Drain tube on the bottom, and additional baffling inside
Those that want to drain to the sump can, those that dont, can fit a hose and bung.
Fixing will be via saddle brackets so you can secure with Cable ties wherever is most convenient.
3/4" tubes all swaged ends
COREY tell me how many you are going to want to anodise and I`ll make them seperately, otherwise the price goes up slightly on all of them, which doesnt suit everyone.
Should have them in in a week or so.
Please put a definate "Want one" in the Group buy thread if you do
Hi there !
As mentioned before, I'd like one of these in my engine bay BUT what will be required to fit it ? And is this a DIY job that'll take an hour or is it something fairly complicated ?
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(Shoulder blade) so thats the end of my Snowboarding until middle of Feb 
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