My Coupe project

[Tractor Dave]

Cheers Steve. I’m aiming for a good quality end result.

Made a start on the back end. Everything cleaned and soaked in penetrating oil.
Most of the bolts have been sprayed in under seal which is messy but has reduced the rust.
It’s going to be fun dropping the struts as the car is up on the lift and I can’t drop it as the gearbox is being held up by a ladder. I did intend to do the front first, then rear. I will have to climb into the boot somehow and see if I can get the strut top bolts undone.





The dif oil drain isn’t looking good.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bowie69]

Strut top bolts means dismantling the tweeting shelf/parcel shelf supports either side, or no access, sorry to be the bearer of bad news. There is a screw hidden behind the seat belt that holds it in place..... took me a while to find that one!

That drain plug won't come out.... just weld a big (M16?) bolt in there once on the bench and it should come out easily.

I have a refurbed difflock actuator guard I'd be willing to sell -looks like you need one... I made one out of 0.9mm stainless for my car so no longer needed, see my thread.

[Tractor Dave]

Cheers.
I will probably leave the rear struts then and do them after the front is back together. Or maybe fit a spare front subframe I have. Will think about it.
BTDT with the welded bolt in the dif. Worked very well last time.
Put the guard to one side for me then please. Thanks again. Advice always appreciated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bowie69]

Amazed you still have the brake shields!

[psiconauta911]

As I said in another thread you rock man, all that work!

I´ve read all your updates everyday and love the pictures... you do have a rust problem in your country, my car doesn´t have a spec of rust I feel lucky I live in a sunny country because I couldn´t tackle a job like that as you do! Respect!

[newsh]

As I said in another thread you rock man, all that work!

I´ve read all your updates everyday and love the pictures... you do have a rust problem in your country, my car doesn´t have a spec of rust I feel lucky I live in a sunny country because I couldn´t tackle a job like that as you do! Respect!

Salt on the UK roads most winters here in the south, not to mention cars that have spent time in Scotland!

[Tractor Dave]

Called over to see my tractor mechanic friend who has a very useful press.
Made light work of pressing out the wheel bearing’s.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RumJanek]

Hi, Dave
I seen you carrying project same as me ?
I have grid on the road even temp. is +3°C or little bit below ?
To better protect subframes from corrosion, I used Hammerite, not sure how much help, but everything was brushed by wire brush or angle grinder. This help a lot, I'll see next year...

Wysłane z mojego Redmi Note 8 Pro przy użyciu Tapatalka

[Tractor Dave]

I don't rate Hammerite. It's not as good as it was years ago. I like to use epoxy these days. The products by Bilt Hamber and Rust busters are very good and so is Novol Protect which I believe is made in Poland? I think it's cheaper there too!

[Tractor Dave]

And got the prop shaft off. The centre joint is sagging and I will need a new one. Haven’t properly inspected the other joints yet.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RumJanek]

Well, I was register little bit too late ?
And this time I had no time to check what is best for protection. May I make mistake, I don't know, good for this year, better hammerite then nothing, but if I doing job, I should think what I do to make this once, not come back again and strip car and clean this sh***t to make protection again ?
What can I say, I leave in house where we don't have garage, I converted small front garden into driveway and I working with my cars on it, not good place but better this then on the street, don't have all necessary tools, all the time it's something missing but I was not planned to strip and fix cars,, that why I do not collected my tools.
I hope I find right place here so I'll be learning from you guys and my projects will be better in the future due to... I love this, my wife hate this but I love classics cars and I never stop ?

Wysłane z mojego Redmi Note 8 Pro przy użyciu Tapatalka

[B5NUT]

And got the prop shaft off. The centre joint is sagging and I will need a new one. Haven’t properly inspected the other joints yet.

How is the backend looking any further problems, or is it much like the front?

[Tractor Dave]

How is the backend looking any further problems, or is it much like the front?

Not too bad. Arches are rust free. Rear tie rods both came off good and after a clean up will be good to go back on. I have ordered new ARB drop links and bushes etc. Rear subframe has surface rust but not too bad. Rear diff has been leaking so I will need to investigate. Fuel filter is hanging as all the rubber mounts have broken. All the fuel lines need replacing and fuel pump mount needs a clean up. Rear bumper mounts are both broken. All normal stuff really.
I can't see any major rust underneath which is always a bonus.

[Tractor Dave]

Has anyone found replacement dust covers that fit front ball joints? I can't find anything big enough.
Also for the rear ball joints?

[jp_paul]

Dave,

I was trawling t’interweb a few days back looking for rear tiebar boot covers and came across this site which had a good selection
https://bulsell.com/

I decided not to bother with tiebar boot covers in the end though as they’ve cleaned up well and seem in good order.