My Ocianic Blue Ur restoration

[Tractor Dave]

And I couldn't see this mark at all. A clean up and some engineering paint has made it much clearer.



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[Tractor Dave]

Anyone have a spare smaller subframe bush? Feb15898 is the Febi one. Everyone Seems to have sold out. I only need one.

[Tractor Dave]

I gave the clutch slave a flush with some new brake fluid. What can out was not pretty so I decided to strip it.


Fortunately the S2 rebuild kit I happened to have was a perfect fit. After a good clean out and new seal it's like new.


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[Tractor Dave]

New idler pulley arrived and was fitted.
This needs to be tapped into its housing using the central bush and not pulled in by the bolt.


Then I was able to fit the damper with a new bolt and fit the belt.
The timing marks are now much easier to see.




Then I pulled the plugs to make the engine easier to turn over. As it's sat for three years I put 10ml of redex in each cylinder to lubricate the bores and free up the rings.


Then turned the engine over a couple of times and double checked the timing marks. We are all good. I will torque up the damper bolt when the engine is in the car. Big boys toys required for that job.



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[Tractor Dave]

One of the air temp fitting holes thread had gone. I used a v coil insert. They are good quality.


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Fitted three of the four subframe bushes. I'm waiting for one more.


And the gearbox mounts which are new Meyle. New nuts and bolts of course.


And set the dizzy timing whilst engine is at tdc.




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[Tractor Dave]

Thanks to another kind forum member the last subframe bush arrived and was duly fitted.
Then onto to engine replacement.
I used a plumb line to get the engine in roughly the right spot.


Then lots of wiggling and swearing. It's a blinking tight fit!



And with the gearbox balanced on the jack, I quickly got the subframe up to take the weight. Phew.


I'd like to say it went smoothly but it was quite a challenge on my own and one fuel line got a little damaged between the gearbox mount and the body. Took most of the afternoon but it's in now.


And these bits also got cleaned before the postie arrived.



This was damaged and not easy to repair as the metal is so thin.




So I cut a little repair patch, set the mig as low as it would go and very carefully welded it on.



After a clean it looks presentable. It's strong now which is the main thing.


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[sal_s2]

Dave, do you have a pic of where the rear diff vacuum lines go through the floor into the car?

[Tractor Dave]

They go through the big seal under the tank.


At least they do on mine.


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[Tractor Dave]

Quite a lot of boring stuff to do now.
Torqued up all the subframe bolts and engine mounts.
Also got the big boys toys out for the crank bolt.


I wasn't happy how the gearbox mounts sat.


The cup washer was way off the bush. These are Meyle bushes. So I happened to have a pair of Febi ones so swapped them over.


Much better.

I fitted new gearbox linkage and mount ball.


But I'm not getting half the gears so will have to make some adjustments.

Starter motor fitted.


And the link coolant pipe which I got from another forum member.


Just been looking at the wiring loom that runs around the starter and alternator. It's not in a great shape so I've got some fixing to do.


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[newsh]

Definitely worth taking some time to make sure the starter and alternator wiring is good, well insulated and the support grommets are present and in good shape. One of the thick wires on mine rubbed through its insulation and was intermittently shorting to chassis, made for a very interesting midnight drive home down the M40 from Birmingham in a lightning storm!

[Tractor Dave]

Definitely worth taking some time to make sure the starter and alternator wiring is good, well insulated and the support grommets are present and in good shape. One of the thick wires on mine rubbed through its insulation and was intermittently shorting to chassis, made for a very interesting midnight drive home down the M40 from Birmingham in a lightning storm!

Thanks John. I don't suppose you have a pic of the support grommets

[newsh]

Thanks John. I don't suppose you have a pic of the support grommets

I'd like to say yes but after 5 minutes with my head under the front bumper and a few pics with my phone I have absolutely no grommets to show, so now I'm thinking the grommet bracket is an S2 thing, or if not it's gone missing from the UR during the rebuild. However my memory is not totally shot as the alternator wires are covered with new yellow heatproof fibreglass sleeving. Need to jack the car up and have a proper look at some point!

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks. I didn't have any in the parts box so you got me worried. My pics showed wires cable tied to oil cooler pipes. That can't be right

[newsh]

Thanks. I didn't have any in the parts box so you got me worried. My pics showed wires cable tied to oil cooler pipes. That can't be right

Actually I think that's how it's done but the trouble with that is what happens to the cooler pipes when they're old and go hairy.

[sal_s2]

They go through the big seal under the tank.


At least they do on mine.


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Thanks for that. I thought so but couldnt remember!