I installed DO88 everywhere, it is quite okay. Think Roose motorsport is a bit better or maybe samco, but some say the samcos have bad fitment on s2s so not sure..
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Originally posted by newsh View PostMy car was a 3B, I did the pin swap on the loom and added the extra wires for 5 high output coils. This basically converts the loom to the same as the later ABY 5 coil setup.
The Maxxecu is then plug and play with the supplied adapter. I’m still running Audi trigger using the hall sensor in the dizzy body with a short cover on it and the flywheel sensor. You can convert to ABY style hall sensor with trigger wheel on the cam or fit a more up to date and more reliable (?) 60-2 trigger wheel to the crankshaft.
My car runs around 450 HP 610Nm on a GT3071 and is nice and torquey
https://www.jemo-motorsport.de/epage...ts/Zuendung-3B
and 5x
https://www.jemo-motorsport.de/epage...cts/ERA-880065
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Looks like it!
Google translate
description
Conversion kit from distributor ignition to single ignition
including all necessary cables
pre-assembled
Installation instructions
Suitable for 20V 3B engines!
Unless you intend to convert to 5 coils and run the car for a while before going for big power.
For the power you said you want to make you’ll need inlet and exhaust manifolds, big IC, big turbo, DP and exhaust. Engine refresh. Lower compression pistons or thicker head gasket.
You need to find out what bearings are in the motor and what head gasket. You need the RS2 type mains and big end shells and the metal head gasket, the 3B had a paper one.
It’s a long way from a 3B to 700hpLast edited by newsh; 12 August 2021, 08:34.
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Originally posted by newsh View PostLooks like it!
Not worth it if you’re replacing the whole loom though.
Unless you intend to convert to 5 coils and run the car for a while before going for big power.
For the power you said you want to make you’ll need inlet and exhaust manifolds, big IC, big turbo, DP and exhaust. Engine refresh. Lower compression pistons or thicker head gasket.
You need to find out what bearings are in the motor and what head gasket. You need the RS2 type mains and big end shells and the metal head gasket, the 3B had a paper one.
It’s a long way from a 3B to 700hp
I’m also planning on acquiring all the exterior parts and plan out the interior before tackling the ”power” part of the engine.
Unfortunately some parts of this car looks like utter garbage, and will need some major love and affection. Here comes the pictures as promisedYou do not have permission to view this gallery.
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Newsh pretty much said it. Compression ratio depends on the fuel you are running. If E85 is available in Sweden, I would consider running stock compression or even a little higher (stock advertised comp is 9.3:1 but I think it actually measures a little lower at 8.8:1).
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Originally posted by Antsa View PostAlso based on your pictures you have 7A cam cover. I think it needs a little machining to accept COP-style coilpacks. Just something to remember if you are planning the coil conversion
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Did some peeking around today, looking at how to redo the whole catch can thing!
The person who installed it previously, installed it between the flow from cam cover and the pressure regulating valve (as shown in the sheet below). I don’t know what function he thought it would fill
Does anyone with experience on the 3B engine have any tips as to how i should redo it?
Is it recommended to go with return to sump, or simply just having it breathe/flow out to wheel well, and emptying the gunk every so often?
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The car is back together now after installing all the new hoses, and removing the old ****** catch tank solution. I’ve decided to run it for a couple weeks to try and catch some issues before it goes down in parts.
The boost is now steady like a rock and no more leaking from the PCV.
I have noticed that i have terrible misfires on 3rd and 4th on WOT. Sometimes 2nd aswell, but not as often. Right now i have no idea what this could be or what i should attribute it to.
on another note, i’ve gotten a lead on a VERY exciting project that will most likely put this one on the shelf for the foreseeable future if it happens.
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If the misfire is like a complete cut out, this can be caused by a poor connection at the MAF, it can look good but it’s not!
Try giving it a clean with some good switch cleaner and a good old wiggle and plug-unplug a few times and see if it sorts the problem. If it cures it then you need to pop the pins out of the MAF connector one by one and either replace them with new ones or clean between the mating faces of the pin with very fine wet and dry soaked in switch cleaner.
Otherwise if it’s not the MAF connector it can be due to a boost leak that only happens at WOT. You’ll need to do a proper boost leak test by pressurising the whole intake system from a bung with a tyre valve in the MAF hose. If you’re still using the rubber PCV hoses they may burst so test them gently, they only need to deal with vacuum, then disconnect the PCV hose from the MAF hose and plug the hole before pressurising to 1Bar.
Lots of info on here on how to do it.
Other causes of bad misfire on a 3B will be plug leads breaking down, distributer slightly out of time.
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Originally posted by newsh View PostIf the misfire is like a complete cut out, this can be caused by a poor connection at the MAF, it can look good but it’s not!
Try giving it a clean with some good switch cleaner and a good old wiggle and plug-unplug a few times and see if it sorts the problem. If it cures it then you need to pop the pins out of the MAF connector one by one and either replace them with new ones or clean between the mating faces of the pin with very fine wet and dry soaked in switch cleaner.
Otherwise if it’s not the MAF connector it can be due to a boost leak that only happens at WOT. You’ll need to do a proper boost leak test by pressurising the whole intake system from a bung with a tyre valve in the MAF hose. If you’re still using the rubber PCV hoses they may burst so test them gently, they only need to deal with vacuum, then disconnect the PCV hose from the MAF hose and plug the hole before pressurising to 1Bar.
Lots of info on here on how to do it.
Other causes of bad misfire on a 3B will be plug leads breaking down, distributer slightly out of time.
The misfires are a series of very quick 5-6 losses of power, occurring during 1-2 seconds. After that it continues like it should on that gear.
when i dissasembled the intake system after i bought the car i also noticed the MAF was mounted the wrong way, but now it’s the right way....
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Have you got the right distributor rotor in the car? I can’t remember if we already had this conversation but it’s really important on the 3B that you have the correct rotor and the timing is spot on.
When it misfired, was there smoke from the exhaust?
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Originally posted by newsh View PostHave you got the right distributor rotor in the car? I can’t remember if we already had this conversation but it’s really important on the 3B that you have the correct rotor and the timing is spot on.
When it misfired, was there smoke from the exhaust?
Doesn't seem to throw any smoke when it misfires, not a noticeable increase anyways.
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Either way, a little general update, seems like the car is going down in parts sooner than i thought. I'll be looking to sell the majority of the 3B engine along with the gearbox, the seats, belts, intercooler, rad, fuel tank, turbo etc will all be for sale as well. Will do a separate thread about this.
I've found an already built but never started engine, along with a 01E 5-speed gearbox. Apparently it's a 3B block, with AAN cam cover with reverse IM, 7A cams, uprated rods and bolts, new gaskets all round and metal head gasket.
I'm going to pick those up this weekend. Started building a parts list, i'll list it here and if you have any suggestions or advice, please do tell!
Aiming for a street-able 550-600hp, running on E70-E85. I'm also future-proofing for bigger numbers, hence some of the choices i've made below.
MaxxEcu Race
60l Fuel cell w/ built in catch tank
2x E85 converted external Bosch 044 pumps
2x 100 micron fuel filters before pumps
2x full flow check valves
Fuel log to combine the two pumps flow
10 micron filter after pumps
New fuel pressure regulator
Nuke fuelrail
Nuke vacuum station
GFB, DV+ TMS DIVERTER VALVE
Stainless EM with T3/T4 turbo flange, 44m Tial WG and 5x EGT NPT
Precision 5862 or GTX3071R
Tons of AN fittings
A **** ton of PTFE Nylon hose
Injectors??? 550-600hp running on E85, not sure how big ones i need ( advice appreciated )
Uprated coils and plugs, what plugs are recommended for these applications?
Bigger intercooler
Bigger rad
Bigger oil cooler than installed today
that's what i can remember off the top of my head
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Originally posted by newsh View PostHave you got the right distributor rotor in the car? I can’t remember if we already had this conversation but it’s really important on the 3B that you have the correct rotor and the timing is spot on.
When it misfired, was there smoke from the exhaust?
Now for a different question, i've since removed the engine from the car, and started shopping parts for installing the new one. Upon doing this i realised that my loom is more rotten than i thought, hence i'm now on the hunt for someone to make me a custom one, or a different solution. If anyone got any ideas about this, please hit me up!
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