Machine Head Project

[S2central.net]

Heres the water rail template.

[S2central.net]

And another with it resting more or less in place... I've marked the new hole locations required. Shows 4 here but got a notion that one is already there.

[s2_bo]

Thanks for that pick Paul. Its good to know what machining would be required to convert a 7a to s2 spec.

It doest look to hard.

Good luck

[S2central.net]

The bit needing most accuracy is the new studs for the water rail... This template is perfect for lining up where the waterways need drilled in the head, but I think I'll partially bolt down a water rail to get better accuracy on the new stud holes.

I'll prolly go to a local machine shop for this bit - I don't even have a bench drill... And its umpteen years since I used a tap and die set to create the new stud threads !

[4WheelDrifter]

That looks like a handy tool Mark. I've not had any workshop time to make my template yet.

[Mark Halligan]

It doest look to hard.

Its not, bolt the plate to the head via the existing threaded holes on the plate to align it.

You need a 19.5mm drill bit for the water ports and a 5mm bit for the bolt holes (~16m deep), and then these are tapped with an M6 tap. Drilling was done using a cheap old bench drill.

Bit of time and care = perfect fit

[Mark Halligan]

By the way if you want to clean any carbon off of the head or out of the ports before getting in there with a burr or cartridge roll.

I've said it before......................Fairy Power Spray LOL

[audiman]

Paul just a note on those metal washers under the VSOS. I have built a few heads up now and noticed that they arent always fitted as the album suggests. I have seen 7A's with inlets only and also some ABY's with inlets only. Yet my 3B had all of them, and IIRC so did Ross's 3B head. They are just a hardened steel washer that prevents the valve spring seat "hammering" into the alloy. Fit all 20 IMO.

I also used GSF valve guides in my head, only needed to change the ex. ones as the inlets had virtually no wear.

@Stu, rememeber i said i thought i had a load?? I found them in the workshop this week!! I have a spare set of 9 valve guides and 2 piston rings sets LOL

[audiman]

BBQ cleaner also works very well

[4WheelDrifter]

@Stu, rememeber i said i thought i had a load?? I found them in the workshop this week!! I have a spare set of 9 valve guides and 2 piston rings sets LOL

Too late.

@ Paul


I also recommend a pair of marigolds and a toothbrush to go with that.

[terrybullwon]

Too late.

@ Paul


I also recommend a pair of marigolds and a toothbrush to go with that.

(Shakes Head)

Very corrosive, we use this in the kitchen and its eating our aluminium pans

[4WheelDrifter]

(Shakes Head)

Very corrosive, we use this in the kitchen and its eating our aluminium pans

Yeah. I don't doubt it. It's evil stuff and wouldn't recommend cleaning your cylinder every week with it, hence the need for marigolds. Breathing apparatus might be a good idea too in a confined place. I can't believe it's made for use in the kitchen really.

[terrybullwon]

Yeah. I don't doubt it. It's evil stuff and wouldn't recommend cleaning your cylinder every week with it, hence the need for marigolds. Breathing apparatus might be a good idea too in a confined place. I can't believe it's made for use in the kitchen really.

Bit mad eh

I bet it does a bloody good job, i have used a solution as mark said of fairy and water this too is also alittle savage

[Flat on my back]

Now confused...

They are actually marked 027 611D which misses the middle three digits from the part number - I need 027 109 611B of course...

Just looked at the ones from my 7A head and they are 'non sodium' . Thought the 7A had them fitted?...or so my Bentley says?

So which engine did get them, 3B, ABY, ADU...etc?

Thanks.

[audiman]

turbo heads had the sodium valves