My Ocianic Blue Ur restoration

[newsh]

Wow, I thought you'd had a visitor. I genuinely didn't recognise it as yours off the lift.

Electric windows. First test, see if the motor 'clicks' when you push the button, if no, swap the switches over and try again.

If it is the switches (most likely) try blasting it out with electrical contact cleaner. If that doesn't work, the can be carefully dismantled and cleaned. If it's an ex.Smokers car, it's more likely to have dirt and ask buildup in there.

There's also a plug in the loom near the A pillar.

All this

Mine took a few goes to both work. I had to dismantle and clean contacts in both switches. The plugs for the switches needed cleaning too.
Shame it's a pain to remove the switch panel once the centre console is in!

[anthonys2]

Great job on the Ur you must be getting excited to take it out on its first journey

[Ian Simmonds]

Wow, I thought you’d had a visitor. I genuinely didn’t recognise it as yours off the lift.

Electric windows. First test, see if the motor ‘clicks’ when you push the button, if no, swap the switches over and try again.

If it is the switches (most likely) try blasting it out with electrical contact cleaner. If that doesn’t work, the can be carefully dismantled and cleaned. If it’s an ex.Smokers car, it’s more likely to have dirt and ask buildup in there.

There’s also a plug in the loom near the A pillar.

[Tractor Dave]

If the electric window used to work before you pulled it apart try tapping the motor and pressing the switch. It worked for me after mine had been parked up for years

Both motors were tested before re assembly and were good. It's probably just a loose connection. However, now it's all back together I'm not looking forward to adjusting the gear change

[sal_s2]

If the electric window used to work before you pulled it apart try tapping the motor and pressing the switch. It worked for me after mine had been parked up for years

[Tractor Dave]

Rolled her out.
All the lights are working. Nearside electric window is currently dead.
Brakes are very spongy and will need bleeding again. Main issue is that I have no reverse. I will need to re adjust the linkage. Got the dust off her though.



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[Tractor Dave]

Yes. I think the lock washer is good. Hopefully it's all working properly now.

Onto the horn. Fresh head and new plan. I had previously check continuity on everything using a multi meter. Everything tested good. When I jumped the horn relay they sounded so I knew that part of the circuit was good. With the ignition on, I now tested the voltage at the trigger pin on the relay. Bingo!



Only 2 volts. This suggested a dirty contact somewhere. The red multi pin plug under the fuse box carries this terminal. I pulled it off and scrubbed all the contacts. Contact grease applied and put back together. We now had 12 volts across the trigger terminals, but still no horn.


I connected a jumper from the connector under the column to a good earth and the horn sounded immediately. So, onto the horn button.


Took it apart (again) and cleaned everything up. Made sure everything was connecting properly and put back together again. Hurray! Horn is working.


So I had two problems. Dirty contacts under the fuse board and at the horn button meant I wasn't getting enough volts to trigger the relay and operate the horn. Phew.

Next job is to roll her out and test all the lights, wipers etc and give her a wash.
I dare not suggest an mot just yet as it will tempt fate.


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[Ian Simmonds]

Looks like hopefully you've got the right size lock washers. Certain on line retailers provide a slightly larger one, that doesn't sit flush in the recess. Not a problem until alignment for MOT, then it'll need the washers sorted out properly

[Tractor Dave]

I've moved on to something else for a day or so. The horn can wait!

Today was headlamp fitting time.
Before I fitted them, I wanted to sort the bonnet. It wasn't closing properly and was only holding on one catch pin. Both needed adjustment too.
This one was seized completely.

To remove you need. 30mm spanner and a 6mm spanner. It got soaked in penetration oil for a few hours then slowly gave way. It was disassembled and cleaned with new grease.
Same for the other side. After a few adjustments, the bonnet locks nicely, lines up with wing height and most importantly opens. Easy access to do this with headlamps out.
Then I needed to fix a couple of broken parts. My reflectors we re chromed by Rob (thanks). He also gave me the bits I needed to repair the adjusters.


Getting these little lock washers on is best done with a socket of the correct size and push down. You get the idea.


Then after all the bulbs were tested, we were good to go.


And all done.




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[Monkeymagic]

Test for continuity between column and chassis

[Tractor Dave]

Does the column need its own ground?

I can't see one. I think it gets it from where it bolts to the bulkhead.

[Monkeymagic]

Does the column need its own ground?

[Ian Simmonds]

Great work as ever Dave, the horn issue is a puzzle having looked through the wiring diagrams as you appear to have checked the whole circuit.

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks again to Ian Simmonds for finding me another rare hard to find Quattro part. He had a broken indicator and the terminal I needed was good.


So I finished off the bumper.


And fitted using the box method.


Now, any electrical wizards out there?
I'm still struggling to get my horn to work. The horns test good and if I jump the horn relay they sound. I've checked the wires into the fuse box to see if they are correctly fitted and I think I'm good. I have tried several different positions. The horn button is working and I have 12v at the connector that goes to the horn switch. I have ground from the centre of the steering wheel.
I have tried three known good horn relays. Fuse 3 (horn) is good.
Any suggestions?


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[Tractor Dave]

So over the weekend I've been fitting the front bumper.
I was missing the insert plates and couldn't find any so decided to get creative (again).
Using the bumper as a template, I cut some aluminium strip to size.


That went nicely and with stainless bolts pushed up from underneath and large stainless washers and nut's everything came together.


The washer hose had been blocked and most of the pipe missing.


But I had some knocking about (as you do).


I can't believe the number of bolts and screws on the bumper. I've replaced them all with stainless.
Then onto the middle section which holds the fogs and indicators.
One of the captive nuts had rusted out. I heated up a stainless nut and pushed it into the plastic whilst hot and it set in place.


Next the fog lights. The little screws that hold the lights together had rusted out.
I had to knock the captive nuts out.


Make a little space for a m4 nut using a spot weld drill (flat)


And used an Allen head. Came together really well.


Fitted with stainless screws.



I was just about to fit the nearside but notice a connector had broke off. My attempts to solder a tab on failed. Anyone have a spare?

Even a broken one. I just need to brass tab inside that connects with bulb.

While I was there I wanted to sort out the horrendous indicator wiring. Someone did a real bodge here! Both sides as well!!

And the actual bulb holders were in a poor condition. The Coupe I am breaking has much better waterproof connectors so I used those. They fit the indicator perfectly.


So, using heat shrink connectors I got it fixed.




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