Pearl white coupe revival

[ottawa coupe]

So, no longer have an eta for starting...crank sensors get here tomorrow but my tps (eaten) arrives next wednesday and i haven't got shipment notification at all for the injectors.

So got on with more disassembly and investigation. Fenders came off today and i found a hole on the drivers side sill and soft spots on the passenger side. My hose says the usual suspects of the tail lights and drivers door window for leaks. Got some from the sunrooof too but that was a direct blast with the hose and i don't have a seal around the panel.

If i get the energy, i may switch gears and deal with the floor now as opposed to later for preservation purposes. Not gonna break out the cutting wheel and mig just yet for the holes i have found.

One thing i know that will come out soon and not go back in is AC. The condesor fins flake away if you look at them funny and i am unable to find parts for it anyways...

If there's a replacement seal for the steel roof panel out there, could someone please point be in the right direction? I can get the other holes sealed up but i have no leads on the seal.

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[steve briance]

Uk based which may not suit but, search for Highland quattro on Facebook forum. Only this week there was talk about those seals for sunroof. They are specifically for ur quattro but if they are the same (they sure look it) HQ reproduces them from tooling they had made.

[steve briance]

As for holes in the metalwork... If you have found a small hole, unfortunately it will be bigger than you think once its cleaned up. Don't park the cutting disc just yet, sadly it may well be needed. I had to rebuild the jacking points on my car a couple of years ago. Underseal damaged, water got in and under it...rust spread unseen between perfectly decent looking underseal.

Its great while its sound but the rubberised stuff is a pain once its breached.

[ottawa coupe]

I'm well versed in the nature of rot these days lol. Just finished a mk5 r32 racecar that had wifi sills on both sides with the thinnest metal i have ever welded in my life....it sucked. I know that once i start digging, thar be dragons lol. Trying to take it one small step at a time right now.

My plate is already very full and i needed this car like a hole in the head so once it's mobile, it's going on the back burner for the summer. In the fall i'll blow it apart completely and break out the cutting and welding tools with the hope of paint next summer.

Thanks for the heads up re the seal, will head over there and search.

Edit: got crank sensors today and have verified i have fuel and spark triggering now. So when i get my injectors and tps next wednesday, it SHOULD fire up nicely.

[ottawa coupe]

Well, this is frustrating.... dhl express lived up to its name and delivered my injectors today as opposed to wednesday next week...

So i popped them in and attempted to start annnnnnddddd

Nuttin.

I'm not entirely sure wtf is happening now. The led tester for the injectors flash while cranking. But only for a coupla seconds. Ignition is sparking continuously tho. Plugs are wet.

I have replaced injectors, coil, cap (thought i ordered a rotor too???), wires, plugs, Crank and knock sensors.

Fuel is present in the rails and seems to be in the cylinders.

To my mind, it should at least TRY to fire. Some pops here and there but i have none.

I have put the plug wires on the cap in the following order. 1,2,4,5,3. Plug 1 is on the forward most raised point on the cap (7 o'clock if you're lookin at it) and then i go clockwise from there. I believe that is correctcor.

when i am cranking, the tach reads approx 700rpm. I wondered if i got the crank sensors wrong so i swapped them, when i did that, nothing registered on tach and ignition/injection testers didn't flash. The crank sensors are meyle units sourced from spareto. i figured those would be better than chinesium that i can source here. Only thing i can think of there is to pull the sensors off my s6 and try but i don't really wanna mess with that car as it works beautifully these days lol.

my main confusion is why do the injectors seem to stop firing after a couple of seconds, if that?

Only things i can think of beyond this is mechanical timing and compression?

Edit: and this is now where we friggin are....

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Starting to regret this purchase a little bit???? Lolz

[ottawa coupe]

****....

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Let this be a lesson. Never trust when someone says it ran when it was parked without verifying timing for yourself.....

Tight spots when cranking by hand all the way..... damnit, i shoulda looked before i hooked up the battery.....

In search of a leakdown tester to see what the damage is....

Kinda throws everything in the air now....

[ottawa coupe]

Sigh, and cam gear keyway is broken too. So, next step is to go directly to pulling the head and i guess see just how screwed i am....

[steve briance]

Oh dear

Reading down the thread, i was wondering if the timing could have been 180deg out as that is possible to do of the marks aren't lined up properly (O on flywheel in line with gearbox window, cam pulley and crank pulley)

Sadly it seems your timing might now be in free style setting.

I had a narrow escape with my cam gear keyway failing (on an unknown donor engine i picked up) and don't forget to check the key on the crank pulley as well. They are a notorious spot for some DIY mechanics to destroy because they need to be VERY tight and the correct holding tool is not used...

Fingers crossed you got away with it and didn't cause any damage but who knows what state it was in when it was 'driven' to it's resting place

[Tractor Dave]

Not good. But all is not lost. I had this in my S2. Got away with nil damage to valves. Just needed new top and bottom pulleys. Also did a Rs2 replica engine where there was more damage (happened at speed) and after replacing all the intake valves and pulleys it was good.

[ottawa coupe]

Fingers crossed it's all minor damage. My buddy was saying that becaue it wasn't running thus no oil pressure, the lifters may not be pumped up so maybe there was some give and things could be ok.

Gonna clean up the shop today and mentally prepare myself lol. Tracking down a crank locking tool as well. Gotta get the crank gear off as there's a bunch of debris in the gear as well (maybe why it slipped??), go need to clean it out.

The 7a cam gear seems to be quite hard to find, can i use a vw 16v one (only marginally easier to find these days!) with a woodruff key?

[Tractor Dave]

Not sure about the 16v cam pulley. Audi Tradition had the 20v last time I looked.

[ottawa coupe]

We'll see shortly about the gear, my buddy has a box of 16v stuff in his barn... i suppose i could also "fix" the gear with my welder for the purposes of 10 seconds of run time (the philosophy of it's broken you can't break it any more lol) but lets not get that desparate just yet lol.

With more coffee this morning, the decision is pull the head and see what's what, if pooched, pull the engine and trans and stuff the lot into the corner till the fall.

[Tractor Dave]

Once your in there I would do it properly. Welding the pulley

[steve briance]

Interesting question about the 16v VW cam gear.

The 20v head is actually a longer version of the 16V VAG head and, its common for vw fans to use the tubular 20v 7A manifold cut down a little bit.

The head castings are very much the same, wonder if it extends to the cams and pulleys...

Just a quick thought about keyways and tapered shafts. It is the taper holds the pulley in position once the bolt is torqued down, the key keeps it in the right place and provides one of the all important timing reference marks. My donor engine had its keyway held on place with loctite when I took it apart, needless to say the loctite did nothing but, it was actually a complete running engine...


If you really don't want to spend more than necessary while working out if the engine runs, maybe try holding the pulley properly in the right place where your missing key would have put it and torque the bolt down?

Rough as hell and if you are going as far as removing the head and bottom crank pulley, i'd get a new cam pulley as well.

Ive possibly got one but its here in the uk and it's surely cheaper finding a local one than the cost of postage

[steve briance]

Golf 16v KR, 9A engines.

The cam pulley does look mighty similar...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313816716...mis&media=COPY

Get the vw part from your mate and hold them up against each other. Teeth count and width the same, bore size and taper the same and with an integral key a fit in your 7A shaft and you might just be good to go.